Biggiesacks

If you can find a spot directly on the frame rail that would be ideal. You can test resistance with your Meter between your chosen point and your battery chassis ground. You wan't basically 0 if you can get it, but the lower the better. While doing that you might find there is a better spot for your battery chassis ground then what is already there.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

True that. I’ll try it for sure.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

Omg what a difference. I haven’t even started adding grounds yet. The car starts like never before. Idle sounds way better. Steady! Voltage at battery is now in the 14s. When I turn on ac and lights with fans on you can still hear idle drop though. I used 2 grounds at the battery. Spare tire and a bolt inside quarter panel. Both 2 awg wire.

2winscroll

Carpet in the trunk? I thought you tiled your trunk?

2winscroll

:SPIT:
Looks good tho!

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

Lol. Yeah I fixed the trunk up. Remember I’m a father of 3 so need to have a usable trunk. Plus, it looks like **** without it.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

Any ideas of good places to add extra grounds? Should I just replace the ones I can with thicker wire? If it helps at all I’d like to do it. It’s a night and day difference after I did all of this. I bet with extra grounds it’s be a lot better. I’m hooked!

Biggiesacks

What I like to do is add one big engine to chassis ground, and then wire as many other chassis grounds as i can to that point. Group 70 (Component Locations) of the Factory service manual shows where every chassis ground in the car is. It wont be practical to get all of them, but the under hood ones, as well as like the ECU/HVAC ones will be good to try and get. Since you have the battery in the trunk, I would go straight from the fuel pump negative to the battery chassis ground for sure.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

The fuel pump negative? That must be 8 or 9 in that picture?

Biggiesacks

Yah i think thats right. What I did, and what I would advise you to do though is run another negative for the pump. If you upgrade the positive you also have to upgrade the negative. You are at an advantage having the battery so close to the pump, I would go straight from the pump harness connector to the battery chassis ground.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

Ok so I have to figure out which one is the fuel pump ground. Why about that big 3 upgrade people are doing? Running a bigger wire from alternator to the fuse box? Would that be helpful?

Biggiesacks

So the Big 3 is basically about upgrading the alternator to battery, battery to chassis, chassis to alternator. That's the full circle that needs upgrading when you start demanding a lot from your power supply. I think if you add a new big ground from the engine to the chassis you will have basically completed the big 3 upgrade.

Usually when you install aftermarket electronics you run new power circuits for them, so upgrading the alternator to fuse panel isn't usually necessary. It would be good to do though esp since your battery is relocated. Normally the fuse panel has a direct link to the battery, in your setup its at the end of a long daisy chain. During things like cold cranking and what not you could see a larger voltage drop at the fuse panel then you would if the battery was right next to it. In that situation a bigger cable would help. If you are going to bypass the factory fuse, you should add a fuse holder with your own fuse.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

Yeah I’m defenetly doing that but would it be beneficial to replace the alternator wire or add a big one to it? The alternator wire is like an 8 gauge.

Biggiesacks

Sorry I think i answered you in a not so ninja edit.

Evolevos

So i am in process of doing this same thing I am just wondering if it can be done without the evo x fuse block can it be done with the stock on on the ix and if so what would be the best way to mount it any ideas ?