JohnnyTSi

iTrader: (3)

Man, I can't believe I've put this many miles on my evo! Guess that’s what happens to a daily driver! I've put some pretty serious miles on this build I did way back in 2009. I still love driving this car; it's a great combination of reliability vs full on monster with enough brute force to take on the fastest street cars. Some history:

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...pressions.html

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...omparison.html

It's time to either sell it, or tear it down for some maintenance repairs. As I can't seem to find an acceptable replacement, It is tear down and rebuild time.

Here's what I have planned so far:

New 2.4 long rod shortblock with R&R rods and Wiseco 9:1 pistons (already done)

Rebuild my ported head replacing the high mileage GSC springs with new Kigglys. To help solve the head gasket challenges on the 2.4, I'll have it O-Ringed. I'm already running S3 cams so will probably stick with them. I have a set of +1mm valves that will go in and depending on how the rockers look I may buy new.

All new timing hardware with another oem 9 belt.

Motor Mounts - new OEM rear motor mount and new Innovative 60A (soft) side and front mounts

ACT XTSS clutch to replace the worn out unit in the car now. also a new streetlight flywheel (all you ACT haters please keep it to yourself. MY ACT was able to shift at my rev limiter right up until the disc wore too thin to keep it adjusted correctly)

Rebuild my transmission - Probably Having Jacks do the work, thinking about the 4.11 final drive to complement my big block, but there seems to be a bunch of controversy about this mod. A forged output tube will go in no matter which options are chosen.

Ditto for the Transfer case, probably their stage2 rebuild, I'm undecided about the wavetrac upgrade; everyone posts positive comments about this part, so it may find its way into my order.

Driveline - I'm at a loss what to do here, apparently it isn't possible to replace the u-joints? (wtf Mitsubishi) I did find complete 2piece (and 1 piece) replacements in the $1000 - $1500 range. has anyone found a way to rebuild the oem driveline? or should I just buy a serviceable replacement? which one?

Axles - I'll probably have our local Axle shop Drivelines NW rebuild the OEM units - I've been really happy with the units they built for my DSM.

Rear Diff - It isn't yet making noise so will probably leave it alone (for now) I'ts definitely on my radar with a basic rebuild and at least correct the plates on the oem unit

Suspension - My MR Bilsteins and espelir springs are showing their age. I've been so pleased at the combination of handling and comfort with this setup that I'm not sure there will be an acceptable alternative. I do have a set of muellerized buddy club coilovers I bought years ago, I may try those to see how they feel. I'm pretty sure I'll end up with a new set of Bilstein HDs and swift spec-r springs (espelir springs are no longer available) Is there any other combination I should look into? I've also decided to do the whiteline bump steer kits as well as replace all of the bushings font and rear.

Turbo Kit - I also am going to step away from my FPBlack bolton turbo and move to an ETS divided T4 kit with probably a pt6266 Gen2 in a 1.15 turbine housing. My hope is to not lose any low end responsiveness and drivability with this swap. I've already bought everything needed for the turbo swap, but haven't yet decided 100% on which turbo to go with.
What else should I pay attention to while it's down?


John-