dealer trying to blame stalling on my boost gauge
dealer trying to blame stalling on my boost gauge
Dude,
I have had it with Peachtree Mitsubishi. I had my stock evo towed in for the second time in less than a month after it stalled out on me at a light and would not restart.
First time it happend was one day after I hooked up the boost gauge (not the lighting just the mechanical portion to read boost and vacume). I unhooked the gauge to see if it may be leeking but the car still would not restart. They tightened up all the hose clamps and said the turbo inlet hose was loose so I figured all was well. I spoke to the regional rep that day about where to pickup the vacume/boost signal from and a few days latter plummbed the boost gauge back in and followed Jedi's wiring and just picked up the power from the insturment cluster fuse in the fuse box (plugged the wire in under the fuse on the top side of the fuse box) as a temporary hookup. Like this:
http://www.jonesland.com/evo/BoostGauge_Install.htm
Installed a turbo timer (greddy black) using a greddy harness and only tapped the e-brake wire.
A few days latter the car died on me again and I had it towed back in again. they have spent two days trouble shooting and found a blown relay and a burnt resistor. One guy said they replaced the ecu and everything was fine. Another said they replaced the ecu and everything was not fine and that the problem was the "after market parts I had installed".
I told him that did not make any sense cause the electronics on the boost gauge were not hooked up until after the first time the car did this. And I had never heard of a turbo timmer or a boost gauge causeing this kind of problem. He said it was drawing too much amperage (did he even look at the bulb inside the boost gauge???) and causing the problem. I told him he was going to have to prove that to me since the only circuit I touched was for the insturment cluster.
So what side of the fuwse box is fused??? If you are kneeling by the driver door looking at the fuse box (behind the personal storage box) top row where the gauge icon is (7.5 amp fuse) is the top side of the block the raw feed or the fused output????
I have had it with Peachtree Mitsubishi. I had my stock evo towed in for the second time in less than a month after it stalled out on me at a light and would not restart.
First time it happend was one day after I hooked up the boost gauge (not the lighting just the mechanical portion to read boost and vacume). I unhooked the gauge to see if it may be leeking but the car still would not restart. They tightened up all the hose clamps and said the turbo inlet hose was loose so I figured all was well. I spoke to the regional rep that day about where to pickup the vacume/boost signal from and a few days latter plummbed the boost gauge back in and followed Jedi's wiring and just picked up the power from the insturment cluster fuse in the fuse box (plugged the wire in under the fuse on the top side of the fuse box) as a temporary hookup. Like this:
http://www.jonesland.com/evo/BoostGauge_Install.htm
Installed a turbo timer (greddy black) using a greddy harness and only tapped the e-brake wire.
A few days latter the car died on me again and I had it towed back in again. they have spent two days trouble shooting and found a blown relay and a burnt resistor. One guy said they replaced the ecu and everything was fine. Another said they replaced the ecu and everything was not fine and that the problem was the "after market parts I had installed".
I told him that did not make any sense cause the electronics on the boost gauge were not hooked up until after the first time the car did this. And I had never heard of a turbo timmer or a boost gauge causeing this kind of problem. He said it was drawing too much amperage (did he even look at the bulb inside the boost gauge???) and causing the problem. I told him he was going to have to prove that to me since the only circuit I touched was for the insturment cluster.
So what side of the fuwse box is fused??? If you are kneeling by the driver door looking at the fuse box (behind the personal storage box) top row where the gauge icon is (7.5 amp fuse) is the top side of the block the raw feed or the fused output????
Last edited by Mad_SB; Jul 2, 2003 at 09:39 AM.
Evolving Member
Joined: Jun 2003
Posts: 130
Likes: 0
From: Maryland
Run a seperate power wire, relay, barrel fuse and then you won't have to worry about something like that again since it will only use the 12volt switched for a signal and not to actually power the gauge or gauges. On my subaru I take the 12 switched feed from the little light around the cig lighter since it only comes on with the parking lights.
Update,
Ok. they never found a blow relay or resistor. They replaced the ecu and plugged the turbo timmer and boost gauge back in and the car ran fine for a while then died again. They unhooked the boost gauge and turbo timer and the car ran fine again.
Personally I tend to think the issue is related to a bad connector or ground on one of the factory parts. I'm gonna leave everything unhooked for the time being and see if the problem returns. If it does the shop manager said he would get me a refund on my bill form this time.
Unless the turbo timmer is caput or has a bad ground I don't see how this could be a culprit as I used the greddy plugin harness. But if it in someway is modifying the voltage the ECU sees that could explain it. I guess.
Ok. they never found a blow relay or resistor. They replaced the ecu and plugged the turbo timmer and boost gauge back in and the car ran fine for a while then died again. They unhooked the boost gauge and turbo timer and the car ran fine again.
Personally I tend to think the issue is related to a bad connector or ground on one of the factory parts. I'm gonna leave everything unhooked for the time being and see if the problem returns. If it does the shop manager said he would get me a refund on my bill form this time.
Unless the turbo timmer is caput or has a bad ground I don't see how this could be a culprit as I used the greddy plugin harness. But if it in someway is modifying the voltage the ECU sees that could explain it. I guess.
