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What's the recommended oil pressure for a track car?
Hi all.
the question is basically for engine bulders/tuners.what oil pressure should be considered as normal for a track evo on full throttle?the car has a dry sump,often sees 1,7-1,8g , revs to 8200,has 650bhp.the reason i'm asking this is that the bearings somehow do not last long although the oil pressure never drops below 4bar.what could cause this? |
Are you actually logging 4 bar or is it just by eye. what oil are you running? how aggressive is your tune? which bearings are you loosing, mains, rod?
are you loosing them over a period of time? or after the first 3 miles? knock and det tend to eat bearings. I believe we are going to need more information to help point you in the right direction or give ideas. |
^what he said...also what are your oil temps?
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the car has motec m800 ecu so i can see the oil pressure in logs.there are no problems with det and knock.the only thing i cannot see is the oil temps,solving this at the moment.i suspect that maybe this could be the issue?i've tried millers 10w60 NT,Liqui molli 10w60, now on motul 20w60 le mans.oil manufacturer doesn't seem to make any difference.basically the bearings only last for one practice run or race.both mains and rod. the last time which was 3weeks ago the engine builder stripped the engine and found that the lower part of the block where the crank sits is seriously distorted.i understand that it could be the reason for the mains to fail.but i don't get this.this happened in 100miles of tracktime after a FULL rebuild.i'm running on e85,boost is only 1,7bar,no signs of detonation,no agressive tuning,no coolant temperature increase,egt etc.what could cause this????when i asked the engine builder i got no real answer.o was told that it could be because of a "wrong alloy" of the block.do you think i believed it??:)i've changed the bearings 5times during this and last season,had 3engine rebuilds.it really pisses me of.and costs a bit too:)
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Are you replacing EVERYTHING oil touches on rebuilds? Oil cooler, all oil lines, oil pump, and hot tanking everything else? It sounds like you are retaining metal particles somewhere in the system and they are just killing your 'new' engines every time. If I were you and had as many issues with 3 rebuilds I'd just start fresh with everything new. Also are you cleaning out the dry sump and replacing necessary parts every time? It's the one down side to dry dumps. Much less likely to blow something up due to lack of oil but if you do blow something up or kill your bearings it's a much more complicated and expensive process because you need to renew/clean all your dry sump components along with the motor.
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Everything is disassembled and checked, cleaned/washed thoroughly every time-oil pump including.all of the oil lines are completely new-we relocated the oil tank this year.is there any chance the bearing-to-crank gap is too big?
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