How To: Modding your Evo ~$100 at a time!
Nov 17, 2008, 10:57 AM
#1
How To: Modding your Evo ~$100 at a time!
Brought to you by the MitsuStyle admins:
http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/sho...841#post264841
So, you have a shiny new Evo 8/9. You have one of the best econo-boxes gone wrong ever crafted, and after a while you want to open up the potential the thing has to offer. Like everyone else, you don't have the money for it, or don't know what to do first. Before I go any further, remember: no modification or go-fast part should *ever* trump maintenance. Ever.
Everyone can save up $100. If you can't, then you should not own an Evo. So, here I present to you the compilation of fun little mods that can be done for *about* $100 at a time. It's how we built our Evolutions and its how you can build yours too
Don't be to picky on the order, if you see something you like further on down the line, bump it up, these mods mostly act independently, but also cumulatively with each other. We haven't arranged these in order of importance but rather tried to group them with other related mods.
Free stuff first!
-Clutch pill delete: takes 20 minutes and your stock clutch will last longer and be more precise!
Ecu Hacking: open source (free!) tools are available for modding/patching the stock evo ecu with lots of fun add ons. I will list a few here, but a LOT of time can be devoted to this.
-tephra: NLTS, map switching, knock CEL, valet mode, immobilizer, rear o2 delete, etc. Tephra is an australian dude that has patched *most* of the stock roms with all of these options that he hacked himself. Brilliant dude.
-Intake air temp logging via GM IAT (mrfred)
-Rear o2 delete (skip that o2 fouler!) (pd1)
-Wideband o2 logging (replaces rear o2 sensor, use Innovate LC-1 for ~$180) (mrfred)
-Log boost via evo X map sensor (mrfred)
-direct boost control via evo x map sensor (mrfred)
To do all of the above, you need:
-Tactrix cable: $100, worth every penny. Teach yourself to tune. Start by just logging your car and see what happens!
-Laptop
-EvoScan: use this for logging. $25
Dyno Tune: A very valuable "mod" to get. A professional tune will allow you to achieve the most out of your car in terms of reliable power output and overall running condition. A street tune can be very good, but nothing beats a real dyno-tune. Shane @ DB Performance is the undisputed local tuning king. Plan on your tune costing anywhere from $250-500 depending on your mods and your cars condition, but rest assured its worth every penny.
Exhaust:
First off, don't mess around with a high flow cat; just get a testpipe so you make more power and spend less money.
-Ebay Exhaust: ~$300+ shipped
-AMS (high quality stuff, resonated testpipe $150 extra) Turboback with testpipe
-MAP o2 eliminator downpipe
-Megan Turboback with resonated testpipe
-Perrin Catback Only $380!
Boost gauge (yes you need one):
-Autometer (~$40 from summitracing.com)
-Prosport (MAPerformance, 'Style sponsor) for around $40
Boost control:
Manual Boost Controllers (cheap, effective, and best of all they work with no hassle!):
-Joe P XZ
-Hallman ES
-DB Performance
-Skip the ebay ones here, they are usually sub-par.
ECU Controlled Boost:
-option #1 (warranty friendly):#65 pill ($10-30 in parts- pills available pre-drilled here)
-option #2: Wire in GM BCS (~$70 in parts due to a recent price increase)
If you go the GMBCS route pick up an evo X map sensor for ~$150 to save yourself the hassle of load-based and to just do it right the first time. Omni has also recently released a 4-bar MAP sensor that is able to be had for around $120. Use this with mrfred's direct boost control mod for optimal ecu-controlled boost.
Evo8's set PEAK boost to 21psi (untuned) or 23psi (tuned)
Evo9's set PEAK boost to 22psi (untuned) or 24psi (tuned)
Intake:
This should help decide which intake to purchase for your car: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-results.html
-Vibrant Air Filter kit $38.99 (includes MAF adaptor)
-Perrin Air filter $52 for filter or $72 for filter and MAF adapter
-Perrin Complete Intake Kit $265
-Buschur Intake kit $260
-ETS $189 (low price and genuine K&N air filter!)
Intercooler pipes:
UICP: No measurable gains, mainly for looks and shorter route piping.
LICP: 5-12whp
-Nisei: $150+ (nice quality, mounting bracket)
-ETS LP2: $174+ (shown to make additional power compared to other designs)
-AMS: $303 (mounting bracket, lowest power gains)
O2 housing + port turbine housing:
-Megan o2 housing: ~$100, consistent quality. Get it ceramic coated to keep those under-hood temps down!
