When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Thinking of relocating CT9A battery to trunk, fabricating a box and rewiring?
Evo GeneralDiscuss any generalized technical Evo related topics that may not fit into the other forums.
Please do not post tech and rumor threads here.
Sponsored by: RavSpec - JDM Wheels Central
I`ve done it. I run a small battery in the truck and ran 1/0 all the way to the front of the car. It will actually fit under the plastic door sills with a light amount of trimming.
I actually used this tip, it was very helpful. I cut the little skeleton ridges out of the trim pieces of the scuff plate door sills. Thank you.
Look up everyday metal design on Instagram, there is a bracket being made to utilize an evo x fusible link under the hood to clean up the relocation.
I've relocated my battery to the rear. We made a custom box and mounted it on the driver's side behind the wheel (also on that Instagram page). I would recommend an optima battery, or similar, instead of a lead acid battery if doing the swap. It gets rid of the need to vent.
I saw that a company was selling a kit to mount the evo-x battery parts for simplified relocation like you were describing. They wanted 200$! I couldn't believe the cost of the bracket. Being that I can tig weld- I will make my own from aluminum. I did buy the evo-x parts though, so basically I'm just stealing the idea. Thanks for the tip!
Yes- that's the kit I bought. I agree, the terminal connections suck. I want to get some better ones, but I haven't gotten that far yet. I also need to buy some killer cable cutters so I can make easy cuts.
Hey there,
I am currently using the Fathouse Fab kit for my car. It essentially comes with an Evo X Distribution box and they provide a mounting brace(Powder coated or not) for it that sits very nicely in the engine bay. Here is the Link: http://www.fathousefab.com/product/e...n-bracket-kit/
For the battery in the trunk I purchased the Red top Optima Battery and the ICT Billet tray for it, all on Amazon. Honestly im not an electrician so I had my buddy at a local shop hook it all up for me.
I had the wiring left over from buying a Taylor Battery box but didnt want to go that route and I do agree on purchasing your own set of terminals. I went with some bronze ones I found from Amazon and they look great. I will make sure to post some pictures of my setup for you just to help the brain-storming process. Take care.
Question- which one of these goes to the starter? Here is a picture I found from someone else's thread.
I think it is number "3" on the left, but I'm not sure. If so, isn't the starter not protected from the factory? I have a 300 amp fuse on the hot side of the battery for the trunk, so even if I run the starter unfused off of the evo 10 box it will still have the fuse in the trunk. The reason I ask is that it shows in this diagram that people are using the 140 amp spot from the evo-10- I personally don't think that's enough to be safe that it wont blow due to current draw from starting the car.
So- without anyone able to help, I investigated this myself.
Here is the stock battery terminal fuseable link. It has 4 leads coming off of it from the factory. Mine has 6, because I have an external charger connector and a second fuel pump.
I started with the bottom portion of the bracket. I made it out of 1/8" aluminum. I made it as small as possible (removed material where it wasn't necessary) for weight reasons.
Next I bent up and cut a top part to mount the evo-x distributor. I noticed that the fathouse fab bracket has it set so that the distributor faces the front. Let's call this the 6-oclock position. I did mine different. I wanted it to face the 10:30 position. The reason for this is that the starter wire is very thick (I think it's 4 gauge) and I didn't want to have to modify or lengthen the cable.
Everything TIG welded together now. And I drilled holes for mounting the distributor. You can see here, that when I removed the starter wire from the bottom of the factory Evo-9 connector it fits nicely because I chose this 10:30 position. If it were at the 6-oclock position, I don't think it would be long enough to do it this way. I'm using a "mega" fuse in the back at the battery, so there is no need for me to have a fuse for the starter up front under the hood. Interesting- many cars (including the evo-ix) do not have a fuse from the factory for the starter. I was nervous without putting on in. More on that later.
Here you can see the rest of the wiring is pretty easy. The alternator lead went on the 120amp link. I have my double pumper on one as well. The other small wire fit on a 60 amper. I had to use pliers to bend these out. I noticed the wire that originally goes unfused next to the starter (underneath on the evo-ix battery lead) feeds the underhood fuse box. There is a 60 amp fuse directly inside. I just removed this entire wire. It is actually 2 wires bound and crimped together. I have an empty spot for this on still, but I'm going to probably shorten it a little bit.
New update- I wanted to find a way to secure the bracket for forward back movement. After taking everything in the car apart- it seemed like a good idea to use the structure of the support for the rear seats. I fabricated a beam surround of sorts with 1/2" X 1" x 1/8" thick C-channel.
Then I mocked it up to try and get the sizing right. I had to clamp it down and remove it from the car to bring it to the bench to weld.
When I welded it, I used some more c-channel to make gussets so it was stronger.
I measured carefully, and drilled some holes in the back of the seat support to attach a M6 bolt and nut.
I wrapped the wiring under the fender with a 1/2" piece of convolute and electric tape.
I cut a piece of nylon with the footprint design of the battery to constrain it better, to prevent it from moving around in the box from side to side.
battery fits in quite nicely and very snug
I made a shim from nylon to make the top clamp full fit and constrain the battery side to side as well as hold it down.
holes drilled, for weight savings
My 2 brackets out of aluminum are currently away getting powder-coated. I hope to have them back this week so I can finish this. I need to find a cover for the positive terminal- I am trying of using a 3d printer to make one.
Man if you lived nearby me i would pay you to do this for me, mine isnt as neat and isnt vented, great work.
Most people say that you don't need to vent an optima battery. I called optima themselves, and they suggested that I do it this way. The issue I have (being an engineer myself) is that the box itself isn't really sealed in a way that will make it impossible for gases to escape the seams of the box. I called Taylor Vertex and they said they've never heard of this causing an issue. The seams of the box and where the threaded rod aren't really "sealed".
EDIT (Addendum)
Venting on this car is surprisingly easy. I was amazed at how the car basically seemed to be designed for this right from the factory. I don't know what the little holes I used were for- but they were already in the floor pan. I assume some other car that uses the same rear pan uses those boss-nuts. I was literally laughing when I realized the hole was right on top of the rail of the pan. What are the chances of that!
Aug 1, 2018, 11:54 PM
