I am considering the following project, I am curious what some on the forums might think this is capable of. Maybe some of you have a similar set up or know the gains.
Here:
Mil.Spec high flow cat: $319.00
Fluidampr Pully: $250~350.00
Equal Length Manifold stock version: $899.00+$250.00
3"Downpipe $200.00 ~
02 Housing: $238.95
Intercooler kit, UPIP (is there a recalculating bov pipe needed on stock bov?): $1265.00~+$35.00
Mini Battery kit: $219.00
Intake: $227.90
Not including BOV and tune: $3898.85
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I appologize for not mention this earlier (I hate posts that forget to mention important details myself). I will be running 91 and 93 octane and I already have a 3" Catback. Due to flash only, I will be running ECU controlled boost. I don't plan on running anything that will open up the block... unless the absolute:ARP Headstuds for insurance.
Hence the conservative combination. This will just be my happy cruise car... I like cars to drive that put a smile on my face... as well as others. I don't have to be the guy with everything in the world or die.

 

Do you already have a 3 inch catback exhaust? Get a MBC or use ECU controlled boost. I'd go with a test pipe over the Cat if you can in Houston. You have most of the basic bolt-ons listed there. I'd ditch the Fluidampr??, the Manifold, and the Mini Battery. If it's going to be a pure street car send your turbo to CBRD and get their BBK. If you have cash left over cash get some cams.

 

If you got a test pipe the computer read out on your emissions would read "epic fail." That is unless you slip the state inspector a 20.

 

ditch the pulley, get a test pipe.. not sure how emissions testing works in tx

where are you getting these prices from? they seem really really high

 

Ha! Best thing I've heard EVAR!

 

I will consider the BBK.

 

im getting a fluidampr and this is why as i was told. MAKES as huge difference above 6k

Why your engine needs a damper
Each time the air/fuel mixture inside a cylinder is ignited, the combustion that occurs creates a torque spike that is applied to the crankshaft through the piston and rod. This torque spike is so severe that it not only turns the crankshaft, it actually twists the crankshaft ahead of its normal rotation and then the crankshaft rebounds. This twisting action is known as torsional vibration. When these torque spikes and forces get into phase with the natural frequency, critical torsional harmonic vibrations occur and can be seriously destructive to the bearings and the crankshaft. Dampers are designed to control those destructive vibrations.

Rubber VS Silicone Fluid
Critical harmonic vibrations occur numerous times in a engine’s operating range. Stock rubber and elastomer-type dampers are frequency sensitive “tuned absorbers”, and work at only one critical frequency. In the case of a stock rubber damper, it is tuned for a factory engine’s critical harmonic vibrations. If you change the mass of pistons, rods, or the crankshaft, you change the natural frequency of the crankshaft assembly; therefore, the stock damper is no longer tuned to the new frequency of vibration, and you may be headed for early failure of expensive engine components. Dampers also create heat while they work, and rubber is a poor dissipator of heat. This heat and the exposure to the elements deteriorates rubber, causing it to crack and change durometer, which then leads to inertia ring slippage, damper failure, uncontrolled torsional vibration, and costly engine parts breakage.

also to the op those prices are EXTREMELY HIGH you need to resouce your parts as you can get way better prices then that seriously

 

Read the Mod sticky or $100 at a time thread. Search the Dyno forum of similar mods.

Closed.