Strut bar question's.. Please answer
 

Ok I don't know much about strut bars... As u can probley tell... Well..

I ordered a tein strut bar and I got it yesterday...so I went too install it and I didint like it so I went back too the stock strut. So my questions are...

The stock strut bar wa waaay heavier than the aluminum tein bar... Does weight matter?

Are all aftermarket strut bars lighter than the stock bar? I thought the heavier the bar the better the balance...?

What concerned me was the fact that the aftermarket strut bar did not bolt up in the middle... Only on the sides for the suspension... Is that a problem?

Are all aftermarket strut bars like this? Where they don't bolt up in the middle? If so or even not is this not a problem?

All these things concern me... The weight , compared to stock..& thr bolt up in thr middle... Is this not an issue?

Thanks guys...

If its not mounted to all 3 points, then the bar is probably doing very little. There isn't a whole lot of stress in the axis of a the bar connected at 2 points. I would venture a guess there is more flex in the plane created by these 3 points (flex)

To racers, yes weight does matter. The lighter you can make your car the faster it can go. To serious racers, every ounce matters.

I have not felt every aftermarket bar so I can't say, but chances are that if they are made of aluminum, they will be lighter. Heavier is not better. It maybe stronger, but if it's designed and built right, a good aluminum bar will be better.

If you are not looking for the most rigid and best handling car you can get, then no, it doesn't matter and it's not a problem. Not all aftermarket bars are like this and some will bolt to the firewall like stock. It is best to have the struts tied to the firewall though.

Unless you're trying to shave off every pound off the car, I would stick with stock (tri-mount) over Tein (2 sides)...unless you just want a Tein theme.

ARC sells one that bolts up in the middle also. Not sure of the weight but it's expensive tho. I rather put my money elsewhere.

Perfect.... Thanks for the information guys. Very helpfull.

The cusco unit would be something you may want to look into. As far as the stock bar is concerned, it's not a bad unit. If your not shooting to shave off a tenth in the quarter mile than weight dosent matter. Atleast not like that

I have a cusco and its lighter, its a 3 point, it looks way better, and id recommend it for anyone,


http://i53.tinypic.com/291g8yt.jpg

Wow, that does look good man.... I would ask people too post more pics of strut but I'm guessing they won't. Looks like I'm might get that...

Seriously man I'm trying too find this strut bar this guy has on his car... I have it in another post the link is...

http://i54.tinypic.com/25pprac.jpg

do u have any idea what strut bar is on that car?
Iv been trying too find it... Even tho I might not get it cuz of the whole 2 peice and not tri... But I was curious on what bar that was and what catch can he had installed on the firewall.

The only reason to upgrade, IMO is weight and if you find one with an integrated master cylinder brace.

This Bar...Is It "Cusco Front Strut Bar Type OS for Mitsubishi EVO 8-9 CT9A (3-Point with BCS)"??


What do u think about the "GTSPEC Type F Front Strut Brace For EVO VIII / IX (3 Point)"??

http://www.lancershop.com/customer/p...cat=103&page=1

I traded my CF lip for that bar, so honestly I dont know the model number, but the one on lancer shop your looking at looks like the same thing, you should show a store the pic and ask what it is, they will probably know

Agreed. When you shave weight everywhere you can, on the entire car, you don't end up with pounds saved; you end up with hundreds of pounds. Also, if you're building an Evo for handling, not drag racing, any weight you can take off the front end of the car will serve to slightly improve the car's extremely front-heavy weight bias and help it to turn better.

Just for the record, here are the weights of the OEM Evo 8/9 strut brace and the TEIN strut brace:

OEM Evo 8/9 front strut tower brace w/ 2 center mounting bolts: 7.44 lb.
TEIN front strut tower brace complete w hardware and mounting brackets: 3.25 lb.

Obviously, if all you want to do is save weight, the easiest/cheapest option is just to remove the strut tower brace entirely. For most drivers/vehicle builds, not having a strut tower brace is not going to make any difference in terms of driver feel or actual lap/autocross run times.

Cusco brace ftw! But if you're into drag racing then remove the whole thing and re-install afterwards. You would be surprised what a bolt on Evo will do in the 1/4 with stripping the car for the strip