Concerning oil pressure on new build
 

Ok guys, I have read through the countless oil pressure threads. They all kind of just end up in a dead end. I never see any actual resolutions.

So I just got finished with my 2.3 build. Its a turbotrix shortblock with bse. It was an 8 block, that I drilled for mivec for my 9 head. I ran a 9 headgasket. The motor runs great so far. I havnt done any wot on the motor yet, so I can tell you wot pressure.

I am running Kendall gt1 20w50 motor oil. The motor already has roughly 10k miles on it, so its technically "broken in". I am feedin my aem oil pressure gauge from the filter housing, with an extremepsi sensor relocation line.

Anyways, at idle once it finally warms up, I see about 30-35psi. Which seems normal, considering 20-50 oil, and no balance shafts.

The part that has me concerned, is while its sitting there idling. I can just barely tap the gas to say..3k. It will shoot to 90 at least. It drops right back down, but it just seems high. It seems just driving through town, its constantly reaching 90+. This is no wot, this us just driving through town and shifting at like 3500-4k.

Am I just paranoid, or is this something I should be worried about?

I know what we do with the dsm's with bse is we have to port out the oil relief passage out some. I know my talon use to do the same thing and I have yet to port it out but by doing that you are suppose to see lower pressures more in the normal range. With the evo I am sure it is prob the same. Can anyone confirm this? This may be the solution your looking for if it is the same.

Yea, thats the first thing I thought of was to port the pressure relief valve some. I just didnt see too many people doing it on evos, so i figured I would wait before I jump into that. I really dont wanna dig into the damn thing already to get the filter housing off and port that out. haha

Any other suggestions?

Totally understandable on that one. I will be interested in seeing some other responces too being my motor will get built soon as well

I've been having the exact same issue for the past year with my built motor (MAP stg. 2 2.1l). I've hogged out the relief port in the OFH as much as possible and its made no difference in pressure at all. I have the same oil pressure gauge as you, AMS sensor relocate, no balance shafts or oil squirters, and a MAP oil cooler.

I'd be less concerned with the oil pressure on mine if it wasn't causing leaks. Its only leaking on the timing belt side of my motor, I've replaced every gasket at least once as well and it will just leak from somewhere else after. I'm running 10w-40.

I'm almost to the point of pulling the motor and getting rid of it, I've put about 3k miles on my Evo in the past year and a half since I bought it, only 1200 are on the new motor and its been leaking since first start up. I'm starting to wonder if there is something partially blocking an oil passage somewhere. The builder has been of no help as well.

Excerpt from the mitsu service manual
After the engine has warmed up, check that oil pressure is
within the standard value.
Standard value:
At idle: 29 kPa (4.2 psi) or more
At 3,500 r/min: 294 − 686 kPa (43 − 100 psi)
Considering that that's assuming 10-30 oil, it Seems to me like you're worried about having a healthy engine.

haha, maybe I am. I am fine with the 30-35psi at idle. I was just worried with the way is shoots to 90psi so fast.

Sublime, thats terrible on the vendors part man. :( They should step in and try to help as much as possible. Im glad I didnt end up going with them for a shortblock. AS of right now, I dont have any leaks at all. Not a drop under the car. This is another issue that I am worried about though, I dont want it springing leaks up everywhere cause of the high pressure.

So are you running the piston squirters?-Sublime isn't and that would be an easy way to bleed off pressure at speed-. How about the oil cooler--has that been deleted also? The original motors were built to support all this extra equipment--when you delete it i would expect pressure to increase as a result. Just a thought.

I am pretty sure the squirters are still there. I do have the oem cooler still hooked up as well. I bought the engine used, I cant remember 100%, but I think I remember seeing the squirters when I had the motor on the stand after I pulled the oil pan off.

I have talked to a couple of other guys with buuilt blocks and no bs. It seems about normal to them.

i have the oil filter sandwich adapter i been hearing those cause the gauge to read high but on highway at 70mph at 3k i sit around 75 psi

From what research I've done the oil pressure doesn't seem to be that big of a deal, but those that mention they have high oil pressure didn't mention anything about leaks. I'm just stumped as to why the porting didn't do anything and I've been unsuccessful at stopping the leak. Its gotten to the point where I've lost complete interest in the car.

tsidrift1, i would be interested to see what your cylinder head oil pressure is if you're running 90psi at the oil filter plate.
high oil pressure quickly is a good thing, not a bad thing.
if you're concerned about it, goto a thinner oil.
Or call your engine builder and ask for their professional opinion, i'm sure they will be happy to help

Well, I feel a little better starting this thread lol. I contacted Turbotrix about the oil, they said to run 20w50. So thats what I am running. Its also about 25* the past few days too. Its a solid 40 or higher today, I might go drive around a bit and see what happens.

I know in my talon I can bury the oil pressure (130 psi) by 3k rpms. Not good. I haven't done the oil relief mod yet on it because simply a buddy of mine stole my extra motor with the oil filter housing on it and I am to lazy to take the one out of the car.