Help me make a shopping list for easy power from my stock IX
 

So I've been driving at bone stock for over a year now and I think it's finally time to start cranking up the juice. So if you were doing it over again, what would you do to get some easy power? I can do the small things myself, but I don't have a good workspace, so big jobs will go to one of the local shops (Works, SpeedElement, GST). I'm kinda tired of breaking my back working on cars, so I'm looking for reliable ready-to-go solutions.

I don't daily drive my car, it's just a weekend cruiser and (very) occasional track day car.

I like the power packages that Buschur and Works offer... at least based on the marketing copy. I'm thinking I want to keep it under $5000 or so, and I'd like to stay on the stock turbo. I'm not looking for anything outrageous, 350whp or so should be fine.

So, I figure I need...
- clutch (ACT HDSD should be enough right? Both ACT and Exedy seem to have complaints on this forum)
- LICP
- o2 housing
- Walbro 255
- injectors?
- some kind of exhaust - I really really want something quiet, maybe works stealth?
- MBC or boost pill or something
- tune
- ported exhaust manifold?
- wideband
- some kind of intake solution... drop in should be enough?
- do I need cams to get to 350?
- spoolinup COPs?

I'm in California, so I'm stuck with 91 octane. Also I'd really like to pass CA smog legitimately. It'd be friggin awesome if I could make reasonably good power on the stock exhaust.

I figure I'll do this all at the same time as my 60k service, so there'll be a new timing belt and spark plugs and whatnot.

Is there anything obvious I'm missing?

edit:
yes, I've looked at
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-100-time.html
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...g-dummies.html

I figured I'd try to get some advice on my specific situation

-You shouldn't need a new clutch
-In my opinion you don't really need injectors either
-Don't really need the spoolinup COP either

The rest of your mod list looks good. I would throw in a FMIC though.

Thanks. I only mention the spoolinups because they claim to make to improve idle and partial throttle jerk and that kind of stuff. Those things are kind of annoying about the stock evo.

I've never run 91oct since I'm on the east coast, but on 91 with a good tune and a friendly dyno
I think you could have a very good car with intake/exhaust/02 housing/fmic/licp and a fuel pump.

On 93 pump I make 350whp and 330 ft lbs consistently on just shy of 24 psi using virtual dyno with the above mods minus an o2 housing. Mivec does wonders.

I picked up a spark tech for the exact reasons you mentioned and definitely noticed a nice change in drivability, that combined with low end portion of a jam mivec map and my car is very good off boost around town.

No.

Hello and grats on wanting to start modding your car!

I'm local and we've got a much more local forum if you want to attend meets etc:

http://evoempire.org/community/

You won't hit 350whp if you keep the car CARB legal, keep that in mind.

:fire:

Good to know in California especially, they gave me a ticket for my exhaust literally at the border on my way down to AZ... {thumbdwn}

You mean it won't be "officially" CARB legal (like certified with an E.O number) or you mean it won't pass a normal smog check?

I've already played that game, no fun.

It was my own fault for having a bright yellow integra and a ricer greddy exhaust.

Never again! All my mods are stealth in appearance... like this:

http://store.worksmotorsports.com/v/...140.502-2T.jpg

http://store.worksmotorsports.com/WO..._p/140.502.htm

Can anyone offer some insight on why Buschur and Works' power package kits come with cams, yet only deliver 350-ish crank HP?

List what's in the various kits and I can give you a decent breakdown on a loose power-to-part ratio.

