Changed oil to Pennzoil Platinum.
It also never fails for someone to bring up the "Do you think you know more than Mitsubishi Engineers" argument. Which is pretty funny because that alludes to them thinking the engineers make all the decisions and bean counters just sit idly by saying "well, if it makes 3 more hp who cares if it costs $12 quart vs $2 a quart". Which I'm pretty sure is not the case.
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wait... 85 a gallon... wow... um... i paid 59 for mine... haha... guess those taxes must really add up... that oil sucks it looks like honey... lmao
i'd like to know where you found it for that. i'm talking about the MR specific tranny fluid, not 5-speed tranny fluid or TC/rear diff fluid. not that i run it anyway, just curious. i refused to pay that much for a fluid when there are better out there for far less.
Hahahaha! Actually...I don't think this guy's joking. That stuff can barely be classified as a synthetic. They only have it on the cap of the car because mobil made a deal with Mitsu--not because they are the "proper" oil for that engine. Learn about oil before you chime in with a remark like that.
Well, I'm pretty sure how dark an oil is when drained is in no way a proper determination of its durability or efficacy.
Post your analysis results in this thread please. I'm having an analysis performed on my current motor oil (it's a secret) at next drain. As I'm certain you are aware results mean very little unless there's a frame of reference. I'd like to have an oil analysis of several oils and maybe post a thread about it. It would be a lot easier and faster than sending out every successive oil drain for analysis on my own...
Post your analysis results in this thread please. I'm having an analysis performed on my current motor oil (it's a secret) at next drain. As I'm certain you are aware results mean very little unless there's a frame of reference. I'd like to have an oil analysis of several oils and maybe post a thread about it. It would be a lot easier and faster than sending out every successive oil drain for analysis on my own...
You know the saying for our cars right? If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Go back to Mobil 1.
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From: Davidson, NC
Besides that's not really what I was getting at. In the areas where it makes a difference I'm sure they do spend the money but, for no noticeable gains you can bet they will go with what ever makes financial sense.
Last edited by hotrod2448; Apr 18, 2007 at 06:41 AM.
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From: IL
Amsoil hands down
www.amsoil.com
www.amsoil.com
Where to start....
Mobil 1 Extended Performance is a PAO Based Product.
Castrol SynTec is a lesser Group III Hydro-Cracked oil.
You can't tell by "Seat of the Pants" which oil is better or produced more power. Needs to be done on a Chassis Dyno or with someone who runs Consistent ET's at a track. I have some Drag Racers that picked up 2-3 tenths in the qtr using AMSOIL 0W-30. That is why most of NASCAR uses it for qualifying.
You can't tell which oil is better by feel or smell, you have to use oil analysis.
As far as Mobil Petroleum coking and/or sludge buildup... It was a petroleum oil, they all do it and even synthetis do in certain engines, Toyota 3.0 for one. It is also a sign of infrequent oil changes.
Oil is NOT Oil... that's like saying gas is gas... Any Synthetic, whether Group III or PAO Group IV will out perform any Petroleum as of right now.
As far as 0W-50... it takes a heap of VI Improvers to do that and they start breaking down with heat and use. Waiting to see some oil analysis from anyone on that oil.
Doc
oildoc@bestoil4you.com
Mobil 1 Extended Performance is a PAO Based Product.
Castrol SynTec is a lesser Group III Hydro-Cracked oil.
You can't tell by "Seat of the Pants" which oil is better or produced more power. Needs to be done on a Chassis Dyno or with someone who runs Consistent ET's at a track. I have some Drag Racers that picked up 2-3 tenths in the qtr using AMSOIL 0W-30. That is why most of NASCAR uses it for qualifying.
You can't tell which oil is better by feel or smell, you have to use oil analysis.
As far as Mobil Petroleum coking and/or sludge buildup... It was a petroleum oil, they all do it and even synthetis do in certain engines, Toyota 3.0 for one. It is also a sign of infrequent oil changes.
Oil is NOT Oil... that's like saying gas is gas... Any Synthetic, whether Group III or PAO Group IV will out perform any Petroleum as of right now.
As far as 0W-50... it takes a heap of VI Improvers to do that and they start breaking down with heat and use. Waiting to see some oil analysis from anyone on that oil.
Doc
oildoc@bestoil4you.com
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From: Milwaukee
^ What are your thought's on Motul's 300V line? Also their 6100 line? Compared to Amsoil?
I've been using 6100 10w-40 most of the time, and switch to 300V 15w-50 when the car is going to be taking a beating.
I've always thought ester based oil's were the best way to go, do you agree?
I've been using 6100 10w-40 most of the time, and switch to 300V 15w-50 when the car is going to be taking a beating.
I've always thought ester based oil's were the best way to go, do you agree?
Motul 300V is a very good oil. I will link to an oil test for Motor Cyccle oils for a comparison which has Motul 300 in it.
I hope you will understand that the difference between M/C oil and Auto oil is nil for what we are looking at here.
www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
I am pretty sure Motul is a PAO Based oil WITH Esters added just as AMSOIL is.
Volatility, Shear, TBN, and 4-Ball wear is where I would be looking at in tests.
Doc
I hope you will understand that the difference between M/C oil and Auto oil is nil for what we are looking at here.
www.amsoil.com/lit/g2156.pdf
I am pretty sure Motul is a PAO Based oil WITH Esters added just as AMSOIL is.
Volatility, Shear, TBN, and 4-Ball wear is where I would be looking at in tests.
Doc
