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(FIXED) Help~! Engin cuts (0RPM) on freeway, now can't start.
Hi Guys,
I need ideas on what to check. Whist driving on free way, I was pushing the car half throttle, boosting around 85 KPA (around 150 km) 5 gear, then suddenly I noticed that I can go further when I push the gas peddle. I looked at the rev count it reads 0, so I took the car to the side and came to a stop with the battery and engine oil light on. now I tried to crank it, but it cranks and no start. The car had some ticking noise coming from accessors belt area. I recently changed the oil and used mobile 1 5W50 I turned the Key to on, and check for codes, but no codes. Any ideas guys? I am amusing the worst engine failure, bearing burnt? So sad |
might be a snapped timing belt if the car will crank and not start but no CEL
take the oil cap off, shine a flashlight in there, and have a friend crank the car. if the cams don't turn, the timing belt snapped (or just remove the timing belt cover and crank it quick) you won't do any more damage than you've already done if you've been cranking it and it is the timing belt that's gone |
Originally Posted by llDemonll
(Post 10380881)
might be a snapped timing belt if the car will crank and not start but no CEL
take the oil cap off, shine a flashlight in there, and have a friend crank the car. if the cams don't turn, the timing belt snapped (or just remove the timing belt cover and crank it quick) you won't do any more damage than you've already done if you've been cranking it and it is the timing belt that's gone Also could it be a failed fuel pump?:confused: |
probably popped a fuse underneath the dash
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1 Attachment(s)
Hi Guys,
Have check with mechanic, fuel pump is OK, timing belt is not snapped, only scratched (see below photo), so internals should be OK. will do a compression test to check. Car cranks but can't start, tachometer read 0 RPM, so I guess the crank position sensor has come lose, but still working. so the ECU is not throwing a code, but as it lose, the sensor can't detect RPM, therefore, ECU don't initiate the duel and ignition system to start the engine. It only cranks the car. Just when you do the compression test? Attachment 194212 What do you guys think? |
RPM never reads above 0 unless the car actually starts
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like i said, CHECK YOUR FUSES!! it happens time to time, it happened to me.. car wouldnt prime the fuel pump and the car would just keep cranking. ECU fuse under the dash popped.
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Here's also a good little tid bit of info I learned about hall effect crank position sensors. If some how the crank position sensor was found to be loose or somehow had come in contact with the reluctor wheel and did not break physically from the contact then the magnet has the ability to become shorted and will not send a return signal back to the ecu indicating rotation, hence why a code will not be present. The ecu is in fact seeing rotation based on the cam sensor(s) but is somehow allowed to continue to rotate. Sucks because it would be convenient if there were a program or relay in place that would nullify crank rotation by extracting power to the starter if the signal from the crank sensor didnt match its normal rotation waver. I think that would prevent a ton of bent valves and damaged internals from slipped timing belts.
If in fact your ignition fuse under the dash is not blown (its a 10amp fuse) then your next step should be trying to locate a crank position sensor and replacing it to figure out if that has actually gone bad. If you dont have a meter that will allow you to measure the waver of the voltage return to the ecu its kind of your only thing left to do. While you're in there, please verify that your reluctor wheel is not bent or is able to drag across the magnet on the crank position sensor. If in fact you find that it is bent, either straighten it very well or get a new one. Its cheap insurance that this wont occur a mile from your house while you're by yourself. Good luck! |
Originally Posted by psphinx81
(Post 10385521)
like i said, CHECK YOUR FUSES!! it happens time to time, it happened to me.. car wouldnt prime the fuel pump and the car would just keep cranking. ECU fuse under the dash popped.
Just check it and the pump is priming. So I guess the ECU is not injecting? :confused: |
Originally Posted by boostzealot
(Post 10386200)
Here's also a good little tid bit of info I learned about hall effect crank position sensors. If some how the crank position sensor was found to be loose or somehow had come in contact with the reluctor wheel and did not break physically from the contact then the magnet has the ability to become shorted and will not send a return signal back to the ecu indicating rotation, hence why a code will not be present. The ecu is in fact seeing rotation based on the cam sensor(s) but is somehow allowed to continue to rotate. Sucks because it would be convenient if there were a program or relay in place that would nullify crank rotation by extracting power to the starter if the signal from the crank sensor didnt match its normal rotation waver. I think that would prevent a ton of bent valves and damaged internals from slipped timing belts.
If in fact your ignition fuse under the dash is not blown (its a 10amp fuse) then your next step should be trying to locate a crank position sensor and replacing it to figure out if that has actually gone bad. If you dont have a meter that will allow you to measure the waver of the voltage return to the ecu its kind of your only thing left to do. While you're in there, please verify that your reluctor wheel is not bent or is able to drag across the magnet on the crank position sensor. If in fact you find that it is bent, either straighten it very well or get a new one. Its cheap insurance that this wont occur a mile from your house while you're by yourself. Good luck! The cranks sensor was the key trouble maker here, so I will replace it, along with all the pulleys and tensioner, belts for the timing system. Just like the 60k service. and hopefully see if thing will run fine. Hopefully the ticking noise that was heard prior this accident has gone as well.:beer: Happy weekend guy! |
Replace Timing belt and Crank position sensor. Had the same thing happen recently ;)
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The car is back, changed the crank position sensor, the timing pulleys, water pump and thermostat. and tensioner.
Now the car runs fine~! Thanks for the help guys~! Moral of the story is, if you hear strange noise from the engine bay, get it checked immediately ~! I though it was the ticking noise like the one from the sticky thread, but turned out to be a sensor coming loose. One WOT boost, game over~ cut power and won't start. Happy Evoing~!:beer::beer: |
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