kaj

iTrader: (60)

Not sure if that oil leak is normal or not. A lot of oil gets tossed around, even at idle. Are you running a BB turbo? Low compression? Low leak down numbers? Otherwise, you may just need a new cap. Get yourself a good serial-to-USB cable (not all are compatible, so get the right one) and you should be able to datalog that wideband (assuming the sensor is still good, of course).

9TechNine9

Seriously appreciate the help!! Stock turbo. Haven't run compression or leak down test. This motor only has ~5k on it, so I'm trying to start with the simplest stuff I can and work my way up. Pretty sure the oil is working its way up and over the O ring on the fill cap because of that chip. Just a new cap I'm thinking. I'm going to take a look at the ECU to see if that wire really is going right to it and then go from there.

9TechNine9

Took apart the interior last night to follow that wire. You were on the right path, it goes up to my AFR gauge. Found one of the bolts for the drivers seat was cross threaded and half way in... spooky. I'm looking for a Tactrix cable now, seems like I need the 1.3, but this is the only one I can find is ~$130..??!? Is this basically my only option?

kaj

iTrader: (60)

You used to be able to find used 1.3s for about $100ish... but they are getting few and far between, now that the platform isn't as popular as it once was (and being sold back and forth, along with their parts). $130 is waaaay worth it.

9TechNine9

Shoot that seems crazy expensive for a cable.. I'll order one now, thanks again!!

kaj

iTrader: (60)

It is really expensive for the parts/construction, but you're paying for the convenience and how useful it is. If you can find the parts, you could always make your own.

9TechNine9

Yeah I'm sure, maybe worth looking into for someone who's got the time, however I'm just looking for turnkey right now. Trying to figure out my problem ASAP before it becomes a major issue. I figure I'm saving money on doing it myself, so spend the extra on quality parts - that's always been my motto. I know I will use this cable many times over and it will pay for itself pretty quick =) I REFUSE to let this Evo win!!

9TechNine9

Quick update - Found the source of the rough idle. 2 of 4 coil packs had come loose... Doh! Snugged them up and the idle is smooth, no longer jumpy/breaking up. Driveability and throttle response greatly increased. Still seeing a lean AFR on cold start.. Waiting for Tactrix Cable in the mail, will update more then.

9TechNine9

Couldn't get ECUFlash to recognize my ECU with the Tactrix Cable. I only spent a couple hours on it, but it won't recognize my RomID. From what I've read, I need to update my rommetadata folder with meta data from the Tephra Mod V7 thread, but I can't figure out how to get into my rommetadata folder.. Been busy with my project car trying to get that up and running for racing season. Besides the fact that I haven't been able to datalog, I believe that based on the symptoms I have now, that my IACV is going out. Lean AFR's on cold start, when having lean AFR's and I try to go in 1st it will die/bog out, when the car is at full operational temp it runs great. As soon as the temp passes the first tick on the gauge, AFR's steady out to normal ~14.7-~15.2. However I'm not getting the common "dies at stop lights" symptom... I got in contact with the previous owner to see if he knew what was going on - he said that when it was dyno'd they had to replace the IACV with a used unit. Is an OEM IACV really worth ~$300-~$400?!? or are some people having luck with the knock off IACV's?

kaj

iTrader: (60)

I've always taken IACVs from random Mitsubishis in the wrecking yards. I haven't heard many good thing about aftermarket IACVs.

9TechNine9

All right I'm back to trying to seriously diagnose this issue. I want to try a few other things before messing with my IACV, because I'm not fully convinced that's the issue yet besides the fact that I only have problems at idle. The screws are stripped on the IACV and I dont want to mess with it right before my event this coming weekend. Light mods, mostly bolt ons. It has mild cams, EGR delete, balance shaft delete and is converted from MAF to Speed Density. Stock block only like ~320HP, rebuilt engine has less than ~10k miles. Problem began out of the blue - rough idle (sounds like misfire) with 18+ AFR's until warmed up, then rough idle goes away and AFR is back to normal like ~14.7. Sometimes on cold startup it will fire up and go to 1500rpms then die or when it's still running lean and i try to take off in 1st gear it will die (at the very least noticeably less power and seems to bog - only when AFR's are lean). No CELs, is this due to the fact that I have a tune, or will it still throw a CEL if it has a tune on it? I don't think it has anything to do with the tune, was recently tuned less than a year ago.

Here's what I've tried
-Boost leak test - fixed all leaks, TB shafts are ok, injector O rings didnt seem to leak
-Tightened Coil Packs
-Checked sensors

What I'm going to try
-Check spark plugs
-Clean PCV
-Reset ECU - unplug battery for 1 hour
-Try to get my datalogging working, and go from there

Quick question - if I reset my ecu, will that erase the tune I have? just worried about messing up my tune somehow..

kaj

iTrader: (60)

DCing the battery will not affect your tune. It's a good way to start with a clean slate, then see what happens.

c_sautter

iTrader: (4)

I had issues with breaking up during boost to the point that the car shut off, turns out I had a bad fuel pump. That caused my AFR to lean out and broke 2 of the 4 spark plugs, and I was also having all sorts of issues with idle and even cruising at a normal speed.

9TechNine9

Thanks for sharing! Based on my symptoms I think my problem isn't fuel related. AFR trim levels are on par when cruising and boosting. I only have problems during idle, specifically cold start idle. I pulled my COP out the other day to get to the spark plugs, didn't have the right socket to pull the plugs but i could tell there was a light orange/yellow residue in one of the spark plug tunnels (closest piston to trans, not sure which # that is). I'm going to pull the plugs soon here and check that out first, I think that could be my issue and the cylinder thats misfiring. I really need to get my open source ecuflash working... I just can't figure out how to edit my rommetadata folder.

TariqEvo

in my 8 sometimes the car leans or richens a bit when i let it idle, was told it does that to adjust fuel trims..
and i've seen the same in multiple evos as well.

you can also have a leak on the manifold gaskets, how much boost is it holding when u do the boost leak test?