-ebay: $60 or so, but you're taking your chances at what you get.
Port the little lip restricting flow out of the wastegate passage, and while you have it out, buy $5 worth of bits at home depot and gasket match the inlets of your turbine housing.
ported exhaust manifold:
-MAP Rev2: $225 or $315 w/ ceramic coating + core (dyno proven to make the most power)
-PPI: $65+ core (wide variety of options)
-DIY: Lots of work, but it can be done.
BOV: VIII guys only
-IX BOV: used for around $80, new for under $150. The IX BOV will hold 25+ psi stock and even more if properly crushed.
Wideband: Innovate LC-1 or PLX, compatible with ECU logging (gauges/displays cost extra)
Injectors: more fuel! Sell your stockers for $100+ on eBay to offset the cost!
-FIC (<$300): 850's & 1050's have been used by us, good idle and drivability.
Fuel Pump: In your first round of mods, do this. Yes it is way worth it. Your stock injectors are good for 300+whp with this mod! Stock VIII fuel pump will only do about 260whp (Dyno Dynamics) but the IX can flow slightly more.
Walbro 255HP: ~$70 at MAP!
E85: Less mileage, less consistency, requires frequent retuning for optimal power, but lots more power potential! 40+whp gains.
IX turbo: +10-15whp for VIII guys. Sell your stock turbo to offset the cost of this.
$350-550, depending on who/what/where. I ended up selling my stock VIII turbo w/ 10.5 hotside for $300 making this a real bargain!
Crankcase Vents:
-MAP Crankcase Vacuum Kit: $45 Lots of benefits, check them out!
Catch-Can:
-eBay: ~$25+ shipped
Coil On Plug ignition setup: leads to a smoother running car and some are claiming power gains
-SpoolinUp: ~$300 shipped (used coil kit)
http://www.mitsustyle.com/forums/sho...841#post264841
So, you have a shiny new Evo 8/9. You have one of the best econo-boxes gone wrong ever crafted, and after a while you want to open up the potential the thing has to offer. Like everyone else, you don't have the money for it, or don't know what to do first. Before I go any further, remember: no modification or go-fast part should *ever* trump maintenance. Ever.
Everyone can save up $100. If you can't, then you should not own an Evo. So, here I present to you the compilation of fun little mods that can be done for *about* $100 at a time. It's how we built our Evolutions and its how you can build yours too
Don't be to picky on the order, if you see something you like further on down the line, bump it up, these mods mostly act independently, but also cumulatively with each other. We haven't arranged these in order of importance but rather tried to group them with other related mods.
Free stuff first!
-Clutch pill delete: takes 20 minutes and your stock clutch will last longer and be more precise!
Ecu Hacking: open source (free!) tools are available for modding/patching the stock evo ecu with lots of fun add ons. I will list a few here, but a LOT of time can be devoted to this.
-tephra: NLTS, map switching, knock CEL, valet mode, immobilizer, rear o2 delete, etc. Tephra is an australian dude that has patched *most* of the stock roms with all of these options that he hacked himself. Brilliant dude.
-Intake air temp logging via GM IAT (mrfred)
-Rear o2 delete (skip that o2 fouler!) (pd1)
-Wideband o2 logging (replaces rear o2 sensor, use Innovate LC-1 for ~$180) (mrfred)
-Log boost via evo X map sensor (mrfred)
-direct boost control via evo x map sensor (mrfred)
To do all of the above, you need:
-Tactrix cable: $100, worth every penny. Teach yourself to tune. Start by just logging your car and see what happens!
-Laptop
-EvoScan: use this for logging. $25
Dyno Tune: A very valuable "mod" to get. A professional tune will allow you to achieve the most out of your car in terms of reliable power output and overall running condition. A street tune can be very good, but nothing beats a real dyno-tune. Shane @ DB Performance is the undisputed local tuning king. Plan on your tune costing anywhere from $250-500 depending on your mods and your cars condition, but rest assured its worth every penny.
Exhaust:
First off, don't mess around with a high flow cat; just get a testpipe so you make more power and spend less money.
-Ebay Exhaust: ~$300+ shipped
-AMS (high quality stuff, resonated testpipe $150 extra) Turboback with testpipe
-MAP o2 eliminator downpipe
-Megan Turboback with resonated testpipe
-Perrin Catback Only $380!
Boost gauge (yes you need one):
-Autometer (~$40 from summitracing.com)
-Prosport (MAPerformance, 'Style sponsor) for around $40
Boost control:
Manual Boost Controllers (cheap, effective, and best of all they work with no hassle!):
-Joe P XZ
-Hallman ES
-DB Performance
-Skip the ebay ones here, they are usually sub-par.
