so I've decided I'm going to pull the engine and take to machine shop
Guys,
I'm going to pull the engine then take to a machine shop, my plan is for the money I save I might buy some Wiseco 1400 HDs and Manley I beams or Carrello rods. Stuff is not cheap in Australia but I'm only going to do it once if I do it right. Might do the clutch while I am at it. A few questions There's some good youtubes on a guy dropping the motor out the bottom, is it easier this way or to pull the motor from top? I've called a machine shop, and they said bring in the block and they will do the hone and crank and fit the hardware. So I plan to take it to them and they can measure up the bore and decide what size of pistons, rings and bearings and either I order them or get a price and if they can match it, let them order and fit them. As its a reasonable low mileage motor I want to try and use the original crank so let them check that too. Any questions I should ask the shop now or to early and wait till I pull the motor then go back to them to discuss, maybe confirm stuff in email? They gave me a price around 2k to measure up and fit which is about the going price. |
out the bottom if you have a lift, out the top if you don't. Im sure someone will disagree, and tell you about how easy it is to drop out of the bottom on jacks but I don't see it. While its in the shop its a good time to do main studs, but you will need an align hone to go with it so its up to you if its in the budget.
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Originally Posted by Biggiesacks
(Post 11843459)
out the bottom if you have a lift, out the top if you don't. Im sure someone will disagree, and tell you about how easy it is to drop out of the bottom on jacks but I don't see it. While its in the shop its a good time to do main studs, but you will need an align hone to go with it so its up to you if its in the budget.
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These guys seemed to do it reasonably easy out the top in one day
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I've only pulled the engine from the top as it was done in my backyard. Having a friend or 2 to assist with the removal will make things easier. Having the right tools prior to removal is also good(Slide Hammer to pull the inner shaft from the tcase.). I removed the radiator, exhaust manifold and tcase before removing the engine and gearbox as 1 unit.
Take your time to bag and tag the bolts, brackets, labeling connectors, ect. This will make putting it back together smoother. |
Originally Posted by blackline
(Post 11843601)
I've only pulled the engine from the top as it was done in my backyard. Having a friend or 2 to assist with the removal will make things easier. Having the right tools prior to removal is also good(Slide Hammer to pull the inner shaft from the tcase.). I removed the radiator, exhaust manifold and tcase before removing the engine and gearbox as 1 unit.
Take your time to bag and tag the bolts, brackets, labeling connectors, ect. This will make putting it back together smoother. |
They come out fairly easy through the top with an ending hoist and a load leveler. Removing the belt driven accessories, water pump pulley, and crank damper from the engine help give a little extra room. Also, remove the driver side mount from trans makes it easier for that to clear the tabs on the chassis.
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Yup, definitely from above with no lift. Watch the radiator support and wiper cowl on the way up. The engine can bend and break that stuff with ease if you don't keep things under control. Good news is that you don't need to disconnect your AC compressor or power steering pump from the car, just the engine block.
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"pull motor and take to a machine shop"
what machine shop. I suggest you spend the money and get it to one of the evo engine builders that have some evo cred |
Originally Posted by hutch959
(Post 11843704)
"pull motor and take to a machine shop"
what machine shop. I suggest you spend the money and get it to one of the evo engine builders that have some evo cred You have a good point hutch, but unfortunately those builders will still use a machine shop before they get started. I think the OP should just rebuild it himself and get the learning out of it. |
Originally Posted by Pal215
(Post 11843827)
You have a good point hutch, but unfortunately those builders will still use a machine shop before they get started. I think the OP should just rebuild it himself and get the learning out of it.
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It's a Mitsubishi, not a Ferrari. Any knowledgeable shop worth their salt can properly rebuild it. Cracks me up when people get all excited about needing to find an "evo" shop. It's standard iron block/aluminum head 4 cylinder with a timing belt. OP isn't trying to make 800whp where the combo really starts to matter anyways..
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Originally Posted by Jonno99
(Post 11843652)
thanks mate, good advice, did you take the hood off?
I took it off but I've seen people leave it on. Also, you can unbolt the A/C from the bracket and zip tie it to the side so you don't need to to evacuate it. |
Biggie has good advise will take you 8-10 hours the first time to remove engine and trans also make sure you have a slide hammer to remove the shafts.
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
(Post 11843876)
It's a Mitsubishi, not a Ferrari. Any knowledgeable shop worth their salt can properly rebuild it. Cracks me up when people get all excited about needing to find an "evo" shop. It's standard iron block/aluminum head 4 cylinder with a timing belt. OP isn't trying to make 800whp where the combo really starts to matter anyways..
the last evo crank i took to a local "reputable" machine shop to get micro polished. ... when i picked it up they had cut it.... uggghhh. anyway.... if im spending a ton of money, im not gonna let some shop do it that "should know what they are doing". |
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