Any tips before i start pulling this down?
 

Ok This is where I am so far with my motor, I want to pull it down to just block with pistons and big end still in place, then get it to a engine workshop that does these motors for a rebore and new pistons, rods, bearings. Anyone got any useful tips to pulling this down, before I start pulling the pullies and head off, that they have learned in the past?

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...a8da184bee.png

read the workshop manual... you can download it for free from evoscan.com

Honestly its pretty simple. Are you wanting to leave the head fully intact with the cams and in place?

Thanks Already downloaded on pc , just saw lots of pictures without instructions in 11B

yes block first, everything goes back together like stock at 20 tho, that will cost me enough, however will prob have to resurface head to make sure it's flat, might reseat valves while it's off and new seals, comes with gasket kit anyway. Might break it in gently Then I'm thinking get it to a tuner for a flex tune, fp red and S2s, All this is lots of money in Au, anyway first thing first back to the block

I'm sorry but there's no short cut to taking a motor apart, making sure everything is in place, just take pictures & trust you'll put it back together the same way. good luck on the rebuild.....

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.evo...0a2d8937c6.jpg
Keep track of parts and where they go.

Sounds like you want to take it down to the shortblock only correct? (Block, Crank, Rods, Pistons, Bearings, Main Girdle, Main Studs). Here is a quick and dirty rundown without bolt sizes or torque specs

-Start by placing the block in TDC by rotating the crank pully using a 1/2" breaker bar.
-Insert pin into hydraulic timing belt tensioner and unbolt it. If you can't get the pin into it, you can insert it later with a C clamp
-Remove water pump
-Remove Timing belt tensioner pully
-Remove idler pulley right next to it
-Remove Timing belt.
-Pop off valve cover and loosen head bolts/studs using breaker bar in factory pattern. No need to remove cams or cam gears.
-Remove head studs and head gasket if applicable.
-Remove Cylinder head by pulling directly upwards (looks like you already took off the Mivec oil feed line and filter?)
-Remove knock sensor from block if still installed

-Use the best impact gun you have to remove the crank bolt which is torqued to hell. Another way to get it out of the car is to insert two flywheel bolts into the crank and lodge a piece of steel flat stock in between to keep the crank from moving. Bumping the starter is not an option here.

At this point you should be able to slide off the crank gear, balance shaft gear, crank position sensor trigger plate, crank position sensor itself, oil filter housing, and anything else left on the oil pump/front cover assembly, but don't unbolt the actual front cover/oil pump yet.

-Remove the oil pan
-Remove the oil pickup tube (Note: This is connected to the oil pump front cover and the block girdle)
-Remove the oil baffle plate
-Remove the oil pump front cover

At this point you should be left with a bare shortblock ready to be sent anywhere. You can use a blade to clean up gasket surfaces afterwards if you'd like.

Wear gloves, use proper socket sizes (Mostly 10mm, 12mm, 14mm, 17mm, and 22mm), be safe!

It's pretty straight forward. If you have done it a bunch, putting bolts in marked plastic bags is a good idea. IE- "front case/oil pump", "oil filter housing", "timing belt pulleys/tensioner", "water pump", etc...

Other than that, tear it down. There's no reason to bother with finding TDC, it's coming all the way apart anyways.

check, I bought a bunch of cheap containers with squares partitions and lids so I could stack them out of the way

thanks, this is what I was looking for, I was a little lacking in confidence on going straight at it

Master, I hope I will one day be worthy, more work to be done :)

IIRC the factory heads bolts are 12mm 12 point. Best to use a nice breaker bar on those, loosen them in steps, opposite the tightening order in the manual, 90* at a time until they're all loose.

Thanks bro, I read a standard deep 12 mil 12 point socket will do it. I bought a good air rattle gun I used on the fly wheel bolts that I damaged trying to get off, lesson learned on that one

A standard socket will work on the bolts. You might need something deeper for studs, if you go that route.