ECU Controlled Boost:
-option #1 (warranty friendly):#65 pill ($10-30 in parts- pills available pre-drilled here)
-option #2: Wire in GM BCS (~$70 in parts due to a recent price increase)
If you go the GMBCS route pick up an evo X map sensor for ~$150 to save yourself the hassle of load-based and to just do it right the first time. Omni has also recently released a 4-bar MAP sensor that is able to be had for around $120. Use this with mrfred's direct boost control mod for optimal ecu-controlled boost.
Evo8's set PEAK boost to 21psi (untuned) or 23psi (tuned)
Evo9's set PEAK boost to 22psi (untuned) or 24psi (tuned)
Intake:
This should help decide which intake to purchase for your car: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...t-results.html
-Vibrant Air Filter kit $38.99 (includes MAF adaptor)
-Perrin Air filter $52 for filter or $72 for filter and MAF adapter
-Perrin Complete Intake Kit $265
-Buschur Intake kit $260
-ETS $189 (low price and genuine K&N air filter!)
Intercooler pipes:
UICP: No measurable gains, mainly for looks and shorter route piping.
LICP: 5-12whp
-Nisei: $150+ (nice quality, mounting bracket)
-ETS LP2: $174+ (shown to make additional power compared to other designs)
-AMS: $303 (mounting bracket, lowest power gains)
O2 housing + port turbine housing:
-Megan o2 housing: ~$100, consistent quality. Get it ceramic coated to keep those under-hood temps down!
-ebay: $60 or so, but you're taking your chances at what you get.
Port the little lip restricting flow out of the wastegate passage, and while you have it out, buy $5 worth of bits at home depot and gasket match the inlets of your turbine housing.
ported exhaust manifold:
-MAP Rev2: $225 or $315 w/ ceramic coating + core (dyno proven to make the most power)
-PPI: $65+ core (wide variety of options)
-DIY: Lots of work, but it can be done.
BOV: VIII guys only
-IX BOV: used for around $80, new for under $150. The IX BOV will hold 25+ psi stock and even more if properly crushed.
Wideband: Innovate LC-1 or PLX, compatible with ECU logging (gauges/displays cost extra)
Injectors: more fuel! Sell your stockers for $100+ on eBay to offset the cost!
-FIC (<$300): 850's & 1050's have been used by us, good idle and drivability.
Fuel Pump: In your first round of mods, do this. Yes it is way worth it. Your stock injectors are good for 300+whp with this mod! Stock VIII fuel pump will only do about 260whp (Dyno Dynamics) but the IX can flow slightly more.
Walbro 255HP: ~$70 at MAP!
E85: Less mileage, less consistency, requires frequent retuning for optimal power, but lots more power potential! 40+whp gains.
IX turbo: +10-15whp for VIII guys. Sell your stock turbo to offset the cost of this.
$350-550, depending on who/what/where. I ended up selling my stock VIII turbo w/ 10.5 hotside for $300 making this a real bargain!
Crankcase Vents:
-MAP Crankcase Vacuum Kit: $45 Lots of benefits, check them out!
Catch-Can:
-eBay: ~$25+ shipped
Coil On Plug ignition setup: leads to a smoother running car and some are claiming power gains
-SpoolinUp: ~$300 shipped (used coil kit)
Last edited by Kracka; Feb 10, 2010 at 01:01 PM.
The following 2 users liked this post by Kracka:
Is2scooby (Sep 27, 2018),
sessanator18 (Sep 28, 2019)
Nov 17, 2008, 10:58 AM
#2
Short Shifter: reduce that shifter throw!
-Ebay/Fidanza Short Shifter ~$30 shipped, includes shifter base bushings! (5-speed only)
Also call Brookdale Mitsu and get $20 in parts to make your install a breeze: Upper pivot cup (part # MR246296 Retainer+gearshif) and #MR232147 (2) tiny cups for ball ends
Shifter Base Bushings: These stiffen up the rubbery base feel of the stock shifter mount. They are INCLUDED in the Ebay/Fidanza short shifter kit listed above.
-Speed Source $29 shipped
Underhood shift bushings: These get rid of the rubbery feeling at the end of the cables. Do the above 3 all at once for the ultimate shifter setup!
-Speed Source $29 shipped
tranny fluid change: Will improve shifting. Change every 15-30k miles depending on conditions.