The WORKS TR-340 includes:
-WORKS Brain Flash P2 ECU upgrade properly tuned for optimum drivability and performance
-WORKS High-Flow drop-in air filter
-WORKS Aperture bored throttle body
-WORKS 269 Power Cams* (Cosworth cams* for EVO IX applications)
-WORKS Exhale 76mm thermal coated DP (Downpipe)
-WORKS Exhale 76mm resonated IP (Intermediate Pipe)
-WORKS Exhale 76mm ABM (Axle Back Muffler)
Claims 360hp on an Evo IX... I'm pretty sure this is crank hp, but I can't remember where I read that

Buschur Pure Power Package:
-Your choice of Cam Shafts
-BR Air Filter Kit
-BR Full 3" Turboback exhaust
-BR Inline Manual Boost Controller
-Walbro 255lph fuel pump
-ECU Reflash
They say "This package will produce a solid 330+whp on an AWD dyno"

Getting the ECU tuned would be #1 on my list, a more efficiently controlled engine will benefit you in more ways than one.

Is E85 an option at all? 350 will be no problem at all if so. Without it, you would likely need cams I think. Do CA emissions have a sniff test or just an ODBII plugin? If it's just the plugin, no problem at all. If you're worried about police attention, you might want to look for intakes/exhausts that are CARB certified. There are a few I think,

i have

3" downpipe, resonated test pipe, 3" catback
LICP
hallman MBC
perrin intake kit (filter and tube)

i made 340whp/300ft-lb on 92 octane, just to give a frame of reference

Well, E85 seems like a pain in the ass just because of your limited fueling stations. I know there' that one awesome solution that detects exactly how much ethanol is in your gas and adjusts accordingly, but that was pretty expensive last I remember.

Since Evos are AWD there's a sniff test that's NOT on the dyno rollers (i.e. just idle and rev it up a bit).

Thanks, that's pretty helpful actually. :)

On 93, I VDR'd 350whp with just a TBE (including O2 housing and test pipe), cone filter, and an EBC tuned for 23 psi.

I assume those staged upgrades just include a generic reflash, instead of a tune for your specific car? If so, that would probably be part of why they need cams to make it to 350whp. Also, they may be calculating their claimed power based on Mustang/low-reading dynos. I'm personally not a fan of staged upgrades. I'm not very brand loyal and I can usually piece together the same items for less by knowing where to splurge and where to save.

So where should I splurge and where should I save? ;)

To put this into perspective, on 91 with a TBE, drop in filter and 24 psi I tuned 291whp on dyno dynamics dynometer.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v5...o/2dde128e.jpg

i Have AMS downpipe
AMS test pipe
AMS catback
Fujita intake
Fujita UICP
ETS LICP
Walbro 255
FIC 1050cc
boost pill
on stock IX turbo

I made 328 whp 301 trq on 91 <-----I think it is a little low?

I am plannin on gettin GSC s2, Megan o2 housing, and ETS FMIC

I am trying to get to 350 whp and 400whp on e85.

Just another frame of reference as well

hope that helps

Here's my compilation:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ne-budget.html

I'm planning on doing a little splurging since I'm getting severance pay and a signing bonus and while having zero employment downtime.

if you're running 91 aiming for 350whp i'd be getting most bolt-ons. you shouldn't need cams to reach 350whp on a 9, it's a pretty easily attainable number. my readings were from a dynojet, just FYI

Thanks for the reference points guys, they do help. It does seem like people are all over the map though.

What do you think I can expect with TBE, cams, LICP, drop in filter, and a tune?

since it's not a DD you may not care but you should be aware that cams will likely introduce a little new vibration.

mine's a DD so this is important to me.

That's why I've ended up just planning to do:

Amsoil/Vibrant Filter (no need to monkey with oiling my filter, cleaning is very easy, this I already did, it sounds cool as hell and maybe feels a little faster)

3" TBE (Tanabe Medalion Touring, combo of understated bling and not too loud)

MBC (forge is tested to be one of the best, simple, effective)

FMIC + U & L Pipes (all ETS, a little bling plus a little zing)

Fuel Pump

Wideband

Later on I'm thinking injectors, S2s with springs/retainers, head studs, and O2 housing. but that's a ways down the road.

not to go in a completly different solution because it took me awhile to really understand this concept...

With you being in California and as strict as they are you could look at a different solution..

