Bullet proof bottom end?
 

So a 4g can take a pounding understood...
I currently have all bolt on's and tune (signature).

Question..
Im heading to Iraq in a week...+ or- and while im gone my brother is taking my car to CBRD to undergo further mods. Such as BR stage 3 head..BBK Full...Clutch..Re-tune..Injecors(maybe S2's)..(S1's are not what i thought)
So i want to spend 8k while im over there or at least thats the forecasted budget but i keep thinking of building the bottom..still a 2.0 but with better parts via Buschur. Then again thats 3,000+...so if you were you were spending 8,000 would you build the bottom end up (knowing BBK is not an FP Red but for safety /peace of mind):rolleyes:
Thanks guys.

Sorry don't know the answer to your question. But you have the same exect setup I'm going for. Can you tell me what power you are making?

Thanks

I pulled 315 w/o cams and test pipe on CBRD (winter)
I pulled 308 w/ cams and test pipe on CBRD (Humid Summer Day)

All in all 325-330(same day as winter pulls)

anyone?

cant imagine youd need a built bottom end with a bbk (assuming pump gas). but if youre going with a buschur head, why not a buschur 2.0 bottom end.

better yet, if you already have an a pointment, why not ask chad. he will tell you what you do/dont need without spending money for the hell of it

i would do it just to be safe

no expert...but at your stage you probably dont need to upgrade the head. most people suggest building the bottom end 1st, but with your mods you probably don't need it, maybe rod bolts would be a good safety precaution. Also, I'd talk to cbrd, im sure they can help you.

I did talk to them with the original plan of a BBK and cams..the 1st thing that Chad said was a head and exhaust manifold...no mention of bottom end build up. But I want that warm and fuzzy with the bottom as well. I know 4g's on 91/93 or even race gas put out STUPID numbers on the rollers with stock bottom ends...same goes for the 4B11's.

This is only My Opinion. But with that turbo don't waste your money on the bottom end yet. Theres a reason why Chad wouldn't have mentioned anything about the bottom end, don't quote me on this but i believe your safe with 400whp+/- on a stock bottom end.

**** there's guys running 500whp+ on a stock bottom end, but i wouldn't recomend it.

You want piece of mind, take it to a good tuner (as you are). It's been said many times before, but it's all in the tune

if you're not making anywhere near 500 then skip the bottom end. it all depends on what your power goal is.

Right vtrice, think about your long term goal. Right now I have forged pistons on Howard (1000hp rated) rods with race bearings, dual valve springs, and head reworked, on the stock 8 turbo. Why you ask? Because when it came time to do the head work I knew what I wanted long term and this way since the head was off the car it was cheaper to do now than to do it again later. Think long term, that's my advice.

It may not be a bad idea. If you have the extra cash then I say go for it. I have been seeing a lot of smaller turbo cars throwing rods. The reason being that they deliver a lot of torque. Also if you ever plan to throw in some E85 your torque will be through the roof. Although I have yet to see a BBK car blow a motor I think you are better off safe than sorry.

- Manley I Beams
- JE/Mahle/etc. Pistons
- Bigger Cams
- Exedy / Tilton Twin
- HTA 35R
- Shearer Manifold
- Double Pumper
- ID2000 injectors

and tune it on E85 and your out of money...then buy a shep trans and do some more head work.

On my 11.36sec@132mph@3360lbs with broken 3rd gear pumpgas car I still have a stock uported head. Just cossie cams, springs, retainers and l19 head studs. Mind you that I rev that thing to 9000 rpm no problem.

I would build the bottom end so it can hold everything that a stock frame turbo can throw at it and call it a day.

I understand that improving efficiency can give you more power but usually motors go because of the bottom end...

My parts combo is wiseco hd1400, carrillo rods with carr bolts, acl bearings everything, Buschur balance shaft delete, arp main studs, arp L19 head studs with stock head gasket...

The motor will be fine- I have 385whp/373 wtq on a super low-reading mustang at 4500ft elevation (full bolt-ons, methanol, ported BBK full turbo at 28.5 psi)... I worry more about what the torque may do to my MR 6 speed tranny over time... the tune is whats most important, and without E-85/meth you wont be over 400wtq/whp on CBRD's Mustang dyno, I would trust them to take good care of you and your car.