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Might I ask how you have it mounted the stock ix fuse block that is or where it’s mounted
For now I just have it zip tied to the cable running along side the fuse box. The positive cable runs under the fuse box and into the fender. The cables that attach to the block are pretty stiff so it doesnt move around at all. Eventually Im going to make my own bracket that connects the fuse block to one of the battery tray bolt locations or the bolt that holds the fuse box.
For now I just have it zip tied to the cable running along side the fuse box. The positive cable runs under the fuse box and into the fender. The cables that attach to the block are pretty stiff so it doesnt move around at all. Eventually Im going to make my own bracket that connects the fuse block to one of the battery tray bolt locations or the bolt that holds the fuse box.
Thank you for the pictures might I ask what gauge wire that is and are you at all worried about the positive hitting the frame or anything correct me if I’m wrong but that could be really crappy if it did
Thank you for the pictures might I ask what gauge wire that is and are you at all worried about the positive hitting the frame or anything correct me if I’m wrong but that could be really crappy if it did
I used 1 gauge welding cable just for added insurance, 2 gauge is usually enough though. I would recommend welding cable over traditional battery cable because its a lot more flexible and usually better build quality. The positive cable does not move at all, so no im not worried.
Lol. So I’m doing a parasitic draw test because my battery used to always die after a couple days of car sitting. This is the result. According to videos I’ve seen it seems fine? Unless I accidentally fixed it with everything I did. What do you think?
congrats, great results from a job well done. 20 milliamps is perfectly normal. Going forward if your still having battery troubles its probably going to be from a weak battery.
Lol. So I’m doing a parasitic draw test because my battery used to always die after a couple days of car sitting. This is the result. According to videos I’ve seen it seems fine? Unless I accidentally fixed it with everything I did. What do you think?
200ma would be a problem, 20ma is actually very good. Make sure your alarm is armed, maybe that’s the cause? Also if you’ve replaced the alternator that can fix the problem too. Many time the voltage regulator can go bad causing a draw. Or if the battery top is really dirty or just a battery with internal leakage can drain itself down.
200ma would be a problem, 20ma is actually very good. Make sure your alarm is armed, maybe that’s the cause? Also if you’ve replaced the alternator that can fix the problem too. Many time the voltage regulator can go bad causing a draw. Or if the battery top is really dirty or just a battery with internal leakage can drain itself down.
Actually, rented a house on the beach with the fam for the weekend but before I left yesterday I noticed the little light on the alarm wasn’t turning on. I pressed the button on the little thing that’s hanging from the roof liner behind the rear view mirror and light turned on. Maybe alarm wasn’t armed when I did the test? I disconnected that thing and then the locks wouldn’t work through the remote. Also noticed the alarm doesn’t beep anymore when I hit the lock or unlock button. I must’ve messed something up because I tore out a bunch of wires that looked like they weren’t connected. If battery is dead when I return I’ll know it is from the alarm. I was thinking of tearing out the alarm system but I have no idea what it looks like and also would suck to not have it lock and unlock by the remote. Also nice to have an alarm. I’ve been told these cars don’t like alarms.
Did the battery stop dying with all the grounds added?
Seems to be a common problem and I got a full sized battery now in the trunk but even then, doesn't like to sit. 14.8v when on so alternator is working but will slowly drain. Parasitic draw at .015 amps.
Jun 19, 2019, 07:16 AM
I'm glad it all worked out.
