I can't believe you starting darting tons of aftermarket parts at your vehicle to try and figure out a problem that you haven't even diagnosed properly. This drives me crazy. You think a crap load of aftermarket parts will fix your vehicle?? Quote.


Every part that I installed was in effort to replace what I thought was the problem.
Pipes=boost leak
WGA=boost hold
fuel pump=fuel delivery
Spark plugs=fuel detonation

When a part fails, I always replace with high performance. What is the use in going out and spending money on another oem part when I'm gonna go bigger eventually?

As for the BOV and MAF. The maf is clean and good. The BOV is stock Evo 8. I want to switch with a 9mr soon. VTA is no bueno.

 

I don't think its your ecu. It'll still have what ever tune was on it before disconnecting the battery. The only thing that will re-set is your fuel trims. Which it will relearn by driving and idling.

The only thing I can think of now would be to check your ignition coils for resistance.

 

I have a very limited garage, as far as tools go. Also, aside from unplugging one coil at a time while running, I don't know how to test coils for resistance. Is this something I have to take it to a shop to do?

 

Also, can anyone tell me what color the oem fuel injectors are? 05 Evo GSR.

 

All you need is a multimeter, a cheap one under $30 is good enough. Set it to read ohms. Pull the coil so its not plugged in to car and check + to -. The resistance should be between 8.5 - 11.5k ohms.

Stock injectors are greenish / silver color.

 

My bet is the tune...

 

Alright, I will go get a volt meter and check it today. I was trying to hold off on doing the coils till tune time so I could do COP with the tune. I'm so fed up with this car I'm fighting the urge to just sell it and cut my losses. Those blue Evo tens are looking pretty good to me right now...

 

Alright,
So I pulled the MAF and cleaned it with Isopro alcohol. Also, I pulled the coils and tested them (at 1.4 on the 20k). And I pulled the spark plugs and shortened the gap to .028ish...
The hesitation lag is gone. Boost pressure is back up to a 15lb peak during a third gear pull to redline. The boost pressure was creeping to 20 before the problem started. Can anyone tell me what the factory peak should be? I have a hallman boost controller but I am hesitant to put it on until I get some arp head studs. Also, do you think this is something I should wait to install until I am ready to protune?

I would like to thank those of you who helped me to resolve this problem.
3k, s3ctr3t, and evoikon. Your help is greatly appreciated! Congrats on being collectively more effective on troubleshooting an Evo, than a Mitsubishi dealership. Awesome.

 

You may want to rethink the plug gap--.028 is way too large. On high boost you'll blow the spark out.. but if it running fine today great. If it doesnt tomorrow you'll know where to start,

 

If it starts acting up I will drop the gap a bit. The NGK's that were in before were at .04ish, the pre gapped iridium ones were at .035. I wonder if it would be ok to drop the NGK's down to .022 and put them back in... I don't know how long they were in the car. Other than being dirty, I don't understand why they would have allowed the hesitation problem to materialize out of thin air... I'm thinking it was the maf.

Manual boost controler: bad idea or no?

 

MBC with tune, Yes. MBC without tune with boost adjusted, no.

 

+1

Have the boost controller installed or available when you go to get a tune, just leave the boost where it's at, Aaron will find a safe level to set it.

Also, Aaron has alway told me to gap the plugs at 0.020. If I try to run with any gap wider than that, it will start to break up at WOT. Just be careful adjusting the gap on iridiums.


Edit: Reading your comment about what the plug gap was when you recieved them. They were really 0.035? What part # were they?

 

Good info in here, glad your on the right track.