Evo Redline Raiser
lol no prob i guess i was pretty vague with the question i didnt know how to phrase it no because i know i had a bunch of 240's and they sound like pure **** after redline lol but turbo non turbo nissan mitsu big differences.
Originally Posted by IDRINKV8
lol no prob i guess i was pretty vague with the question i didnt know how to phrase it no because i know i had a bunch of 240's and they sound like pure **** after redline lol but turbo non turbo nissan mitsu big differences.
How come when I put the needle past my CRV's redline my car starts to shake? lol Sorry if it's not on topic with EVO but I'm talking bout redlines soo...sorta on topic? Is the "factory sets are lower to cover for warranty" only for high-performance cars like the Evo or S2? Or all?
engines are design to make the most power at a certain rpm range (unless you have Vtec or similar apparatus). there's no point of raising the red line if you don't have to supporting mods to make power in the high rpm range. valve floating is the main concern when increasing red line with stock valve train. valve float can cause the valve to come in contact with each other or the pistons and then kaaboom. more of a problem with high compression NA engine with dome pistons. it's always a good idea to upgrade your valve springs and use titanium retainers to prevent valve floating. rod bolts is another conern with high rpm engine. they have to be strong enough to keep to rods and piston connected to the crank when the piston change direction from up to down during an intake stroke. there is a lot of g-force involve when the piston change direction.
Originally Posted by CRVdrftR05
How come when I put the needle past my CRV's redline my car starts to shake? lol Sorry if it's not on topic with EVO but I'm talking bout redlines soo...sorta on topic? Is the "factory sets are lower to cover for warranty" only for high-performance cars like the Evo or S2? Or all?
Originally Posted by BMan
Manufacturers set redline values for different reasons. Some will set the redline for driveline critical speed, some for lean-out condition, some for valvetrain stability, most of these things are easy to fix. Some mfgs use the redline to cheap out on pistons and rods and use sintered metal parts (cheaper than cast) so with a modified ecu, you will send a rod through the block (Ford 4.6L for example).
My redline is set to 7800 but I get the same 2nd gear lockout problem much above 7000. The additional RPM range is really handy at the track. There are some corners where having the extra range allows me to shift in a better spot. It definitely doesn't feel like I'm making any more power in the higher RPMs.
Originally Posted by termsheet
My redline is set to 7800 but I get the same 2nd gear lockout problem much above 7000. The additional RPM range is really handy at the track. There are some corners where having the extra range allows me to shift in a better spot. It definitely doesn't feel like I'm making any more power in the higher RPMs.
Originally Posted by IDRINKV8
lol no prob i guess i was pretty vague with the question i didnt know how to phrase it no because i know i had a bunch of 240's and they sound like pure **** after redline lol but turbo non turbo nissan mitsu big differences.
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