Can I/Should I rebuild an engine myself?
Dec 30, 2016, 10:07 AM
#16
Evolved Member
It should be standard size if crank is uncut and clean.
Might as well put i beam rods and forged pistons.
Also ring gap has to be right. And also ring end gap placement is crucial.
Might as well put i beam rods and forged pistons.
Also ring gap has to be right. And also ring end gap placement is crucial.
Dec 30, 2016, 10:42 AM
#17
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
This
Also this. Even if you mess up your first try and spin a rod bearing or rings don't seat right or something. The minor redo you'll have to do will still be less expensive then having paid someone to build it in the first place.
Dec 30, 2016, 12:36 PM
#18
Account Disabled
Dec 30, 2016, 01:59 PM
#20
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Rings do rotate. But it is important to stagger them per the instructions when assembling the engine.
Dec 30, 2016, 02:18 PM
#21
FWIW:
I did an OEM rebuild. I put my OEM pistons and rods back in with new rings and bearings. The rings didn't need filing, the gaps where on the big end of spec. Same with bearing clearances (I used plastigauge). So far, I have about 2000mi on it at 350whp on pump and 450whp on E85 up to 7800RPM. The car sees very little daily driving but gets beat up on at the local autox and occasional track days. It has been handling everything I can throw at it.
I checked all measurements, all torque specs, and lubrication on everything. At least twice. I used plenty of oil and plenty of assembly lube. I was probably a bit more **** than I needed to be, but I was taking no chances.
**edit: I followed the factory service manual to a "T". That made it easy, seeing how all my parts were Mitsu, except for the bearings.
I did an OEM rebuild. I put my OEM pistons and rods back in with new rings and bearings. The rings didn't need filing, the gaps where on the big end of spec. Same with bearing clearances (I used plastigauge). So far, I have about 2000mi on it at 350whp on pump and 450whp on E85 up to 7800RPM. The car sees very little daily driving but gets beat up on at the local autox and occasional track days. It has been handling everything I can throw at it.
I checked all measurements, all torque specs, and lubrication on everything. At least twice. I used plenty of oil and plenty of assembly lube. I was probably a bit more **** than I needed to be, but I was taking no chances.
**edit: I followed the factory service manual to a "T". That made it easy, seeing how all my parts were Mitsu, except for the bearings.
Dec 30, 2016, 02:22 PM
#22
This guy is just as bad as fake news. Someone is seriously going to damage their engine if he keeps handing out false advice. There is a reason why even service manuals tell you where to line up ring gaps. If it didn't matter OEMs wouldn't bother putting it in there.
The following 2 users liked this post by kaj:
4b11slayer (Dec 30, 2016),
mrowka (Jan 6, 2017)
Dec 30, 2016, 03:11 PM
#25
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Rings definitely do spin.
However, like I said, their orientation when being installed is important.
However, like I said, their orientation when being installed is important.
Dec 30, 2016, 05:09 PM
#27
(thats my understanding, based on what Ive read outside of this discussion)
Dec 30, 2016, 05:11 PM
#28
If you line up the gaps, you will have very little compression. You offset them as everyone in the world will recommend, the odds of them all lining up while moving around is probably about eleventy billion to one. That is why you offset the gaps.
Or, you can try listening to what that one guy says. 😂
Or, you can try listening to what that one guy says. 😂
The following users liked this post:
4b11slayer (Dec 30, 2016)
Dec 30, 2016, 05:40 PM
#29
Evolved Member
If you line up the gaps, you will have very little compression. You offset them as everyone in the world will recommend, the odds of them all lining up while moving around is probably about eleventy billion to one. That is why you offset the gaps.
Or, you can try listening to what that one guy says. 😂
Or, you can try listening to what that one guy says. 😂
If all the ring end gaps are lined up in line or near each other, then you have created a leak from the combustion chamber down in to your crank case.
A: low compression
B: high crankcase pressure
C: Oil consumption
D:all of the above.
Its kinda like saying all piston ring end gaps are the same and don't matter.
