AC not turning on
May 27, 2015, 12:29 PM
#16
The clutch won't move at all if the engine's not on? The electric bit of it should still work, no?
There should be voltage at the clutch but the system isn't grounded.
When it's off, I can push it close to the compressor but it takes a good bit of force. There is absolutely zero resistance when I spin the clutch face. Does that mean no pressure in the system, or shims too far?
There should be voltage at the clutch but the system isn't grounded.
When it's off, I can push it close to the compressor but it takes a good bit of force. There is absolutely zero resistance when I spin the clutch face. Does that mean no pressure in the system, or shims too far?
It should take some force to move it and should not freely slide back.
Try taking the shim out and reinstalling the clutch. MAKE sure the clutch does not sit flush on the pulley as there has be a gap. There is a spec for the gap but I don't have a service manual.
May 27, 2015, 12:59 PM
#17
Evolving Member
leak low pressure
this maybe the easiest to test. go to the autoparts store. buy a charging gauge with actual numbers on it. while you're there buy a can of refrigerant 6oz of 134a. do not buy oil. you'll know when yoi get there.
the compressor clutch will not engage in the pressure in less than 50psi, i think, don't quote me on that. find the suction side aka low side. this is the side you charge on.
there should be a cap on the aluminum piping with an "L". the other side is the high side and a cap with an "H" on it. You should never have to mess with the high side. your caps may be gone if someone didn't put them back but you can tell because the low side piping is fatter than the high side.
with the engine off, on the low side, remove the cap and push on the valve stem with a pen or small screwdriver. a gas is going to vent out so look out, stand the side of the opening. if gas bents out you have some refrigerant inside. if none vents out you'll need more than 6oz.
Put the gauge on the low side. take note of the reading. attach the can of 134 a and start the car, turn the AC to max and open the can to charge the system.
if your problem is a leak with low pressure causing the clutch not to engage. the pressure from the can will equalize with the system increasing the system pressure and engaging the compressor clutch.
Heres a video to help. he is using an older refrigerant . dont worry about that. you stick with 134a. but the process is still the same.
May 27, 2015, 05:08 PM
#20
i can only imagine the leak would come from this lower hose near the LICP, which was on the wrong side of the LICP and had rubbed against the belt. I've got zero gas in the system now, and this is the only obvious culprit. Does anyone know how the connection on the hose works? Someone also said if I swap the hose I will have to vacuum the system before adding the refrigerant - is this true?
May 27, 2015, 06:24 PM
#21
Evolving Member
Yes you have to make the repairs and pull a vacuum. I'm involved with HVAC at work too so I'm speaking with experience. After the vaccum you have to add oil for the compressor and gas for the cooling. Best bet make the repairs and take it to a shop to service it. If you have air in the system when you add the refrigerant you'll end up with an acidic mixture and destroy the compressor.
By the book, you do the repairs, pull vacuum do a flush (r-11 I think) reclaim the flush, pull another vacuum then add your ester oil or pag oil (depends on the make of the compressor) and measure your refrigerant in.
Sooooo, make the repairs and take it to the shop.
By the book, you do the repairs, pull vacuum do a flush (r-11 I think) reclaim the flush, pull another vacuum then add your ester oil or pag oil (depends on the make of the compressor) and measure your refrigerant in.
Sooooo, make the repairs and take it to the shop.
i can only imagine the leak would come from this lower hose near the LICP, which was on the wrong side of the LICP and had rubbed against the belt. I've got zero gas in the system now, and this is the only obvious culprit. Does anyone know how the connection on the hose works? Someone also said if I swap the hose I will have to vacuum the system before adding the refrigerant - is this true?
May 28, 2015, 07:04 AM
#23
Evolving Member
May 28, 2015, 08:00 AM
#24
Blackhawk, I'm not too far from you. The shop I called was Knight Auto Air Conditioning
May 28, 2015, 11:43 AM
#26
Evolving Member
Yea that's an awesome deal. To test that its sealed. You are to use nitrogen but id just add 3 seconds of 134a check for leaks and send it to the shop.
Oh yeah cool! I never heard of knights but any shop that carries the right equipment is certified by the EPA. Maybe when I'm not busy I can actually do a STL meeting.
Oh yeah cool! I never heard of knights but any shop that carries the right equipment is certified by the EPA. Maybe when I'm not busy I can actually do a STL meeting.
May 31, 2015, 01:23 PM
#27
not sure about testing its sealed and all but i'll let them take care of that. the top side of the hose wasn't bad but the bottom connected to the compressor was on pretty tight, not to mention it was a cramped space to get it out.
next question - how do i add refrigerant oil? do i have to add it to the compressor itself?
pics of the hose:
next question - how do i add refrigerant oil? do i have to add it to the compressor itself?
pics of the hose:
May 31, 2015, 11:09 PM
#28
Evolving Member
sorry for the delay, i was doing yard work and i have final monday evening. Anyways, i really wouldn't worry about adding oil. you never removed the compressor and and you're having it serviced.
but the right way, for your situation, is to remove the compressor from the vehicle and pour it out directly. make sure you spin the pulley to get all of the trapped oil from out of the compressor. you have to get it all out. you don't want too much oil in the compressor. if you are unsure about getting it all out just undershoot your refill by 1/2 an oz.
Don't worry about this unless you replaced the compressor. the oil really doesn't leak out.
i just reread you post. if you want to just add 2 oz of oil pour it down the hose connection toward the compressor. do this on the suction line aka low pressure hose if you can. gravity will do the rest.
when you add it to this hose the next component is the compressor ans will distribute properly though out the system.
but the right way, for your situation, is to remove the compressor from the vehicle and pour it out directly. make sure you spin the pulley to get all of the trapped oil from out of the compressor. you have to get it all out. you don't want too much oil in the compressor. if you are unsure about getting it all out just undershoot your refill by 1/2 an oz.
Don't worry about this unless you replaced the compressor. the oil really doesn't leak out.
i just reread you post. if you want to just add 2 oz of oil pour it down the hose connection toward the compressor. do this on the suction line aka low pressure hose if you can. gravity will do the rest.
when you add it to this hose the next component is the compressor ans will distribute properly though out the system.
Last edited by BlackHawk_Tsi; May 31, 2015 at 11:28 PM.
Jun 1, 2015, 06:38 AM
#29
cool - like you said i might nto worry about it since the compressor was never removed. should be fine.. lol
should be getting a hose soon, will install it and take it to the shop to be serviced!
thanks to all for the help with everything! i hope my banging on the clutch plate didn't do any harm! lol!
fyi Blackhawk, we've got an autox 6/14 at family arena if you're at all interested! PM me if you are!
should be getting a hose soon, will install it and take it to the shop to be serviced!
thanks to all for the help with everything! i hope my banging on the clutch plate didn't do any harm! lol!
fyi Blackhawk, we've got an autox 6/14 at family arena if you're at all interested! PM me if you are!
