HELP, keeps shutting off (video clip)
 

I need help , My Evo ix was tuned a few months back the car iddled fine even with the AC on however, the clutch did rattle a little but I knew it was the twin disc that rattles a little due to the floating plates. Lately the car has been iddling really rough on a cold start ,usually after the car warms up a little it starts to iddle normal , today I wanted to drive the car when I started the car I had to try more than 3 times for it to fire up , after the car fire up I immediately noticed the car was shaking really bad and also heard a loud CLUNK sound coming from the front left end of the car where the transmision is . I shutted the car off checked the sparkplugs, AIR FLOW METER, injector plugs, vacum lines , everything seems to be in good working order but the car still iddles terrible and has a loud clunk sound . I started the car one more time and drove the car while I'm crusing car is smooth but the problem starts when I come to a complete stop the car starts to shake and the clunk sounds come back untill it eventually shuts off . I have a brand new odyssey battery , new spartech cop ignition new spark plugs gapped at 23 for e85 the car was fine it's started acting up 3 weeks ago and it kept getting worst untill today that it's gotten to the point Ii\ can't even have the car iddle without shutting off also, injector scaling is right on the money If anyone can help I will appreciate it .

HERE IS THE VID WHERE YOU CAN ALSO HEAR THE CLUNKING SOUND

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OaKnA29ih5g

sounds like a bad IAC.

How can I check if it's bad?

You can remove it and clean it and see if it gets better. You can try and hook up a scan tool and see if you can get actual values on it and compare to a good value.

Im going to hook the car up to evo scan right now to see if its throwing some codes

I hooked up the car to evoscan, these codes below were immediately shown

P0340 Crankshaft Position Sensor circuit.
P0335 Crankshaft Position Sensor circuit.

bad crankshaft position sensor? check the wiring on it, and check if its getting power ok. Basically checking the obvious. You might try unplugging it plugging it in to reset it. It sounds like in the end you have a bad ckp sensor though.

so let me get this straight the car drives fine?, when the clutch is pushed in the car does not want to die? Does the clunking noise happen only in idle and sound like somethings rattling around in there??

Exactly , the car drives fine when it's above 3000 rpm. Let's say the car is in second gear at 3300 rpms and i shift to 3 car still rides smooth even when i press and realease the clutch . In the other hand, when the car is at iddle it shuts down /shakes/has a clunking noise if feels like the a rollescoster ride that how hard and loud the clunking sounds is.

pmd you

gl man

thanks man , I really hope I can find out what it is soon , I'm having th car checked out this week , I hope is nothing that serious

Built motor?

What crank is in it?

stock bottom end

normally when you see the cam and crank codes together you jumped timing. Check belt tension and the timing marks

I will check that right naway thanks for the help

timing is fine , I'm thinking is the sensor?

usually bad CKP will not allow car to start?

how many wires is coming out of our CKP's? i dont know if its a VRS or Hall-effect type sensor.. 2 would be VRS 3 or more will be Hall-effect or modified halleffect.

tomorrow I'm going to swap the cam sensor to see if it gets better, I was told by many experienced people that a bad crankshaft sensor is not the case because when the crankshaft sensor is broken the car does not start. in the other hand, the cam sensor mos likely the culprit will update this thread tomorrow. I'm still taking advices from any one

I changed the cams sensor and nothing , I have no clue what could it be ?anyone can give me a clue what can I check next

Take it Juanito or Greg at MGW.

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...down-stop.html

Timing belt tensioner maybe?

yes man I have an appointment with juanito as soon as he's donemoving to his new shop . bu never the less, I wll check the TB for leaks this can really be anything . When the car was tuned it would iddle perfect.

The throttle body shaft seal won't act like that all it does is mess with your throttle response,loss like 100 rpm of spool,and sometimes the plate will stick mine is leaking like a mother and I still made 500 whp on a uncorrected mustang.I would check the timing belt then inspect everything else while your there did you check the iac motor??

I checked the iac and it looks fine it can be messed up but i dont have another one to swap them out and see if it's better.even though i have an appointment to have the car checked next week I want to keep checking everything i can, maybe i can find the problem before droping it at the shop

is it possibly the front O2 sensor?

n/m i just listened to your video and it doesn't sound like mine.

out of curiousity do you have access to a scan tool and read the actual values of your ect sensor?

I bet you it's something stupid don't stress it will help you short it out..

I hope is something minor, i have a feeling it's a tps sensor

I don't have the tool but i can rent/buy/barrow it from someone ?

Update: I took out the iac sensor cleaned it real good and it iddles good but as soon as the Air/c starts up the immeaditely stalls out really bad and ahuta off At least i made little progress so far

Update , I have found the problem . the car was idling bad because on top of the throttle body there is a screw that regulates the rpm's it happened to be mines was really low . I just got a screwdriver and turned it clockwise and iddle immeadiately went up so the car doesn't stall at all . too bad I wasted all this money on sensors thanks to everyone who tried to help