Weird clutch engagement problem. I'm stumped!
 

Made some passes at the strip on friday my last pass the car shifting started to get knotchy and a bit difficult to get into gears ( even just sitting idleing)


Missed 2nd after my launch because of knotchy shifting and then got 3 and 4th.

PROBLEM: After last pass the car will not go into any gears WHILE RUNNING.

If I turn the car off it will go into every gear just fine. I can start the car in first and drive it all the way through 5th gear just very KNOTCHY)

Clutch pressure / Pedal is still 100 percent and TOB / Retaining clip is still attached to Pressure plate.

What I'm seeing is the slave cylinder rod is not returning into the cylinder its self fully dis engaging the clutch and clutch fork its almost like its stuck open pushing theclutch fork towards the passenger side too much, keeping theclutch semi engaged.

Bled the slave cylinder and found nothing but MAJOR air coming out of it for the first few round of pumps. Going to replace it tomorrow, I bled it and reinstalled and still had the same problem... What gives?

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7423/...3d7f2db8_b.jpg

fork without slave installed.

.. What gives?

no input here?

How did you check this? Sure it is not partially pulled out?

I can't offer a lot of help. But I got sick of inconsistent pedal engagement height and all that crap, bought a Carbo twin with push conversion and should have done it when I bought the car.

visual inspection from the inspection hole under the car with a flashlight having someone in the car push the clutch pedal for me. Everything looked to be in order still. Does the fork look to be in the correct spot right now?

bump

I'm confused by your question. You said "the slave cylinder rod is not returning into the cylinder its self fully dis engaging the clutch and clutch fork its almost like its stuck open pushing theclutch fork towards the passenger side too much, keeping theclutch semi engaged"

The clutch should be fully engaged with your foot off the pedal and the rod as far into the slave cylinder as it will go on it's own.

I don't understand what you mean by the fork being open.

From the picture it looks like the friction disk is very worn or has come apart. Either way you're going to have to pull the trans.

The clip is still attached to the Pressureplate as well as the TOB, They aremoving as one unit like they should... I replaced the slave cylinder and re bled and still running into the sameproblem.

Update: just noticed that the sensor on the master cylinder has been cut in half one ofthewires.. What is the function of this?

fluid level

can you answer my post?

Update : drove the car around and its shifting MUCH better donthaveto slam the car as long as stomp on the clutch and put it to the floor.. Also got it to go into 1st while in neutral with engine running had to pump the clutch pedal and it slid in after. Still notchy at times but getting better forsome reason...

AS far as fork being open I meant... It's resting location in my picture if that was normal or not.

if it helps u out then here is a pic of my slavecylinder resting in Neutural with the pedal fully up.
http://i408.photobucket.com/albums/p...ps5b9c5c1f.jpg

I decided to bleed my clutch line tonight, and I think I am running into an issue as well but wont clog ur thread until ur issue is resolved:). gl!

Nowtheonly issue is pumping the clutch pedal get into any gear when idleing... Master cylinder?

When the slave cylinder pushes towards the passengers side, the clutch is fully DISENGAGED, not engaged. You say that its returning to its normal resting spot after you depress the pedal and release it?

It sounds like a portion of your disc has broken off or you warped the pressure plate and its not fully disengaging.

-Jamie