0 Vacuum at idle HELP!
Sep 30, 2012, 12:27 AM
#1
0 Vacuum at idle HELP!
My car is cursed to say the least.
I put in GSC3 cams everything is on correctly "Triple checked" when i installed them idle, and drove fine. vacuum -14 / - 16
2 days later did a WOT pulls the car would fuel cut for a quick second then be fine. If i hit the throttle above 4,000 RPM it would not fuel cut but under 4,000RPM it did.
About a week later it was doing it more often fuel cutting for a split second. took the car to the track and something bad happened i put it into 3rd gear and my A/F's went from 11.8 to 10.5 and felt like i lost 200hp. when i got done the pass car idled at 500RPM, backfires, stalls out ect. MY CEL light came on saying camshaft sensor.
I replaced it today and NO LUCK still doing it. I did a boost leak test, leak down test, again checked the timing and cams, checked/changed the spark plugs, NO CEL light anymore but still doing it idling at 500rpm it dosnt like starting.
IF SOMEONE CAN ANSWER THIS THEY MIGHT NOW HOW TO SOLVE MY PROBLEM! MY CAR READS IN IDLE 0 VACUUM AND IDLES IN LIKE A LIMP MODE 500 RPM .. if i drive it n try to boost it, it feels like it has a hard time holding boost and fells really slow. vacuum while driving is -18 aka normal, but it feels like sh*t to drive.
UPDATE: What is NOT! Boost Leak Tested, Compression Tested, Leak Down Tested, Both Camshaft Angle Sensor Replaced, Injectors looked good, Spark Plugs Changed, Turbo is Fine, Replaced Coils with Spark Tech non-COP, Omni 4 Bar Map Sensor, FPR , Crank angle sensor.
WHAT IT MIGHT BE! Tom pulled the head off. The Crank Pulley looked in time, but behind it the triggle plate was off causing my car to be not at a true TDC. It is about 3/4 of a inch off. See post #114
Any idea's of what it could be would be greatly appreciated
This one is a high revving Video
I put in GSC3 cams everything is on correctly "Triple checked" when i installed them idle, and drove fine. vacuum -14 / - 16
2 days later did a WOT pulls the car would fuel cut for a quick second then be fine. If i hit the throttle above 4,000 RPM it would not fuel cut but under 4,000RPM it did.
About a week later it was doing it more often fuel cutting for a split second. took the car to the track and something bad happened i put it into 3rd gear and my A/F's went from 11.8 to 10.5 and felt like i lost 200hp. when i got done the pass car idled at 500RPM, backfires, stalls out ect. MY CEL light came on saying camshaft sensor.
I replaced it today and NO LUCK still doing it. I did a boost leak test, leak down test, again checked the timing and cams, checked/changed the spark plugs, NO CEL light anymore but still doing it idling at 500rpm it dosnt like starting.
IF SOMEONE CAN ANSWER THIS THEY MIGHT NOW HOW TO SOLVE MY PROBLEM! MY CAR READS IN IDLE 0 VACUUM AND IDLES IN LIKE A LIMP MODE 500 RPM .. if i drive it n try to boost it, it feels like it has a hard time holding boost and fells really slow. vacuum while driving is -18 aka normal, but it feels like sh*t to drive.
UPDATE: What is NOT! Boost Leak Tested, Compression Tested, Leak Down Tested, Both Camshaft Angle Sensor Replaced, Injectors looked good, Spark Plugs Changed, Turbo is Fine, Replaced Coils with Spark Tech non-COP, Omni 4 Bar Map Sensor, FPR , Crank angle sensor.
WHAT IT MIGHT BE! Tom pulled the head off. The Crank Pulley looked in time, but behind it the triggle plate was off causing my car to be not at a true TDC. It is about 3/4 of a inch off. See post #114
Any idea's of what it could be would be greatly appreciated
This one is a high revving Video
Last edited by 5LEEPERISAH23I; Nov 4, 2012 at 01:59 PM.
Sep 30, 2012, 10:34 AM
#3
- i did 3 boost leak tests up to 30 PSI that is not the problem. "The boost gauge was reading 30 psi also i the gauge is reading correctly.
- i have a brand new share FPR i could but that in and see if it does anything doubt it tho but i could try.
