Gawdammit. Now i've got to spend MORE money? Does it ever end? As far as I can see the full blown only has 2 vacuum lines coming out. I've got the boost gauge teed off the larger line that goes to the synchronic DV and the two EGR lines that came off the stock manifold are teed off another line that is teed off of the boost gauge line!

and this is what the synchronic DV's instruction manual has to say about that:

"You will need to locate a vacuum source that is directly connected
to the intake manifold after the throttle body. It is preferable that the
Synchronic DV have its own vacuum source. If you need to tee the
vacuum source, please insure that the straight section of the tee is in
direct communication with the Synchronic DV. See diagram below.
You will also want to make sure that the vacuum source to the DV is
not shared with other pneumatic actuators such as wastegates, EGR
valves[, BOOST GAUGES], etc."

Is it any wonder that my prosport boost gauge is slow as molasses, my EGR system threw a code yesterday and my DV is fluttering and bucking like hell scaring the crap out of me.

*sigh*

I guess I'd better get a vacuum block.

Thanks for the link.

 

was your MAP intake manifold shaved? my car came with the mitsu boost gauge and they tee'd it from this spot

its the tee by the engine dipstick


assuming that your intake manifold has this port. try it and see if it helps.

 

Thats the fuel pressure regulator. Not a good idea to tap into that even though Mitsu does.

 

i have a black full-race vacuum block that im selling if you need one. $25 shipped and it has the barbed fittings. p.m. me if interested.

 

I think you just saved me $50.00.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9969131@N03/6778667942/
you can see the orange boost gauge line and filter in the photo.

From the other side, you can see the cluster **** that is "teed off of teed off of" connected to the boost gauge filter in the next photo.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/9969131@N03/6778665836/
Doing it your way will clean up my bay and give me good solid boost gauge response. Additionally, there's one other line on the right (you can see it just above the yellow and green zip ties) I can use to run the EGR off of and have a dedicated DV line, as per the instructions.

Thank you very much, that's my weekend project!!

 

no problem, hopefully it works well for you. like i said that is where my factory boost gauge was tee'd from. theres probably better places but this has worked for me.

also make sure your EGR lines that are under your intake manifold (under TB) are all connected. they like to pop off.

where is your vacuum line for your DV?

the one port where you have the tee with the green zipties (last pic) that should be your dedicated port for vacuum for your DV

 

*sigh* foiled again.

thank you very much.

 

In the second pic, the green zip ties are both on the DV line where it's teed off to the boost gauge. It runs along the right side of the valve cover to the DV on top of the intake.

 

Does that come with plugs?

 

ok

 

yeah, it has plugs and i have spare hose barb fittings to go with it too.

 

wjamyers...You shouldn't T into your BOV line, it should really have its own vacuum source coming from the intake manifold...That's probably why your having issues with it...

 

yes, everything should have its own source. with the exception of egr and evap purge, screw them!

 

wizzo,

just out of curiosity why would teeing from the regulator be a bad idea? i guess im thinking since its just a gauge which just responds to pressure differences. wouldnt it be the same as tapping to the intake manifold and grabbing it from there since the regulator's source is the manifold.

not trying to question you, just want to clarify what im thinking

 

The fuel pressure regulator wont respond as quickly because the boost pressure has to fill the line to the boost gauge and the fuel pressure regulator at the same time. Yea it might only be a fraction of a second but its still a delay. During this delay you will be running lean.