Igaly1021

What's up guys I'm having this issue for a while when in 2nd gear wot around 4.5k rpm it sputters and the rpms starts going down in 3rd gear it sputters but rpms keep climbing, i did all the maint when I first got the car fluids, timing belt , water pump, plugs and wires and it hasn't been 1k miles yet... The previous owner did a FMIC and drop in filter so I figure since it had no MBC that why it sputtered so I install a hallman MBC it's set at 12psi and it's still sputters some ppl say it's the coil boot that need to be replaced can anybody confirm this. It's a 9mr when I bought it had 130k I've only added maybe 300 miles cuz I mostly keep it in the garage

Igaly1021

So nobody went through this problem??

Biggiesacks

any obd codes popping up? Have you done a boost leak test? What did you gap the plugs to?

GearJamminMR

iTrader: (1)

I had the same problem just about exactly what you're having. And who ever told you to replace your coil is correct. When I had this issue I up graded to the spoolin-up cop kit, I would suggest you do the same. If you're going to replace both coils it won't be much more money for the cop kit anyway.

RussellDaniel

iTrader: (9)

Ignition would be my absolute first guess.

Igaly1021

Alright guys thanks for the suggestions I'll look into that

Biggiesacks

Yes go spend money on parts before ever actually diagnosing the problem. That sounds like the way to go.

GearJamminMR

iTrader: (1)

Yes this would be beneficial. Which I did do Diag on mine with a launch scan tool but not everyone has access to a tool like that. But yes I think he has the same problem I had but obviously cannot guarantee it. Then gave him my opinion about the coils if he is going to replace them. No one told him to throw parts at it till it's fixed.

rodent

iTrader: (35)

I'd try new plugs first with proper gap.

Biggiesacks

My response wasn't completely aimed at you. I asked OP 3 simple questions. The answers to those questions are critical for actually diagnosing his problems. He did not respond.

In his first post he had suggested that he was going to replace parts, and you said this, which is what garnered my sarcastic response.

Igaly1021

Ok well since your able to diagnose my problem with those 3 questions let's see if your able to help me, I don't have any codes no CEL flashing or anything, boost leak test done nothing, plugs are gapped....wires are new and it's only happens at wot

Biggiesacks

Did you actually plug in a code reader? The light could not be on for various reasons. What method did you use to perform your boost leak test, and to what PSI did you test it to? Some people seem to think reving it in neutral and listening for leaks qualifies, it does not. I asked WHAT you gapped your plugs to, not if you gapped them. Cheers

Igaly1021

Yes I connect the scanner no codes not even pending codes, boost leak test I used the homemade method they have on the DIY section where you put the cuppling on the turbine and and put compressor air hose, and plugs are gapped to .25mm

Biggiesacks

Miss fires and bad coils generate codes, so either your ecu was reset (power disconnected) or you have some other issue. You didnt answer what PSI you tested it at, many leaks only happen at higher levels. I believe testing to 30psi is standard for most shops. Your gap is a huge red flag. Factory manual calls for .7-.8mm so right there is a huge problem.

GearJamminMR

iTrader: (1)

It's no big deal to me man, trust I'm not taking anything personal, hope you ain't either. But I should of been more clear when that person suggest that it was a correct suggestion. But I understand you sarcastic comment.