Want to Purchase a Built short block ?s
 

So I blew up my stock motor and I've been calling around and looking on the forum for built motors. I have a few questions. Why are there such drastic price differences between Buscher, Slow boy, AWD motors and other companys. Some require cores some don't. and why are 2.4 less then a 2.3. I have the money to get one but I see a 2.4 for 3000 with no core then I see a 2.0 for 3000 with 1700 core charge.... can someone clear this up for me?

2.4 is a 4g69 block versus a 2.0 being a 4g63...a 4g63 is a more valued platform and is worth more

that'd be one statistic in the equation of cost

every vendor will offer a block with different components as far as pistons and rods are concerned...again varying heavily in price

Is the quality any better on the 4g63 or is it just cause they are more rare

It depends on your goals, 2.0 seems to generally be regarded as a better drag engine because of its revability, and many people like the 2.4 for a street car for its torque and quick spool. Both are solid and proven engines.

forget the 4g63 haa my 4g64 will own as car as price its all in the internal components chosen to do the job. Its all in what you want out of your car. Are you dragging 24/7 or road course autox and street use. That will determine the block you
buy heavy

It is frustrating. I have my cylinder head out for rebuild and went thru the same thing. None of the 4G63 big name shops were as competive or have what i needed, forcing me to go outside the box. Still went to a evom vendor though.

or you can stick with the 4g63 and get a 2.3?? lol

which vendor did u go with? which modifications are nessesary when going from stock to 2.4

PM'd

get the map 2.4

http://www.maperformance.com/maperfo...vo-stage2.html

looks pretty solid to me{thumbup}

^ +1 for the money, that really seems like a solid deal.

Again, depends on your goals. I'd recommend a 2.3 or 2.4 for street use. Heavy drag- 2.0/2.1-2, road racing - depends on what kind of tracks you are looking at going to.

Thanks for the referral guys :) The reason for the difference in pricing mostly involves the core charge as the 2.4's are cheaper to source than a stock Evo core. With that said our pricing should be very competitive, our customer service is unmatched, and the results in my signature speak for themselves. Please let me know if I can be of any assistance!

what all different parts do you need for a 2.4? like timing belt kit, head gasket, waterpump. Do you have a 2.4 conversion package?

GO LR2.4 AND DON'T LOOK BACK!!!

If you guys go with MAP get them to do a Wiseco HD 10.5:1 (1.13CH) piston if you are doing race gas or E85 and if pump do 9.7:1 or lower. Using a 1.13CH piston allows you to run a 156mm rod allowing your 2.4 to rev 300rpm higher than a std 2.3/2.4. Not to mention the Wiseco pistons are not suppose to have side load problems and having a longer rod also helps that as well.

The other thing to look at is the stock 4G64 cranks are not the best for oiling so if you stick with the stock crank I would get the AMS oil pan and a kiggly HLA. Just my opinion, but I don't think an aftermarket crank is needed with the right parts.

The next thing you need to look into is head gaskets. Some people have problems keep head gaskets on the 4G64 motors. I run an 87mm bore and I recommend nothing but the Power Enterprise HG. Yes. they are more $$$ than others but they have proven to hold up to almost anything without problems.

Last but not least, you can't run a normal cam with a 2.4L... for ex: S2s work great for 2.0 HTA3586 800hp reving to 8500rpm. However you now throw that combo on a 2.4L and you have problems. You are choking the motor in high rpms. The 2.4L requires 20% more air flow than a 2.0 so you need a larger cam to flow 20% more air than the S2s. Look into getting a cam with a high ramp rate and effective duration. Then you have to have Kiggly springs to handle a high ramp rate cam. my ramp is 38/38 which is one of the highest that I know of!

Here is a graph of a cam swap and how important it is to have the right cam for a 2.4L. Nothing was changed but the cam. It was even on .5 less psi... Just from a cam change, I gained 126hp at peak power and 170hp at 8k. I also held 91flbs more at peak hp. These cams woke the car up. The first dyno the car had a HKS 272i/280e combo

Attachment 338718

If you have any questions let me know!

If you really wanted to get ballzy I would try a Wiseco HD 10.5:1 (1.02CH piston) with a 159mm Allunimun rod. It would be a tight fit but should work. The only worry would be the strength of the piston. However, Wiseco tells me it will hold :D I might run oil squirters just for added cooling of the piston though... Just a thought!

Mikey