Weir 12-plate for Evo VIII/IX review & info.
 

** EDIT:

New info. Diff works fine. I will post up why ASAP. It was user error... not sure how.. but it was! Details when I have time. Stay tuned.

I have no interest in your dispute with Weir. However, this is interesting, you leave out the best part of the story. If it hasn't all been told somewhere else, tell about your experience with a restacked diff and how that differed from the Weir differential and what you felt when the Weir differential went away.

No dispute, at this time. Just my experience with the part's longevity ,or lack thereof.
Since it was so far in between events, I have to do my best to remember details related to performance. I did not notice an improvement over the re-stacked OEM diff. That I would remember. In fact, I'm trying to remember if I pushed the car, at all, up until my MRLS day. I'll have to go back and look. I'd like to think I got some use it out it.
I can't really say how performance degraded over time, as I'm not 100% sure the unit worked correctly, from the start. If the car was like ,"whoa! This is awesome!" Then I would have had a solid point of reference.
Again, I'm not complaining, pointing fingers, etc. Just writing about my experience with the plates.
{thumbup}.
Worth mentioning: I felt my OEM diff was starting to do the same thing, so maybe there is something else going on here. And if that's the case, I'd of course make a point to say so when I find out.
That's why I'm hoping to work with Weir and find the problem: maybe we can save someone else from having the same issue.

Cliffnotes: didn't see a difference. A few thousand miles later, I have an open diff.
😂
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My build thread has a picture of the kit when I got it. It's new and in a sealed package, part number and all.
I didn't measure the assembly before installation, as the instructions from Weir state that I drop it in and go. Their site says, "The best part is you can install this kit on a Saturday in your garage and save the expense of shipping your diff and down time" and the instructions only say, "once all screws are tight, check between the cover and casing for any gaps, the two parts should meet together with no gap."
If I should have still measured everything, then that is definitely on me and could definitely explain the failure.

The parts that are needed to rebuild the differential and set the preload.

LSD Spring Plate (4)
MR195402

LSD Clutch Plate (4)
MB160500

Rear LSD Friction Disc (4) - Two on each side and there are two thicknesses available
MB160497 (1.75)
MB160496 (1.65)

Spacer Set - Differential Gear - Shims
MB241903

Gracias! I priced it all out, but with only two spring plates = $1,000 :crap: . I ended up going aftermarket for $800.

Very strange. I've used the Weir kit for over 10,000 miles now and have noticed the following behavioral quirks:

1. The locking noise has gone down significantly.
2. It takes a minute or two longer to warm up the cars diff in order to get maximum locking diff action.


I think that for the most consistent and smooth operation coming from a rear diff, you'd probably want to invest in the quaife helical rear diff.

https://shop.quaife.co.uk/quaife-atb...hi-evo-4-5-6-7

Even the TRE 1.5 max lock seems to use a plate style setup that will eventually wear out. With a helical style like the quaife, it should be must more consistent and last longer. It is the most reckless approach on the wallet though...

I did consider WaveTrac and Quife both. Since I don't put many miles on the car (and I got it super cheap), I went with a Cusco unit. As long as they sell rebuild kits, I don't mind. Though given my luck they stopped yesterday :lol:

I honestly can't explain why the Weir kit didn't work well for me. I'll be pulling it out very soon and will take a look, though. I followed all instruction correctly, but maybe there is something I did wrong, so I'm not putting it on Weir, at all.. despite other threads I've found with similar results.

I hearya there. My luck has also given me some totally ironic and highly unlikely bad curve balls during my build. That probably will continue for as long as we decide to build cool stuff.

We do the best we can to update our cars with the latest technology, but sometimes we just go backwards. Given the Weir design, i'm sure it will wear out on me eventually.

we were half discussing in the other thread, but I cannot recommend helical in the rear for our cars. at least in autox, way too much rear wheel liftage for it to be effective.

I was reading about how they worked and was uncertain that I'd be happy with it. For the front, absolutely.. but the rear, maybe not. As you mention: we tripod LOL. I don't auto-x much.. but when I do, I'd still like the rear to lock haha. I have many, many pictures of my inside rear tire being off the ground. On the other hand, If the wheel is in the air, do we care how fast it's spinning? Does it lock as soon as it touches back down? That's all stuff I don't know but wish I did.

we do care how fast it's spinning wrt to helical/torsen. it's the same if one wheel were on ice, spin city. i'd say spinning actually would exacerbate it. it shouldn't make TOO much difference because it'll touch down just after you start accelerating and the weight shifts back, but i'd rather have it lock when i start accelerating, not when i start accelerating + wheel touches down with enough weight to restore traction

I installed the Weir 12 plate a while back on my 9 track car and it was good for a while.
Upon disassembly the driving edges of the plates were pretty beat up.
Sent it off to John at Team Rip for his 12 plate (actually had him give it the full treatment) and 1.5 way. Never looked back.Completely transformed the car and was as good in the 5th season as the Weir was on day one.

Shoe