-Redline Cocktail: 2x MT-90, 1x MTL ~$34 from most retailers
front motor mount: New motor sound and awesome shifting!
-BLOX: $75 shipped. Replaces whole mount, very nice, we use these.
-Buschur, AMS, RRE, etc sell replacement bushings (~$35) if you want to spend some time with a hydraulic press.
Rear Anti-Sway bars: The first step to improving your suspension! Reduces understeer making the car handle more neutral. All are over $100, all are worth it. Unbolt your lower control arms for easy install. All come with new poly bushings.
-RoadRaceEngineering (RRE) $180, billet mounts, track tested.
-Whiteline: $175 shipped (24mm adjustable), reuses stock mounts (preferred by some), best bang for the buck.
-Swift: $210 shipped (non-adjustable), lighter in weight, plenty of R&D to back it up.
Rear Strut-tower bar: increases chassis stiffness, improves stability.
$25 shipped on eBay
Evo RS Trunk Bar: Factory trunk brace on Evo RS models, easy installation.
-Available at any Mitsubishi dealership (be sure to order the needed bolts too)
-MAP: $46.33
Rear Diff Bushings: eliminates rear-end thump, slight noise increase, quicker power transfer to the ground.
-Energy Suspension: $50, includes mustache bar bushings. PITA to install, need to cut/press out old bushings.
-Beatrush: $73, poly inserts, doesn't replace entire stock bushing for quck/easy install.
Driveshaft Bushings: reduce noise, tighten up driveshaft!
-Beatrush: solid aluminum, $76 easy installation
-Torque Solution: solid aluminum, $45
Springs: Lower, improved handling, great looks. Lots to choose from.
-Eibach Pro-kit: $250 (MAP): awesome ride, 1.3"/1.3" drop, progressive spring.
-Swift: $300: like Eibachs, but slightly stiffer. Progressive spring.
-Tein S.Tech <$200: Sexy drop, decent ride comfort, good handling, progressive spring.
Alignment: $60-80 from Jeff (www.thealignmentguy.com) and worth every penny!
Brake Pads:
-GiroDisc Magic Pads: $150 shipped. Goodbye dust, improved stopping power over stock.
-Ferodo DS2500: ~$300 Great street pad, lots of dust but great stopping power!
-RacingBrake ET300/500/700: ~$200+ Great street pads, pick/choose the pad that best fits your needs.
Brake Rotors:
-RotorPros: $245+ Everything from blank to coated, drilled, slotted, colored, etc.
Mini Battery Kit:
-Nisei
-AMS
-ETS
All use similar batteries; Odyssey PC680 and Genesis EP16 are the most common.
Hood Dampers: ditch the prop rod!
-Mynes Performance $60 shipped, work great and look good.
Tint! Everyone wants to roll gangsta
-Street Scenes Tint in Spring Lake Park, MN - <$200 (ask Tien for the MitsuStyle discount) 30% recommended for good looks, but 35% for less attention from the law.
Club stickers to show your allegiance:
-MitsuStyle $5
-Ebay/Fidanza Short Shifter ~$30 shipped, includes shifter base bushings! (5-speed only)
Also call Brookdale Mitsu and get $20 in parts to make your install a breeze: Upper pivot cup (part # MR246296 Retainer+gearshif) and #MR232147 (2) tiny cups for ball ends
Shifter Base Bushings: These stiffen up the rubbery base feel of the stock shifter mount. They are INCLUDED in the Ebay/Fidanza short shifter kit listed above.
-Speed Source $29 shipped
Underhood shift bushings: These get rid of the rubbery feeling at the end of the cables. Do the above 3 all at once for the ultimate shifter setup!
-Speed Source $29 shipped
tranny fluid change: Will improve shifting. Change every 15-30k miles depending on conditions.
-Redline Cocktail: 2x MT-90, 1x MTL ~$34 from most retailers
front motor mount: New motor sound and awesome shifting!
-BLOX: $75 shipped. Replaces whole mount, very nice, we use these.
-Buschur, AMS, RRE, etc sell replacement bushings (~$35) if you want to spend some time with a hydraulic press.
Rear Anti-Sway bars: The first step to improving your suspension! Reduces understeer making the car handle more neutral. All are over $100, all are worth it. Unbolt your lower control arms for easy install. All come with new poly bushings.
-RoadRaceEngineering (RRE) $180, billet mounts, track tested.
-Whiteline: $175 shipped (24mm adjustable), reuses stock mounts (preferred by some), best bang for the buck.
-Swift: $210 shipped (non-adjustable), lighter in weight, plenty of R&D to back it up.