- the 0 Vacuum and idling at 500 RPM is really throwing me for a loop i just dont no what the means.
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Oct 1, 2012, 05:02 PM
#10
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Hey man i dont mean to cut into this guys thread but real quick. Its normal when doing a pressure check for your psi to slowly fall? When i do mine to 30psi it takes prolly 30 seconds or more to fall to zero. So ur saying thats normal? I was hoping so cuz when test i dont hear any leaks or when i do a soap bubble test i dont get anything.
Oct 1, 2012, 05:04 PM
#11
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Hey man i dont mean to cut into this guys thread but real quick. Its normal when doing a pressure check for your psi to slowly fall? When i do mine to 30psi it takes prolly 30 seconds or more to fall to zero. So ur saying thats normal? I was hoping so cuz when test i dont hear any leaks or when i do a soap bubble test i dont get anything.
Oct 1, 2012, 06:23 PM
#12
Evolved Member
I'd suggest pulling the timing belt cover and seeing if the timing marks all line up. A belt that has jumped a tooth or two would explain the loss of hp and the low vacuum at idle. BTW, your vacuum isn't zero. If it was the engine would not run. Your gauge is off.
Oct 1, 2012, 07:12 PM
#13
i did the following to this car:
compression tested it
boost leak tested it (found tons of leaks & fixed)
leak down tested it
the only thing i didnt do yet was pressurize the intake manifold directly, which will most likely show the culprit here.
however you dont need to remove the lower timing cover to know whether the engines in time, because theres a notch on the outside crank pulley that will align with the (T) on the lower timing cover. i planned on removing the cover anyways though just to check down there and make sure nothing went wrong.
a gauge can read 0 vacuum on these non detailed gauges.. if its less then two pounds per square inch of pressure where the gauge is tapped it will read 0 vacuum.
thanks for giving help though guys.. ill have the car soon if he cant figure it out himself at his house based on things i tell him to check.
were currently doing some testing on the ignition.
compression tested it
boost leak tested it (found tons of leaks & fixed)
leak down tested it
the only thing i didnt do yet was pressurize the intake manifold directly, which will most likely show the culprit here.
however you dont need to remove the lower timing cover to know whether the engines in time, because theres a notch on the outside crank pulley that will align with the (T) on the lower timing cover. i planned on removing the cover anyways though just to check down there and make sure nothing went wrong.
a gauge can read 0 vacuum on these non detailed gauges.. if its less then two pounds per square inch of pressure where the gauge is tapped it will read 0 vacuum.
thanks for giving help though guys.. ill have the car soon if he cant figure it out himself at his house based on things i tell him to check.
were currently doing some testing on the ignition.
Last edited by tscompusa; Oct 1, 2012 at 07:23 PM.
Oct 1, 2012, 07:57 PM
#14
i did the following to this car:
compression tested it
boost leak tested it (found tons of leaks & fixed)
leak down tested it
the only thing i didnt do yet was pressurize the intake manifold directly, which will most likely show the culprit here.
however you dont need to remove the lower timing cover to know whether the engines in time, because theres a notch on the outside crank pulley that will align with the (T) on the lower timing cover. i planned on removing the cover anyways though just to check down there and make sure nothing went wrong.
a gauge can read 0 vacuum on these non detailed gauges.. if its less then two pounds per square inch of pressure where the gauge is tapped it will read 0 vacuum.
thanks for giving help though guys.. ill have the car soon if he cant figure it out himself at his house based on things i tell him to check.
were currently doing some testing on the ignition.
compression tested it
boost leak tested it (found tons of leaks & fixed)
leak down tested it
the only thing i didnt do yet was pressurize the intake manifold directly, which will most likely show the culprit here.
however you dont need to remove the lower timing cover to know whether the engines in time, because theres a notch on the outside crank pulley that will align with the (T) on the lower timing cover. i planned on removing the cover anyways though just to check down there and make sure nothing went wrong.
a gauge can read 0 vacuum on these non detailed gauges.. if its less then two pounds per square inch of pressure where the gauge is tapped it will read 0 vacuum.
thanks for giving help though guys.. ill have the car soon if he cant figure it out himself at his house based on things i tell him to check.
were currently doing some testing on the ignition.
Last edited by 5LEEPERISAH23I; Oct 2, 2012 at 10:16 AM.
