I'm In, Baby!!!!
At 7 years, you're probably going to end upside-down when you go to buy your next vehicle as well. If I were in your shoes (and as a fellow math geek, I will be very soon when I return to school), I would back off and wait until I could get an interest rate below 5%. Do the numbers, waiting is worth it.
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Congrats on your new purchase......As for the rates thats not bad and I work for a Auto Finance co.....the only companies giving better rates than 6.49 for 84 mos is Credit Unions....and its different with the customer, bank, and location......CONGRATS this is one payment you wont hate paying.....
Originally Posted by VTECH8TR
I'm sorry but you should change your name from Mathgeek to MathMoron.... They are giving it to you without the KY dude,,,,run far away from them.
Originally Posted by donour
At 7 years, you're probably going to end upside-down when you go to buy your next vehicle as well. If I were in your shoes (and as a fellow math geek, I will be very soon when I return to school), I would back off and wait until I could get an interest rate below 5%. Do the numbers, waiting is worth it.
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As far as the deal you made, 38k for 84 months with the rate of 6.49%, the payment would come about 564.09 per month (through an online calculator), and plus the GAP insurance that'll come to about what you are paying. So the dealership isn't trying to screw you over on the financing of the car, but paying 38K for the Evo... Well as long as you are happy I guess it's alright.
Last edited by chronozon; Jun 24, 2005 at 08:54 AM.
Originally Posted by mathgeek
I do not intend to race, track, launch, or even redline it. Before you purists weigh in with your "then-you-shouldn't-buy-the-car-if-you-don't-intend-to-drive-it" comments, I'm not any different than the suburban housewife who buys a Hummer and uses it to drive to Wal-Mart.
Im amazed at the fact they have pushed loans to 84 months!!!! 72 months is crazy enough to think about.. let alone 84!!!!!!!!!!! Who even keeps a car that long if your younger??? I'm 26 and have in the past 4 years gone through a 99 eclipse which I fully built, a 2004 350Z and now my evo... i think im chillen on this one for awhile tho.. got a house now and would rather not lose my *** on cars anymore.
Congrats on the car... just try to pay as much off as you can so your not in the hole worse than you are now... you'll love the car.. but if your not gonna drive it.. you may never know what lies beneath the seat of your pants! Follow up with us after youve had the car a few months and see if you ever hit over 6500 rpm lol
Congrats on the car... just try to pay as much off as you can so your not in the hole worse than you are now... you'll love the car.. but if your not gonna drive it.. you may never know what lies beneath the seat of your pants! Follow up with us after youve had the car a few months and see if you ever hit over 6500 rpm lol
Wow. I pay 3.90% on 27,9xx for my 03 Evo for 60 months and that's $513 a month. You sure you got invoice??? From Edmunds.com
2005 Mitsu Evo VIII GSR
National Base Price $28,928
SSL (Invoice) $ 2,727
Destination charge $ 575
Invoice Total $32,230
38K + 5K=43K for Evo, minus 7K loss on trade = 36,xxx
That means you paid 11% tax on your Evo??? I don't know what sales tax on cars is in CA, but 11% is kinda hard to believe. ($32,230 x 1.11=36,xxx)
Mathematically, I'd say unless you make more than $60,000 a year net profit AFTER HOUSING, that you're in over your head. This assumes a moderate lifestyle in already expensive California and not subsiding on ramen noodles and water. I'm also curious as to what your insurance costs are and how old you are. Personally I think any term over 60 months is just lining the pockets of banks with interest payments.
My recommendation to you would be to throw EVERY spare cent you have at the end of the month to principal reduction. Check with your lienholder, some banks will let you send in another "payment" from the payment booklet and apply it to the principal, others will require you to send a check to a different address and note it "principal reduction". Either way, try and build your credit and refinance at a lower APR as soon as humanly possible.
Investment wise the only thing that will probably beat a 6.5% after tax rate of return is moderately aggressive stock trading with really good timing or real estate (esp in CA). If you can't do either of the preceeding exceptionally well, stick to reducing that principal on your loan and getting a better APR.
Mathematically there's no "Proof" that my advice would yeild anything as concrete as a formula, but take it from someone who used to be broke, and is also reasonably adept at mathematics.
2005 Mitsu Evo VIII GSR
National Base Price $28,928
SSL (Invoice) $ 2,727
Destination charge $ 575
Invoice Total $32,230
38K + 5K=43K for Evo, minus 7K loss on trade = 36,xxx
That means you paid 11% tax on your Evo??? I don't know what sales tax on cars is in CA, but 11% is kinda hard to believe. ($32,230 x 1.11=36,xxx)
Mathematically, I'd say unless you make more than $60,000 a year net profit AFTER HOUSING, that you're in over your head. This assumes a moderate lifestyle in already expensive California and not subsiding on ramen noodles and water. I'm also curious as to what your insurance costs are and how old you are. Personally I think any term over 60 months is just lining the pockets of banks with interest payments.
My recommendation to you would be to throw EVERY spare cent you have at the end of the month to principal reduction. Check with your lienholder, some banks will let you send in another "payment" from the payment booklet and apply it to the principal, others will require you to send a check to a different address and note it "principal reduction". Either way, try and build your credit and refinance at a lower APR as soon as humanly possible.
Investment wise the only thing that will probably beat a 6.5% after tax rate of return is moderately aggressive stock trading with really good timing or real estate (esp in CA). If you can't do either of the preceeding exceptionally well, stick to reducing that principal on your loan and getting a better APR.
Mathematically there's no "Proof" that my advice would yeild anything as concrete as a formula, but take it from someone who used to be broke, and is also reasonably adept at mathematics.
Originally Posted by TeamAccolade
What do you spend your money on mathgeek? (hobby wise)
Well when you get sick of the car 4 years from now and want something new....go wrap it around a tree and get it all paid off with your GAP. I'd rather pay 15 a month more for insurance than be that far upsidedown on a car loan....ouch!