Why not go with some power mods and then go with looking for some weight savings?! When i get my next evo, I am looking at going with lightweight vs higher power.

buschur / awd / ams / ets - they all offer light weight parts that help with rotational mass. I can't remember the formula for every lb you lose = so much horsepower but i drove my friends evo that has basic mods but a lot of light weight parts and it felt so much different from mine.

anyways, just a thought

I would also look at a buschur racing ported manifold and intake would make a bit of a difference. This way its stock appearance because of the gay california rules. the cost of service is pretty low to do this as well.

Depending on which exhaust (test pipe or cat?), cams, LICP and filter, you would be looking at around 320-350whp on a dyno dynamics dynometer.

If you want my opinion, you would get the best gains with a test pipe, Kelford or S2 cams, an ETS LICP and any drop in filter.

One thing you have to keep in mind when people post up their numbers is which dyno they were tuned on and if any correction was used.

It's really unfair for someone to post up an arbitrary hp number and not list if their car was an VIII/IX and what dyno they were tuned on.



If you care, my build goal is 400whp on 91 while keeping the car stock in appearance:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...-pick-two.html

I dont have a map, but I threw on the following mods:
- Fujita intake
- downpipe & RRE catless straight pipe
- 02 housing
- Fujita UICP
- ETS LICP
- Walbro 255
- stock IX turbo

Got a tune for 91, pushing 331 hp/ 308 tq on 23 psi.

i'd do all bolt on's first, get a tune, and see where you're at. no point in doing internals if you meet your power needs without opening it up. the mivec is a pretty capable system and you can get a lot out of it

I think in the end it will probably come down to how high/low reading the dyno you visit reads. On some dyno's intake/TBE Evo 9's get around 300, on some they get around 350. They are both just as fast, you just have a different number on your dyno sheet :) With cams/intercooler/piping/exhaust I think you could probably hit 350 on any dyno on 91. Cams and intercooler aren't cheap though :crap:

I have read this before, and I have hesitated on getting S2's for that reason since it is a DD.
I also read that tuning helps the vibration smooth out.

Can anyone confirm that?

thanks

LOL @ the guys complaining about vibration in their Evos.

You want comfort? Buy a Mercedes.

:lol:

My evo 8 has lower and upper hardpipes,turbo back exhaust its a borla and looks fairly stock not overly loud either,255 walbro pump and an intake I made 358 and 332 spiking 22psi

Tuning will smooth it out to an extent. Gsc s2 cams will have the aggressive idle if you want normal idle and more mid range power get the gsc s1

FYI u wont pass ca emission test with a tune and mods... u will have ur tuner to upload ur stock basemap back into ur computer to pass... just to let u know that there is ups and downs... either stay stock and pass or sacrifice and go for power...:beer::mitsu:

Passing smog on cams has been done before and yes you can pass with a tune.

Where are you getting your information from?

:confused:

The smart thing do to is to run https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...hramod-v7.html and run a smog map that you switch to.



Not that I would do that or anything...

;)

Depends on how aggressive your cams are. But my buddy has HKS 272/272 on his stock head and with a great tune, it barely even sounds like he has them.

Another buddy is running HKS 264/272 and you can tell by a stranger idle, but it doesn't sound loud or anything.

I made 329/ 312 on crap cali 91 and 23 psi stock turbo, 100% stock motor and cams, stock o2 housing and injectors. My only mods are ETS 3.5'' FMIC, ETS 3'' intake, ETS LICP & UICP, ACT clutch and flywheel, walbro 255 fp, MBC, HKS carbon-ti, megan DP and test pipe. I'm adding a c.o.p, mona lisa manifold, and o2 housing because I'm trying to crack the 350-360 whp mark myself. Thats a pretty solid/standard list of parts for a stock turbo set up. The only thing I would change is the TBE because of the cops in CA. If I had to do it again I would go with the RRE stealth TBE