Evo 7 cold weather, better idle but worse cold start.
Oct 11, 2018, 01:19 PM
#1
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Evo 7 cold weather, better idle but worse cold start.
Edit: Seems like I managed to fix the idle by cleaning air filter, air mass meter, throttle body and the IAC.
Cold start didn't get any better. I still need to pump the gas pedal a when starting after car standing for hours.
I tried to start by keeping the key in ON position for 20sec to let fuel pump prime and switcing on and off a couple times without luck.
Hello.
I've been struggling with starting and idle problems since (atleast almost) I bought my evo. At first the car started fine but in a few days it took a couple of tries before the starter fired when turning the key untill it died completely. Turned out to be a faulty wire between the starter solenoid and ignition switch. I jumped the wire straight to the starter from ignition switch and the starting problems were mostly gone.
So currently I got no relay between the switch and starter. Which leads me to the next question as the relay seems to originally have one wire connected to the ecu, is it for immobiliser or does it get other information through that one too? I got toad aftermarket alarm system so the original immobiliser is disabled already.
Current problem is with cold start:
The car starts up well when the weather is warm +20c car starts well but the idle is bad and jumps between 1800-2500 untill the engine reaches halfway to normal temperature. Note: This happens after driving a little and pressing clutch/leaving it on idle, not right away after starting up and the car will keep stable idle at ~2400rpm if I don't start driving or touch the gas pedal.
On colder weather +0-10c I need to pump the gas pedal to get the car started and the engine dies right away when It is about to start running, with second start it fires up like there was never any problems and the idle is 90% of time very stable, around 2400 untill halfway to normal temp. Sometimes it starts jumping but it's not even close to as bad as when the weather is warm.
Could this be from the bypassed relay or is it more about the tune/something else? First few days after getting the car the cold idle was good tho. Can't remember if the idle problems came at the same time when I bypassed the relay because there was other problems with the car, I was more focused on them and the idle didn't bother me so much until now on colder weathers when I need to start twice by pumping the pedal.
This happens only with cold engine when the car has been standing for hours. If I turn it off after running even for a second I don't need to press the pedal for it to start again.
Car has:
HKS full exhaust
-HKS mushroom filter
-Forge BOV
-Apex turbotimer
-Tune (for bov too to keep car from stalling when pressing clutch)
I've tried if blocking BOV or removing turbotimer helps but it didn't affect anything at all, timer is set to 0 seconds atm, using it only to see afr etc.
Cold start didn't get any better. I still need to pump the gas pedal a when starting after car standing for hours.
I tried to start by keeping the key in ON position for 20sec to let fuel pump prime and switcing on and off a couple times without luck.
Hello.
I've been struggling with starting and idle problems since (atleast almost) I bought my evo. At first the car started fine but in a few days it took a couple of tries before the starter fired when turning the key untill it died completely. Turned out to be a faulty wire between the starter solenoid and ignition switch. I jumped the wire straight to the starter from ignition switch and the starting problems were mostly gone.
So currently I got no relay between the switch and starter. Which leads me to the next question as the relay seems to originally have one wire connected to the ecu, is it for immobiliser or does it get other information through that one too? I got toad aftermarket alarm system so the original immobiliser is disabled already.
Current problem is with cold start:
The car starts up well when the weather is warm +20c car starts well but the idle is bad and jumps between 1800-2500 untill the engine reaches halfway to normal temperature. Note: This happens after driving a little and pressing clutch/leaving it on idle, not right away after starting up and the car will keep stable idle at ~2400rpm if I don't start driving or touch the gas pedal.
On colder weather +0-10c I need to pump the gas pedal to get the car started and the engine dies right away when It is about to start running, with second start it fires up like there was never any problems and the idle is 90% of time very stable, around 2400 untill halfway to normal temp. Sometimes it starts jumping but it's not even close to as bad as when the weather is warm.
Could this be from the bypassed relay or is it more about the tune/something else? First few days after getting the car the cold idle was good tho. Can't remember if the idle problems came at the same time when I bypassed the relay because there was other problems with the car, I was more focused on them and the idle didn't bother me so much until now on colder weathers when I need to start twice by pumping the pedal.
This happens only with cold engine when the car has been standing for hours. If I turn it off after running even for a second I don't need to press the pedal for it to start again.
Car has:
HKS full exhaust
-HKS mushroom filter
-Forge BOV
-Apex turbotimer
-Tune (for bov too to keep car from stalling when pressing clutch)
I've tried if blocking BOV or removing turbotimer helps but it didn't affect anything at all, timer is set to 0 seconds atm, using it only to see afr etc.
Last edited by Yazer; Oct 13, 2018 at 08:49 PM.
Oct 15, 2018, 07:15 AM
#3
Sounds to me like tuning issue. Do you have a wideband? Do you let the car warm up at all? There’s certain tables on ecuflash that can help with some of these things. Also, do a boost leak test for the hell of it. Always good to do on boosted cars specially if it starts acting differently all of the sudden.
Last edited by nor11384; Oct 15, 2018 at 07:22 AM.
Oct 16, 2018, 07:27 AM
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I don't have a wideband but thought of getting one during winter. I let the car idle only for 15-30sec but not revving much over 3k rpm before the car is close to normal temps.
Seems like I fixed the idle, it's been working flawlessly for 4 days now after cleaning maf, iac, throttlebody and air filter. Only the cold start is still bad. Need to get the boost leaks tested and I'm going to check and measure the engine temp sensor in a few days.
Seems like I fixed the idle, it's been working flawlessly for 4 days now after cleaning maf, iac, throttlebody and air filter. Only the cold start is still bad. Need to get the boost leaks tested and I'm going to check and measure the engine temp sensor in a few days.