misfire prob, need help
well i know for a fact there is no knock because when tuning it on the road i watched the computer and it read 0 on the knock count. my afr's were at 10 and 11 but i wanted them leaned out a bit more because that was rich. and according to aem wideband and the little colored LED's, its in the green and yellow not red, i dont know how you think thats lean. dont like running pig rich because the plugs i use cost me $65 a set. as for the 9 ecu, i was told thats what was going in the car to try to take care of the prob., obviously that wasnt the case. when youre told something is being put on your car you kinda think thats what is being put on. sorry i dont live and breath these things day and night i have a life. i can only give my cars info based on what is told to me, now whether its right or wrong is another thing.thanks for the input though
You said you're running 12.5-13.5, which is EXTREMELY lean. How else would I think you're running lean? I'm basing it off your claimed AFRs. Now, you say you're watching the little LEDs? Those are not useful - it's the number that's useful. 11s are not rich at all - that's where your AFRs should be. 10s are rich and 12-13s are engine-blowing lean.
You should be using copper plugs anyway. They less than $8/set and can handle high boost MUCH better.
Oh, you're saying that in order to have a life, that means we can't know the details of what we purchase and put on our cars? Mmmm, k. Good one. I don't see how on Earth you could not know what ECU you purchased and had put on your car. If you didn't purchase it, and the shop just swapped it from some other random car themselves, then perhaps you need to take a timeout from your "life" and take care of your money pit of a car.
You should be using copper plugs anyway. They less than $8/set and can handle high boost MUCH better.
Oh, you're saying that in order to have a life, that means we can't know the details of what we purchase and put on our cars? Mmmm, k. Good one. I don't see how on Earth you could not know what ECU you purchased and had put on your car. If you didn't purchase it, and the shop just swapped it from some other random car themselves, then perhaps you need to take a timeout from your "life" and take care of your money pit of a car.
i know the details of whats on my car, the prob is when the shop i take my car to said there gonna swap my ecu for a 9 and see if that takes car of my prob, you to would prob think you have a 9 ecu on your car unless you know the difference between the two right??? not really a need to know the difference between the way the 2 ecu's look right!!! i know they do different things but until you actually see a ecu come out of a 9 and a 8 and compare them side by side, you to would believe what the shop told you until someone told you different. im not trying to sound like a wise a$$ but that is the way you are coming off and all im asking if for some help on a prob with my car. actually my #'s are in the 11's @ wot and 12-13 putzing around town. my egts never get above 13-13.5 @ wot. and what copper plugs are you talkin about? what gap? i dont think this is gonna help my prob tho.
Well plugs can most certainly help your problem since a misfire is most of the time directly related to the plugs. First ditch those crappy denso plugs, I would never let those touch my car. Go to the auto store and get you some good all NGK BRP8ES copper plugs. They conduct spark the best and are good for boosted cars. Gap it to around .024-.026. Now your car may have what I call PHANTOM misfire, this is when too much timing is added at idle to help a car gain vaccumm to idle better because of cams and it those a misfire code that is not real. The ses light will on come during idle if this is the case. Now if you are driving and your car stumbles and then the ses light comes on this is a real misfire and you need to get it fixed asap before you do some real damage. The misfire may well be from those crappy plugs you got.
Well, see that's the problem. This is what you said earlier:
It took us 12 more posts to get you to say that your AFRs at WOT are really in the 11s. Your AFRs should not be 12.5-13.5 when cruising either - they should be hovering around 14.7. Now, I hope you can see why I don't put much value in what you're telling us, because you don't really seem to know. It's further exemplified by the fact you're using Denso Iridium plugs on an Evo running 30psi. That's some pure craziness. Then, when I mention copper plugs, you act like you've never heard of such a thing when 95% of the Evo community uses them for high boost applications...
+1 to Scott - BPR8ES gapped to .024-.026. Do it tomorrow and see how it feels.
my afr's are around 12.5-13.5 at wot and 30-32psi with 0 knock
+1 to Scott - BPR8ES gapped to .024-.026. Do it tomorrow and see how it feels.
your right warrtalon, my afr's are mid 14's up to mid 15's cruising. i just looked at it today and @wot its 11.5 and when it hits 30psi im at around 10.7. and i swear i dont have any knock because i was holding the laptop while my car was being tuned and it was always at 0 on knock. im running meth to. i had knock until i put the meth kit on. i tried the bpr8es and they just dont feel like they are as respnsive as the iridiums. al from dynoflash or whatever the company is suggested these plugs, thats why i run them, they are denso iridiums IW24#4. did some more researching and i guess its the p o s quartermaster clutch that is throwing the code, because the flywheel is to light and alll the chatter it makes ='s random misfire. thanks for all the input. anyone want to buy a 1 month old quartermaster with no launches and no track time, just daily driven with about 1500 miles on it.


