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Another car won't start post.
So I installed my Snow meth kit yesterday, tested the system the pump comes on and all that good stuff, BUT now my car will not start.
I cant hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key on, but I did not touch anything that has to do with fuel, the only wiring I did was a MAF signal connection, 12v key on source, ground. Why would my fuel not prime now? Is it possible the relay or pump died just by chance? I started the car just fine before the install. Thx |
Originally Posted by FullBoostRacing
(Post 5337689)
So I installed my Snow meth kit yesterday, tested the system the pump comes on and all that good stuff, BUT now my car will not start.
I cant hear the fuel pump prime when I turn the key on, but I did not touch anything that has to do with fuel, the only wiring I did was a MAF signal connection, 12v key on source, ground. Why would my fuel not prime now? Is it possible the relay or pump died just by chance? I started the car just fine before the install. Thx What controller did you use? VC25D? The typical install does not require MAF input and furthermore that is not recommended for the EVO. You should be using a VC25 MAP controller. In your testing of the system you could have also flooded the intake system with methanol or water, wetting the plugs, and or hydrolocking the engine. |
I am using the VC25D and it’s the snow kit with an EVO part number and sticker right on the box.
When I wired in the controller this is what the manual says: Connect green to pump red wire Connect red to 12v key on source Connect yellow to MAF output (white wire with red stripe) Connect black to ground Also when I tested the system I did it with the nozzle out of the IC pipe so no fluid would go in the pipe. I have a walbro 255 installed and I am used to hearing that prime when I do key on, but now all I hear is the ticking or relays when I turn the key to on position. The car cranks it just will not fire. |
check all of your ignition power, our cars have 2 ignitions and 1 accessory. you could have accidently pooped a fuse!
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Originally Posted by lilman8403
(Post 5337813)
you could have accidently pooped a fuse!
Sorry, couldn't resist. What are your "no-start" symptoms? Crank but won't catch? No cranking at all? |
My fuel pump is loud when I put the key to the on position any other day, but now nothing. So I am thinking it’s a fuse or relay, what fuses are related to the pump priming?
I pulled all the ones under the hood and there good, the ones under the dash is a pain to get to (car alarm wiring in the way) so do I really need to check them all? Also what relay under the hood is the fuel pump relay? Thx |
Gerrrr this is starting to get on my nerves still will not start. I pulled every fuse and there all good.
New questions: How do I test to see if it’s the relay? Its there a place I can hook 12v up to the pump to test the pump without taking the pump out of the tank? On MAFT GEN2 box I can see data for everything when I am trying to crank, HZ in, HZ out, air flow, bat volt, but there is no RPM data. Does RPM register when cranking? I am not sure if my GEN2 box was showing RPM while cranking before this issue but so for it’s the only data not moving on the controller when trying to start it. Once the car is started (when it was starting) the RPM does show up right. Thanks |
i know this sounds like a pain but if you cant figure it out you could disconnect the snow wiring points and see if it starts
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I did, the snow kit is unwired right now.
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RPM should register... I think.
And just to be sure, you did tap the air signal after the MAF GEN2 right? Because It should get a GM MAF signal, and convert it to karmen vortex, which is what most SNOW controllers refrence. I'd suggest not connecting the maf signal, as it will defalt (run) off of just boost refrence. And then start a thorough elimination of reasons it won't start. You need fuel/air/spark/compression for the engine to run. And as for the fuel pump, I dunno, you got me on that one. I see no reason it would stop working. |
Originally Posted by steadly2004
(Post 5344922)
RPM should register... I think.
And just to be sure, you did tap the air signal after the MAF GEN2 right? Because It should get a GM MAF signal, and convert it to karmen vortex, which is what most SNOW controllers refrence. I'd suggest not connecting the maf signal, as it will defalt (run) off of just boost refrence. And then start a thorough elimination of reasons it won't start. You need fuel/air/spark/compression for the engine to run. And as for the fuel pump, I dunno, you got me on that one. I see no reason it would stop working. How can I check spark? (IX Coil on plug) to make sure everything is cool with that side of things. I am going to the dealer tomorrow to get a fuel pump relay and try that, if that’s a no go then I am going to just hook the pump up to 12v to see if it works. What I am worried about is if I replace the relay, test the pump and it works then its back to square one :crap: Also I can’t remember what the cluster looked like before with the key in the on position, but as of right now all the lights on the left of the cluster are staying on except the service engine soon light. Is that normal? |
I dont' know about the lights.
But for spark, you could try and pull a plug, and hold it against something metal, like your block. Then have someone crank the car. Be very careful not to get shocked here! And don't let anything get into the cylinder (ie put a rag on top) and be sure there isn't a fuel source to ignite where you are testing it. Also, go back and double check the connections that you hooked up the meth controller to. Ensure that they are not severed/or touching a ground. OH, and if you want to see if you have fuel pressure, crank it once or twice, and then pull a fuel line(probably return will be enough to tell but the fuel feed line shoudl really be pressurized). There should be some pressure/fuel if it has actually been pumping. If it hasn't, it will not even have residule. |
Another way to check if your getting fuel is to pull the fuel rail. There are two 12mm or 10mm bolts (I don't remember which one) that bolt it down. Pull the fuel rail up and the injectors should come up with it. Have someone try to start the car and you'll see if fuel is shooting out the injectors. If you don't mind a little fuel shooting on the engine. It only takes a couple minutes to do.
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i didnt read any of the other posts but did you check your fuses?
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have you checked your battery voltage yet? if the car isn't cranking, but making clicking noises when trying to start, that can indicate a bad battery. if you had the domelight on for a long time, it might have drained it. try jumpstarting the car. or pushstart the car if you can
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