So in trying to replace the lower control arm bushings, I broke the head off the passenger side bolt at the front bushing. I managed to get the other side out but it was the most difficult bolt I ever removed. When I went to work on the other side I tried without heating the bolt which turned out to be a big mistake.

I went to two different places. One told me they can't drill it out and would have to cut off the LCA first to get at the bolt which is $300 for a new LCA plus a few hundred in labor. The Mitsubishi dealer wants to drop the sub frame & LCA, at which point they'd be able to drill it out, but can't with it on the car. $700 labor they said.

Does anyone have any solution that wouldn't be ~$700 to remove a bolt? My only two thoughts would be welding something onto the broken stub or possibly cutting out each side of the bushing to at least remove the LCA giving a bit better access to the bolt. At the very worst I can remove the subframe myself and take it to the dealer, but the logistics of that would be pretty difficult.

Photos below

 

Ugh f**k that bolt. Been there done that. Just be thankful that you managed to get one side out.

Im surprised you snapped off the bolt head. What typically happens is that the bolt seizes to the sleeve of the bushing so when you go to back out the bolt the bushing spins and backs off the nut that sits inside your subframe. The reason I mention this is that welding on a nut really wont do you much aside from the heat of the bead which possibly and this is a hail mary will help to break the seize.

If you are very careful I know other members have had success cutting the bolt as you described slipping in a sawsall blade and cutting off the bolt so you can get the LCA off. But then youre left with drilling out whats left of the bolt in the nut and chances are you'll have to cut open the subframe to extract the old nut.

I gave up years ago and chopped off my poor LCA's and cut into my subframe. It sucked. If you like to turn now would be a good time to swap in some X control arms. Wish I went that route when I threw in the towel and chopped off my LCAs...good luck and search around on here as there are numerous threads on this topic. Some might have some decent tricks that you didnt think of that could be helpful.

 

A couple options I thought of:

1. You might be able to drill a hole into what you have left. Drill a hole into the broken stud. Thread it and stick a smaller bolt into it. Then you can jbweld, epoxy, or weld the smaller bolt into it. It could give you a second chance to pull it out or it could break again.

2. Drop the subframe. Buy a used front subframe and control arm and replace. Would probably cost about 200-300 and its the easiest solution.

 

Don't know how handy you are--- but if you can cut the bolt between the arm and mount to get the a-arm out, I would do that.. should get you some room and solve part of the prob. Next I would drill thru the remaining bolt with a small bit first and then larger bit--you might get it to spin out or at the very least once you have a thin wall of old bolt remaining take a chisel and small punch and tap it into the hole in the bolt until you get it out..

 

I would drill a pilot hole in the middle of what's left of the bolt and use a high strength bolt extractor to twist it out. Be careful because those break too. If it doesn't want to move at all, then cutting between the control arm and subframe might be your best bet.

 

If he broke the head off taking it out, the bolt is galled/seizes in place. An extractor has no chance of getting that out.

 

Do not use a bolt extractor! I repeat do not you an ez out or youre going to have a bad time...those work at best when you snap something off while tightening it down. But if something is seized and you snapped of the bolt head I can guarantee you that you will snap the ez out and good luck drilling that thing out. They are extremely strong but very brittle.

When it comes to getting stuck things out nothing beats heat and impacts. There are a lot of other tricks from the basic spraying a penetrating oil like PB Blaster or my favorite Kroil which did absolutely nothing for me in this application, to melting on hot wax to left hand drill bits etc etc.

If you plan to drill it out pick up a set of left hand drill bits. That way if it does give way itll come right out. But in all honestly the seize is pretty unbelievable so I doubt it'll give up.

How did you snap the head off anyway? Thats a serious bolt...My impact wouldnt even move it so I went to breaker with long cheater bar and thats when the bushing decided to rip and allow it to spin.

Ill have to look back through my pictures but the seize of the bolt to the bushing sleeve was so significant that when cut through the two of them I couldnt even tell which metal was was as they appears to be one piece.

 

You can see in the pic that the shack of the bolt had some serious corrosion eating into it. That thing is going to need cut apart. I would just get a good used subframe. Cut the arm out of your subframe, replace those front bushings, and put it back together.

 

Here's a mechanic dealing with a rear Subaru bushing bolt. This is a similar but easier job that the LCA bolt on the EVo - there's no boxed nut to deal with. Still, he has a special torque wrench, special socket, special impact gun and a ton of experience.


This can be the toughest job on the Evo. When you start out be prepared for automotive war or don't go there. I'm doing an easier project and I've spent $3,100 just getting prepared.

 

Yep its a low spot water gets in there and puddles and the rest is history. Like I said that bolt isnt coming out with something like an ez out, guaranteed. The stock bolt is some serious hardware. If the head of that snapped just think of what kind of seize we're talking about here. I'd be shocked, literally mind blown if you were somehow able to extract the bolt. I'ts just not going to happen.

So your best bet is to try and drill it out cut open the subframe and weld in a new nut. As I think about it Im not even sure you'll be able to tap it once you have it out so youre better of replacing it.

But on that note perhaps an entire replacement front subframe is the easy button. Gotta love when something that should take all of maybe 15 minutes to remove gives you all this aggravation.

And when you finally do get the thing out be sure to use copious amounts of anti-size when you go to reinstall it.

I popped my LCA's off like 6 months ago to replace the ball joints and I was shocked that one side tried to fight me again. Driverside zipped right off but passenger side seemed a little stuck. I cranked up the air pressure a little bit and then the gun zipped it right off. This time around I lathered the bolt up with a ridiculous amount of anti seize and I think I might just like once a year pop them off for good measure.

Did you get the recall for the rust on the front subframe? Maybe you could work out a deal with the dealership to get yours replaced? Just a thought...I know the rust is for something different but I think if you are clever with your wording you may be able to work out an agreement. Good luck!

 

The way things are starting to sound, I'd just save myself the headache and buy a subframe and lower control arm for about 300 bucks on ebay, then swap out.

 

****ing hell this would suck...

 

If you happen to live in a state where the subframe recall is in effect, go talk to the guys who have been replacing subframes. I'm sure they'd have some war stores but maybe some hints.

 

Not a bad thought about drilling/tapping. I suppose it can't make things any worse so may as well try. I think I might get a reverse threaded bolt so I don't have to worry about the jb weld that that will probably not hold.

Otherwise a new subframe might just be the way to go. Hopefully one with the bolts already out.

 

I actually took it in for that recall hoping that they'd replace the subframe....no dice.