Kreeker

iTrader: (10)

The vibrations above 4k are unbearable. If this is what it feels like to drive with a balance shaft delete then I don't know how people do it on a daily driver... If I rev up to say 4.5k in 4th or 5th and just let it rev out, it actually sounds like the engine is going to explode.

Shifting is also worse than it usually is, and the new exhaust rattles that randomly showed up are also inline with the balance shaft being out of time.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Cars with balance shafts deletes drive normal. Having them out of synch, maybe not. I've never driven a car with the shafts out of time, but that seems awful dramatic.
get that fixed asap!
the rattling is from something being loose. Fix that too.

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

When I swapped in a replacement used long block a few years back, the balance shaft was also out of phase. It is exactly as you described it. The car was noisier and rattled like hell around 4k rpm. Very similar to driving on bent rods. The timing belt will need to come off once more so that the oil pump sprocket can be rotated into the correct phase.

Kreeker

iTrader: (10)

So I think I'm going crazy... On Saturday I went under the car and noticed that some of the exhaust shields were rattling. I put some worm clamps on them. That fixed the low rpm noise, but I still experienced the noise at higher rpms.

Then I went over to the shop today and had them drive it. The tech said there seems to be some exhaust rattles. He lifted the car and we noticed that the worm clamps I put on had loosed already... We also noticed that the driveshaft mount bolt seems to be hitting the exhaust and the gasket from the mid pipe to the catback has disintegrated... Tech tightens the worm clamps and we got another drive and it seems pretty good. But I don't think we did any deceleration from 4-5k..

Later on today I notice that it seems to be making the bad noises I originally noticed. This is most noticeable on deceleration from 4-5k. I look under the car, and the worm clamps are still in place. Now I'm wondering if the the noise is coming from the exhaust hitting the driveshaft mount. Again I'm confused because I did not have this problem before I took the car the shop...

Is the engine timing belt side motor loosened or removed when doing the timing belt? Could the movement of the motor have caused the entire exhaust to shift causing these new issues?

This is what the motor mount looks like on my car... It looks like the rubber isn't in the right positions...



Please check out my new videos and tell me if it sounds anything like what you experienced.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Someone needs to loosen everything, line it up, and put it together right.

OneSlowEvo8

Im looking to do the timing belt service myself, i was thinking about getting cams installed at the same time as well, how much more labor do you guys think it will be?

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

The rubber on the motor mount being in the wrong spot won't make noise. They need to check the fron balance shaft phasing by removing the inspection plug and sticking a screw driver in there.

Pal215

iTrader: (12)

You're not going crazy, i'm fairly certain your balance shafts are out of phase. It's a mistake a lot of non-specialty mechanics make all the time. As letsgetthisdone mentioned, there is a bolt you can take off on the front facing side of the engine to check the phase of the balance shaft. Note that I said front facing and not front. It's right next to your downpipe. I'm willing to bet it's out of phase and all these extra noises are caused by it.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

carlevo59

I paid $1300 a couple years ago.

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

Since we are on the 60k service topic here, I had a question for anyone who knows the answer. Are there any special tools I will need to do the timing belt swap? I have a very good selection of tools but no Mitsu specialty tools so hopefully there is nothing fancy needed.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

The one that holds the timing gears is a HUGE help. There is another used on the mechanical tensioner. That's needed, as there is no other way to do it (that I know of).
I have the AMS gear and hydraulic tensioner (only needed if not replacing the tensioner) tools and a Jay Racing mechanical tensioner tool.
They are all worth their weight in gold.

Lumpy Sticks

iTrader: (3)

Thanks Kaj. So it looks like I should buy a kit like this.... A lot cheaper then I was thinking.

https://www.extremepsi.com/store/Ext...O-1-9-NEW.html

Biggiesacks

Damn that's a good deal.

kaj

iTrader: (60)

Wow. I think I paid that for ONE of my tools.
yes! Get THAT.