Rear Strut-tower bar: increases chassis stiffness, improves stability.
$25 shipped on eBay
Evo RS Trunk Bar: Factory trunk brace on Evo RS models, easy installation.
-Available at any Mitsubishi dealership (be sure to order the needed bolts too)
-MAP: $46.33
Rear Diff Bushings: eliminates rear-end thump, slight noise increase, quicker power transfer to the ground.
-Energy Suspension: $50, includes mustache bar bushings. PITA to install, need to cut/press out old bushings.
-Beatrush: $73, poly inserts, doesn't replace entire stock bushing for quck/easy install.
Driveshaft Bushings: reduce noise, tighten up driveshaft!
-Beatrush: solid aluminum, $76 easy installation
-Torque Solution: solid aluminum, $45
Springs: Lower, improved handling, great looks. Lots to choose from.
-Eibach Pro-kit: $250 (MAP): awesome ride, 1.3"/1.3" drop, progressive spring.
-Swift: $300: like Eibachs, but slightly stiffer. Progressive spring.
-Tein S.Tech <$200: Sexy drop, decent ride comfort, good handling, progressive spring.
Alignment: $60-80 from Jeff (www.thealignmentguy.com) and worth every penny!
Brake Pads:
-GiroDisc Magic Pads: $150 shipped. Goodbye dust, improved stopping power over stock.
-Ferodo DS2500: ~$300 Great street pad, lots of dust but great stopping power!
-RacingBrake ET300/500/700: ~$200+ Great street pads, pick/choose the pad that best fits your needs.
Brake Rotors:
-RotorPros: $245+ Everything from blank to coated, drilled, slotted, colored, etc.
Mini Battery Kit:
-Nisei
-AMS
-ETS
All use similar batteries; Odyssey PC680 and Genesis EP16 are the most common.
Hood Dampers: ditch the prop rod!
-Mynes Performance $60 shipped, work great and look good.
Tint! Everyone wants to roll gangsta
-Street Scenes Tint in Spring Lake Park, MN - <$200 (ask Tien for the MitsuStyle discount) 30% recommended for good looks, but 35% for less attention from the law.
Club stickers to show your allegiance:
-MitsuStyle $5
Last edited by Kracka; Feb 6, 2011 at 08:21 AM.
The following users liked this post:
Is2scooby (Mar 14, 2018)
The following users liked this post:
Is2scooby (Mar 14, 2018)
Nov 17, 2008, 11:14 AM
#5
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Great list guys. This should take care of all those silly questions people have from time to time. I am guilty of having those silly questions myself. haha
Trending Topics
Nov 17, 2008, 11:26 AM
#8
I have to disagree on the IX DV, APS twin vent is another one. my friend has minor flutter with his IX DV and I heard it. not every IX DV will hold 28psi mine didn't even hold 23 psi.
And you shouldn't recommend mini battery, a lot people don't have success with them. I'll give you a suggestion, MIATA BATTERY! bigger than mini battery but it'll allow after market short route UICP and still has good reliability. The Westco one is the decent one, STRONGER than OEM MIATA battery.
And you can't buy the tactrix cable for $100 anymore, the new version cost $170~
And you shouldn't recommend mini battery, a lot people don't have success with them. I'll give you a suggestion, MIATA BATTERY! bigger than mini battery but it'll allow after market short route UICP and still has good reliability. The Westco one is the decent one, STRONGER than OEM MIATA battery.
And you can't buy the tactrix cable for $100 anymore, the new version cost $170~
Nov 17, 2008, 12:25 PM
#12
I have to disagree on the IX DV, APS twin vent is another one. my friend has minor flutter with his IX DV and I heard it. not every IX DV will hold 28psi mine didn't even hold 23 psi.
And you shouldn't recommend mini battery, a lot people don't have success with them. I'll give you a suggestion, MIATA BATTERY! bigger than mini battery but it'll allow after market short route UICP and still has good reliability. The Westco one is the decent one, STRONGER than OEM MIATA battery.
And you can't buy the tactrix cable for $100 anymore, the new version cost $170~
And you shouldn't recommend mini battery, a lot people don't have success with them. I'll give you a suggestion, MIATA BATTERY! bigger than mini battery but it'll allow after market short route UICP and still has good reliability. The Westco one is the decent one, STRONGER than OEM MIATA battery.
And you can't buy the tactrix cable for $100 anymore, the new version cost $170~
http://www.limitless.co.nz/
Last edited by Kracka; Nov 17, 2008 at 12:29 PM.
