Stock Intake Box
K&N Drop-In
RexPeed Carbon Fiber Intake Cover
APS Diverter Valve
FP 20gGreen
eBay FrontMount
Bigger Lower IC Pipe
Stock Upper IC Pipe
MBC @ 23 PSI
BuddyClub 272/272
Buschur Dual ValveSpring Set
Fidanza Adjustable Cam Gears
Stage 1 Exedy Race Clutch
Custom TBE
RC 750cc Injectors
Walbro 255LPH

an unbelievable 287whp and 277wtrq. unbelievable. torque falls off at about 4200rpm. i think i made more horsepower last year on stock cams and a stock turbo. i have such a hard time trying to beat my bro's STi compared to last year. any input? this is real low for a 20g-lt and cams.
baseline with all mods put down 220whp. that, i mean is what stock evo's put down about. LSE's shop MR put down 240.

something must be wrong and i guess i won't stop unitl i find it...but i am posting this to get some input.

i've already checked the cam angle sensor and everything is good. i will check again. cam gears are 0/0.
boost shot to 26psi and tapers to 20, according to my gauge. josh at LSE logged 24 tapering to 20. he did spend a lot of time on my car though, really appreciate it. any advice would really help me out.

 

Well, it appears you've combined some good mods with some not-so-good mods, so maybe they aren't working well together. The 20g-LT is great, but why an Ebay FMIC and Buddy Club cams? Of all the proven parts out there, I don't see why you'd choose a great turbo but then choose shoddy supporting mods.

We can't really help, though, without more info. You didn't say the type of dyno, the correction factor, the AFRs, no dynograph, no mention of timing or knock, octane, boost leak test, etc etc.

 

thanks.
it was on a dynodynamics 450 "lowboy" (www.lseperformance.com), the guy didn't add any correction factors in, as what he told me. afr's were in the mid 11's and he said knock count was 4-5. he said it was ok because for every 3 knocks, the ecu pulls 1degree timing. i thought it was too much. 92pump gas, i was shooting for just 22 psi but he said he wanted to turn it up. i thought 22 would be plenty for power. i'll try to get a scan of my graph. thanks.

 

Doesn't sound like that guy knows what he's doing. 92oct and wanting to run higher boost while knocking? That makes no sense to me, and your results agree.

You want no knock and no timing retard due to knock.

Yes, DDs read very low, but they also have built-in correction factors unless the guy turned them off, and even if you convert this to Dynojet numbers, it's still pretty weak.

 

exactly. it is very low. he said he turned the correction factors off.
like i said baseline pull was 220 and torque fell off way faster than as what i have now. i had a flash in before he tuned it too but that was long time ago.

 

If you have no real Evo tuners in the area, then try doing an email customized tune if you have your own logging equipment.

 

my dynograph

 

WOW, yes, that is a very strange and extreme torque drop. Something is wrong with the car, but hopefully it's just a boost leak (or multiple boost leaks). It could be the tuning, but it's hard to say...

 

yes, but don't you think that even if it is a boost leak, or multiple ones, i probably wouldn't get any closer to 300peak hp? i suppose if it was a leak, the car wouldn't be hitting the load cells that are in the range if there wasn't a leak, then maybe i could get more up top and fix that insane torque drop. but first, leak test!
thanks warrtalon.

 

I'm not sure what you're asking.

 

nevermind
thanks anyways