benIX

iTrader: (6)

Thanks everyone for being so helpful. I've contacted few shops that will let me know where they take their block to get them machined for oil squirters . I'll try to keep you guys updated on the built. Wish me luck.

Chris Smith

not needed

evodziobak

iTrader: (3)

Old topic but might be helpful for someone wanting to remove the jets. I decided to remove them after one broke of totally and I found it in the oil pan and the other 3 were cracked already just waiting to fall off. I have a stroker 2.3 crank and wiseco pistons. After a lot of time spent on trying different bends of the jets + washer to lower the whole jet I figure there is no good/safe way to bend them and be 100% sure that they will not be damaged when the engine is running thus the decistion to remove the jets. In my opinion obtaining a perfect bend of the jets involves using tools and force that the jet pipe will be weekend where it is soldered to the main part will crack eventually. I found out that a good way to plug the holes where the jets are installed is to use the bolts that connect the flywheel to the crank. Perfect lenght and same thread . Installing the oil pan tomorrow and going to the dyno next week. I will let you know after I do some miles on it. It's a very powerfull engine with antilag, generating a lot of heat but I'm almost sure that pluging the jets will do no harm to how the engine runs. I know a lot of people will disagree with me but I'm giving it a try. Time will show.

Jonno99

There's plenty of posts on the subject, some for some against. I talked to my builder when I got mine done and he said if you leave them in they'll break, others have said the same thing in this forum. I think builders bend them when they do the build and they then eventually break. The side effect is higher oil pressure, especially with a balancer delete. I often see 100psi on my pressure gauge and I wonder if that pressure will eventually blow seals, however my builder said the higher pressure is deep in the block and contained. So far so good with about 10k miles on the build. I guess if I had it again I'd ask for new squirters as long as the particular forged pistons can go in without bending them.

evodziobak

iTrader: (3)

Not possible to install new originaly shaped jets with a 2,3 stroker crank and wiseco stroker pistons. I tried new ones. If you want to make them fit you need to bend them preaty much right where the little pipe of the jet is attached to the body of the squirter which as you posted weekens them and they will eventually brake.

With a stock build I would leave them because the original shape works fine. no bending needed.

mrowka

iTrader: (6)

OK, just to be difficult - let's assume that oil squirters are not strictly needed. Other than time, machine work and headache, is there any reason not to use them?

Biggiesacks

Maybe you live somewhere so cold, that the extra cooling is bad.






* This is a joke, please no nerd battles about oil cooling/temp/w.e.

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

Well, the oil squirters tap into the main oil galley inside of 4G6X blocks. I suppose by not running them, you have less risk of one of their bolts working itself out completely causing you to loose all oil pressure. The plugs you install to NOT run them could also work their way out somehow. Other than that, I have never heard of any cylinder wall, rod, piston, or crank damage caused by a loose oil squirter nozzel hanging out in the oil pan. For what it's worth, I run them on my 2.3 and my spare 2.4LR block because I like the idea of the engine pissing oil on my cylinder walls and bottom of piston while it's running. I feel like it helps clear debris in addition to the cooling affect.

kyoo

iTrader: (29)

how do i check if my builder included the oil squirters? is there a way to check? dont even know where it's located

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

The only way to physically check is to pull the oil pan and look for them below the crank girdle....actually it would be above if you are under the car

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at..._squirters.jpg

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Heres a better shot taken w/the pan & tray off:

evodziobak

iTrader: (3)

I used Loctite on the plug bolts so they shouldn't work their way out. It's not the bolts of the oil squirters that are the problem in the original setup. If properly installed they do not work their way out, it's the little pipes of the squirters that get damaged because of the piston hitting them - we're talking about the 2,3 stroker. Eventually they will just crack and fall of and migrate all over the oil pan. In my opinion instead of just laying in the pan they can keep flying arround the cranckcase causing damage to the crank or cylinders. There are pictures of the squirter pipes damaged hard that fell of which would indicate that they were hitting engine components inside the crankcase, not just laying in the oil pan. I was pretty lucky because I found mine sucked up in the oil screen and not flying arround the crankcase. Please don't get me wrong, I'm not saying you should remove the squirters if you're rebuilding a stock 2.0 engine. I would keep them with stock 2.0 crank and pistons but not with the 2.3 stroker and especially if you need to install new squirters from the bottom with the engien on the car. Like I said before in my opinion it is not possible to bend the squirter pipes in a way they won't be weekend and at the same time have the right fit to have enough clerance betweend the crank and the pistons while have to install them thru the bottom of the engine with the engine on the car. With the engine "on the work bench" it's a different story. I think a combination of a delicate bend and some copper washer installed under the squirters could end up in a clean and nice install that could work but that's not possible with the engine on the car in the case of having to install a new squirter bacause of a failure of the previous one. If you want to leave the squirters on a stroker engine the trick is in bending the pipes in a way that won't weeken them causing cracks and eventually falling of during riding after some miles.