AC not turning on
#1
AC not turning on
Recently discovered the AC is broken. The switches inside and cables seem to be working fine, but the AC just doesn't turn on. The belt looks okay etc., it just literally doesn't turn on. Normally when the compressor turns on you feel/hear that draw on the motor, maybe a slightly musty smell.. no change at all from on and off.
Any ideas? Could the compressor just be "broken"?
Any ideas? Could the compressor just be "broken"?
Last edited by kyoo; May 26, 2015 at 05:34 PM.
#2
Newbie
iTrader: (2)
Just to eliminate some possibilities, does the light on the switch come on? Does the fan blow on settings 1, 2, or 3? In one case, my A/C switch (compressor side) was bad and my mechanic replaced it. In another case, my blower motor resistor failed, and my A/C wouldn't work unless the fan was blowing on speed 4.
#3
Just to eliminate some possibilities, does the light on the switch come on? Does the fan blow on settings 1, 2, or 3? In one case, my A/C switch (compressor side) was bad and my mechanic replaced it. In another case, my blower motor resistor failed, and my A/C wouldn't work unless the fan was blowing on speed 4.
#7
Evolved Member
One possibility is that the system has a leak. The compressor clutch is inline with the pressure switch and when the pressure switch is open the clutch will not energize. This is to prevent damage to the compressor which is cooled and lubricated by circulating refrigerant.
If you live where A/C is needed often the clutch be may energizing but not engaging. The clutch wears, there is a specified gap in the service manual for the clutch and as it wears it becomes larger. There's a shim kit available from Mitsubishi one can use to change the gap or owners in some cases have just removed the existing shim and this fixed the problem. In other cases, a new clutch was required.
Behind the clutch is the coil that produces the magnetic field that engages the clutch. If power is reaching the clutch but nothing is happening the coil may be open.
If you live where A/C is needed often the clutch be may energizing but not engaging. The clutch wears, there is a specified gap in the service manual for the clutch and as it wears it becomes larger. There's a shim kit available from Mitsubishi one can use to change the gap or owners in some cases have just removed the existing shim and this fixed the problem. In other cases, a new clutch was required.
Behind the clutch is the coil that produces the magnetic field that engages the clutch. If power is reaching the clutch but nothing is happening the coil may be open.
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#8
Evolving Member
iTrader: (20)
If you trust yourself enough with a rubber mallet you can remove the splash shield in front of the compressor and quickly tap once on the face of the clutch with the engine running and the AC on. That will close the gap between the clutch and compressor pulley. If that works use this part number MR315936 compressor clutch shim kit.
#9
One possibility is that the system has a leak. The compressor clutch is inline with the pressure switch and when the pressure switch is open the clutch will not energize. This is to prevent damage to the compressor which is cooled and lubricated by circulating refrigerant.
If you live where A/C is needed often the clutch be may energizing but not engaging. The clutch wears, there is a specified gap in the service manual for the clutch and as it wears it becomes larger. There's a shim kit available from Mitsubishi one can use to change the gap or owners in some cases have just removed the existing shim and this fixed the problem. In other cases, a new clutch was required.
Behind the clutch is the coil that produces the magnetic field that engages the clutch. If power is reaching the clutch but nothing is happening the coil may be open.
If you live where A/C is needed often the clutch be may energizing but not engaging. The clutch wears, there is a specified gap in the service manual for the clutch and as it wears it becomes larger. There's a shim kit available from Mitsubishi one can use to change the gap or owners in some cases have just removed the existing shim and this fixed the problem. In other cases, a new clutch was required.
Behind the clutch is the coil that produces the magnetic field that engages the clutch. If power is reaching the clutch but nothing is happening the coil may be open.
If you trust yourself enough with a rubber mallet you can remove the splash shield in front of the compressor and quickly tap once on the face of the clutch with the engine running and the AC on. That will close the gap between the clutch and compressor pulley. If that works use this part number MR315936 compressor clutch shim kit.
Last edited by kyoo; May 4, 2015 at 10:07 AM.
#10
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If you have a leak there is a low pressure switch that will prevent the compressor from coming on. I would guess you have a leak and need to find it fix it then have a vacuum pulled and recharge the system.
#13
i did tap on it. i THINK there is a slight difference between when on and off but I can't really tell too much. Will give removing the clutch a shot today.
Question - with the electrical on but NOT the motor, will the AC clutch move when you turn on the AC? Obviously the belt's not turning so the AC won't turn on, but thought it might be easier to see the clutch position that way. If it's moving but not close enough, it's probably the shim - if it's not moving at all, something with the magnet/electrical something?
I think I read that there are shims inside of it - can I removed them or something? As far as removing the clutch, it's just that one bolt in the center?
Question - with the electrical on but NOT the motor, will the AC clutch move when you turn on the AC? Obviously the belt's not turning so the AC won't turn on, but thought it might be easier to see the clutch position that way. If it's moving but not close enough, it's probably the shim - if it's not moving at all, something with the magnet/electrical something?
I think I read that there are shims inside of it - can I removed them or something? As far as removing the clutch, it's just that one bolt in the center?
Last edited by kyoo; May 27, 2015 at 10:33 AM.
#14
Evolving Member
iTrader: (20)
It will not engage unless the engine is running.
You do have to smack it with some force to get it to move.
With the engine off have you tried turning the clutch face by hand? If you can turn it by hand with little resistance it is okay. If you can't turn it at all the compressor has locked up. There should be some resistance as there is pressure 3-4 bar in the system.
See post #8 for the shim set part number.
Yes it is held on by one 10mm bolt.
You do have to smack it with some force to get it to move.
With the engine off have you tried turning the clutch face by hand? If you can turn it by hand with little resistance it is okay. If you can't turn it at all the compressor has locked up. There should be some resistance as there is pressure 3-4 bar in the system.
See post #8 for the shim set part number.
Yes it is held on by one 10mm bolt.
#15
It will not engage unless the engine is running.
You do have to smack it with some force to get it to move.
With the engine off have you tried turning the clutch face by hand? If you can turn it by hand with little resistance it is okay. If you can't turn it at all the compressor has locked up. There should be some resistance as there is pressure 3-4 bar in the system.
See post #8 for the shim set part number.
Yes it is held on by one 10mm bolt.
You do have to smack it with some force to get it to move.
With the engine off have you tried turning the clutch face by hand? If you can turn it by hand with little resistance it is okay. If you can't turn it at all the compressor has locked up. There should be some resistance as there is pressure 3-4 bar in the system.
See post #8 for the shim set part number.
Yes it is held on by one 10mm bolt.
When it's off, I can push it close to the compressor but it takes a good bit of force. There is absolutely zero resistance when I spin the clutch face. Does that mean no pressure in the system, or shims too far?