So did you re-use the factory head bolts? did you clean the holes in the block? There's a lot of little details that can cause this to happen.

 

i reused my factory bolts and no i didn't look in the holes for debris. i was excited it was going back together and didn't take time to check things like that.

 

Use a new head gasket now that that one has been compressed as well. Also for arp studs install the studs tighten head down with old gasket in 3 step sequence to spec, loosen in 3 step sequence then remove bolts and head, install new head gasket then tighten to specs in 3 stage sequence then you should be good to go assuming your deck surface and cyl head are flat. good luck.

 

Whats the purpose of snugging them down with the old headgasket, then removing everything and throwing a new gasket on??

Ive been playin wth evos for 3 yrs now, dsms for 7, never heard of this?

 

I feel bad but it seems like you created the problem yourself. Take the head back off and see what's left of the bolt. Then get a manual to help you assemble it by the book. Make sure you clean all the holes, as someone had asked. Having debris on the bottom of the bolt holes will cause this problem if the bolt bottoms out before getting tight on the head. Might also wanna check you torque wrench for accuracy.

 

first, why are you even tightening the head bolts in that pattern, i posted the pattern for you yesterday and you still just go and tighten them in the wrong pattern. at least its your car, not mine.

second, YOU NEVER REUSE HEAD BOLTS

should've just did headstuds why the head was off and had the extra reassurance also

 

The head bolts are designed for torque to yield. In other words you are near breaking them when they are torqued properly. While this is the strongest way to go it makes the bolts one time use only.

 

Because arp's stretch first use resulting in leak. Once tightened the way I advised you do not use them again. that part is correct. For FACTORY bolts you just torque to yield with new gasket proper sequence etc. sorry about the confusion. Good luck.

 

I have never heard of that? Not saying you are wrong, jsut the first time I have heard of them stretching the first time. I used my apr headstuds on my 1g dsm 3 times. Everytime, I torqued them to 90 ft lbs, never had any leaks.

 

It may only be necessary for high psi hp set ups. either way that is the route to have the job finished correctly the first time. but the way this guy sounds, To me it sounds like he more than not will be having other issues as well after the head stud issue is resolved for example head may be bent slightly cracked be it whatever if you don't install vital engine components without properly checking things out / machining when necessary to get in correct tolerances, You're more likely than not going to fail at your set up possibly installing things " Blindly " under your backyard tree you may be using for shade.. lol

 

It may suck paying to put in new studs and head gasket, but this will prevent larger/more expensive problems down the road. Do it right the first time.

 

Were you reinstalling stock headstuds that have been used? You shouldnt do that

You should have stopped at the first head stud that was causing you problems.

Also you have to watch what your doing to make sure the bolt is going in strait and not cross threading

 

another thing to consider too op is to make sure your torque wrench is actually torquing at the lb/ft it says it is....you can take it to autozone or another parts store, and some of them have a display where you can check the tq spec and make sure what your wrench says it what it is...your best man, tow the vehicle to a pro shop, and youll pay out the *** but at least itll be fixed in the end, sounds like some drilling removing and tapping some head to block threads will be in order, well if that be the case, then might as well have it done by a pro have the new block threads be able to accept the L19 arp head studs...good luck op

 

ARP states that any of their hardware (non stretch) can be reused as necessary (which means as many times as needed), this is the tech support I personally got when I called them directly. That however is only good if you are the one who has used them and torqued them properly their entire life....

In support, I have reused my ARP headstuds on my VW at least 5 times

 

For most yield joints, the yield stress is ~70% of the fracture breaking strength of the hardware, so its not like you are right on the limit of breaking, unless the bolt is reused and already deformed....
In my experience in joint design yield bolts are used in clamp zones that change height/thickness (reducing clamp force) because of compression from gaskets or from softer materials that crush... IE, headgasket