Is there an install guide for the AEM UEGO gauge
Is there an install guide for the AEM UEGO gauge
I have looked and looked and found nothing. I'm going to be installing this with out the EMS for now.
I dont hvae it yet, but its shipping, does it come with directions? or is it something I should take to a muffler shop to have a bung welded in?
any links to the install would be good, I cant find anything.
dustin
I dont hvae it yet, but its shipping, does it come with directions? or is it something I should take to a muffler shop to have a bung welded in?
any links to the install would be good, I cant find anything.
dustin
Last edited by RicochetGuard; May 2, 2005 at 02:59 PM.
stick a bung in your exhaust pipe, i think about a 3 feet away from your exhaust manifold.
make sure the bung is tilted at least 15 degree upwards.
if you do it straight from the top of the exhaust, that would be ideal. YOu do this to make sure you don't get gunk in your 02 sensor.
then relay that to interior.
You may need to put some hole in your exhaust.
hope this helps. not really for aem uego, but you get the point.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...read.php?t=442
make sure the bung is tilted at least 15 degree upwards.
if you do it straight from the top of the exhaust, that would be ideal. YOu do this to make sure you don't get gunk in your 02 sensor.
then relay that to interior.
You may need to put some hole in your exhaust.
hope this helps. not really for aem uego, but you get the point.
http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/f...read.php?t=442
make sure it's before the catalytic convertor, or that there is no catcon in the exhaust
WB02 readings post cat aren't good
It comes with an install guide, and some have elimated the 2nd 02 sensor to utilize the hole for the WB02 sensor and then relay the signal wire back to the ecu.
Make sure you wire the UEGO straight from the battery/switched. The UEGO needs to have the cleanest power available, some people use a relay, some use a manual switch if you can remember. Put it inline with a 10 amp fuse as well.
Wire the black wire on the UEGO to the negative battery terminal as well. When you get the UEGO it will tell you what pin on the ECU harness to use as the singal input
WB02 readings post cat aren't good
It comes with an install guide, and some have elimated the 2nd 02 sensor to utilize the hole for the WB02 sensor and then relay the signal wire back to the ecu.
Make sure you wire the UEGO straight from the battery/switched. The UEGO needs to have the cleanest power available, some people use a relay, some use a manual switch if you can remember. Put it inline with a 10 amp fuse as well.
Wire the black wire on the UEGO to the negative battery terminal as well. When you get the UEGO it will tell you what pin on the ECU harness to use as the singal input
I have it to install too.
But, don't weld the sensor. Get a screw type bung and well the bung into DP end.
then screw in the Bosch sensor, so you can take it out later.
Can find a bung cheap...
But, don't weld the sensor. Get a screw type bung and well the bung into DP end.
then screw in the Bosch sensor, so you can take it out later.
Can find a bung cheap...
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Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 106
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Unless you are buying it used, the bung and a plug come with the UEGO kit. I used the stock rear O2 location and it works just fine. Idle readings can be a little laggy since the exhaust flow is so much slower and the sensor so far away, but at anything other than idle, it works perfectly FYI.
I probably wouldn't count on using the 0-1V output as a signal for the rear O2 input to ECU however. I didn't even bother (especially if you have a test pipe anyway), but unless something has changed, the 0-1V output does not really work well for supplying signal to the ECU. I haven't been on the AEM Forums in a while, but I don't think I saw a single post where someone successfully used the 0-1V ouptut to make the ECU think it was the stock O2 sensor.
If you want to keep the stock O2 sensors, your best bet would be to do just that and then weld in the the bung for the Bosch somewhere in the downpipe (before the cat as stated). Any local muffler/welding shop will do that for a minimal charge.
There are several plugged holes under the carpet on passenger side floorboard (see pic) that you can use to route the UEGO harness between the cabin and the sensor (including the rear O2 sensor connection if you remove it like I did). The connector for the UEGO sensor is rather large, but if you remove the grey clip, it can be worked through pretty easily without having to cut/drill anything.
Wiring it is simply a switched and fused +12V source (hot with ignition) and a ground...that's it. The only possible complaints I might have about the AEM UEGO gauges are 1) they only read to 11.0:1 AFR on the gauge and 2) the harnesses cannot be disconnected from the gauge. So you need to mount the gauge first or at least locate it pretty much where it will go and then run the wiring from there. After that, all of the wiring will need to be removed if you want to take the gauge out for anything, so leave yourself enough slack if you ever need to access behind where the gauge is mounted for anything.
I probably wouldn't count on using the 0-1V output as a signal for the rear O2 input to ECU however. I didn't even bother (especially if you have a test pipe anyway), but unless something has changed, the 0-1V output does not really work well for supplying signal to the ECU. I haven't been on the AEM Forums in a while, but I don't think I saw a single post where someone successfully used the 0-1V ouptut to make the ECU think it was the stock O2 sensor.
If you want to keep the stock O2 sensors, your best bet would be to do just that and then weld in the the bung for the Bosch somewhere in the downpipe (before the cat as stated). Any local muffler/welding shop will do that for a minimal charge.
There are several plugged holes under the carpet on passenger side floorboard (see pic) that you can use to route the UEGO harness between the cabin and the sensor (including the rear O2 sensor connection if you remove it like I did). The connector for the UEGO sensor is rather large, but if you remove the grey clip, it can be worked through pretty easily without having to cut/drill anything.
Wiring it is simply a switched and fused +12V source (hot with ignition) and a ground...that's it. The only possible complaints I might have about the AEM UEGO gauges are 1) they only read to 11.0:1 AFR on the gauge and 2) the harnesses cannot be disconnected from the gauge. So you need to mount the gauge first or at least locate it pretty much where it will go and then run the wiring from there. After that, all of the wiring will need to be removed if you want to take the gauge out for anything, so leave yourself enough slack if you ever need to access behind where the gauge is mounted for anything.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 106
Likes: 0
Actually the gauge only reads to 17:1 on the lean side, but the wideband itself is capable of 9:1-19:1 IIRC. For tuning P/T (14.7ish:1) it's great. To tune 11.5-11.1:1 max under boost (where most people will be) it's great, but when the gauge pegs, if you don't have a logger connected to it, there's just no telling how rich it really is...could be 10.8:1 which is OK or 9.5:1 which is not 