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The"I don't feel like doing that" clutch replacement method
Didn't want to
Disconnect knuckle from lower arm Disconnect tie rods Disconnect power steering lines (hydraulically) Disconnect steering shaft and I didn't want subframe in the way Did remove Entire strut assemblies, just so much easier with them out of the way (will require alignment) HP PS line bracket from subframe and upper PS mount on end of engine Subframe bolts/nuts (will need to tie up or eventually remove TC). Key was to get one really long bolt or threaded rod to put in pass side rearward subframe connection. this allows subframe to drop and pivot rearward on drivers side, but still more or less keeps it up in the air and aligned. Remove dash/column panels and remove all 4 bolts from steering col. (wrap rag around wiring so it does not get cut). Helps to have 2 people, but lower subframe on drivers side, and pivot it rearward slightly, under front of frame (LIGHT pressure from ratchet strap rearward helps) . At the same time, slide steering column slightly down inside hole, in metal part of dash. Steering shaft u-joint can now drop down 3+ inches through boot. Plenty of space after that for trans. I really did not want to mess with steering shaft alignment or remove tie rods/ball joints, so this worked out great for me. May be impossible without lift. |
Holy crap that's a lot of work just to avoid undoing the lower ball joints. Literally nothing else in your list is required or even helps all that much, zero need to undo hydraulic lines, tie rods, k member or steering shaft. The ball joints are super easy to separate, just turn the wheel and use a drift to spread the knuckle slightly and they drop right out.
If you have difficulty clearing the transmission, take a scissor jack between the oil pan and the K member to push the engine forward slightly. Kudos for a different approach, but man it seems like the 3 minutes you saved not undoing the ball joints added about 3 hours of work and necessitated an alignment to a 45 minute job getting the tranny out. |
^^ agreed. Seems like you went way out of the way and did a lot of unnecessary labor. You don't even have to mess with the lower ball joints. Just undo the brake line bracket and the two strut bolts and you can move it enough to get the cv shafts out easily.
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On anything but a newer rust free car, pulling the subframe is filled with peril. But if new and rust free and if you have the equipment to get the car up and also handle the subframe, then that's a good way to go. On my 2003, not a good choice.
Breaking the ball joint connection on this car is simplicity itself, not something to be avoided. But, In the end, what counts is a job completed. |
Yeah, I never claimed it was the fastest way. :D In my defense, I was also putting
in new front sway bar (and didn't want to take half the paint off), resealing TC (which I removed) and putting in Bilsteins. I wanted enough space so trans could be jacked in line with motor. With bellhousing starting beyond outer edge of clutch. I dropped motor as far as I could until pulleys were going to hit frame. Even then, studs for trans/frame mount were almost hitting frame. Any other way and it appears you have to angle trans upward, before it goes inward, which I did not want to do (I guess you could pull studs out of trans, didn't try it). Anyway, just figured I'd post up in case anyone else wanted to do it this way, it is possible. |
Originally Posted by barneyb
(Post 11691754)
On anything but a newer rust free car, pulling the subframe is filled peril. But if new and rust free and if you have the equipment to get the car up and also handle the subframe, then that's a good way to go. On my 2003, not a good choice.
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When I did my clutch I took a Demel to those studs at the fender side transmission mount and cut them a thread or two above the nuts. They are long and pointy just for quick assembly at the factory. I also pulled the control housing (where the shifter cables connect). Then with the engine on a hanger I dropped the transmission end of the engine and put the jack from the trunk between the bottom of the engine and firewall and pushed it forward.
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all you need to do is unhook the steering rack from the steering shaft and unbolt the subframe and leave it hanging under the car..
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1 Attachment(s)
Originally Posted by kikiturbo
all you need to do is unhook the steering rack from the steering shaft and unbolt the subframe and leave it hanging under the car..
Only extra step I take is completely removing the tcase from the car. OP, your method still requires an alignment because you unbolted the subframe. |
Originally Posted by kikiturbo
(Post 11693112)
all you need to do is unhook the steering rack from the steering shaft and unbolt the subframe and leave it hanging under the car..
and have to try and realign it.
Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
(Post 11693114)
I wouldn't leave the steering rack hanging lol.
Only extra step I take is completely removing the tcase from the car. OP, your method still requires an alignment because you unbolted the subframe. And yeah, need alignment anyway as I put in 9 Bilsteins and the 9 springs. I thought I read somewhere that 9 rear springs ended up with slightly lower ride height than 8's (which would affect rear alignment slightly at least). I have my own alignment system (15 year old Hunter) I use on my 4 post, so no big deal either way. Only problem I may have is the heads I have, require rotating 360 degrees to align them, that could be fun with all the other wheels wanting to rotate at the same time. Maybe I'll disconnect fwd part of driveshaft after I get it on rack. |
I have done the clutch on e8, 9 and X, and did take the SST box out of the X far too many times to find out that taking the subframe off is a must...
Steering shaft is sort off indexed, but what we do is mark it with a pen and it goes back in in the same position with no issues.. Thing is, you can unhook it and connect it back when everything is in the car, so you can align it precisely... the lower part of the shaft is telescopic, held with a sort of elastic circlip.. Leaving the subframe to hang below the car means you do not have to fiddle with servo lines and do not have to take apart the rod ends and lower ball joints.. Also, with the subframe out of the way it is much easier to bolt the tcase back on.. One thing mitsu did that was super stupid is making the steering rack bolted from above... on modern cars you can unbolt it from below and just leave it on the car when taking the subframe off.. Also, on the ACD cars you have to take off the hydraulic line to take one of the bolts off... rally guys just leave that bolt off the tcase and then when they service the gearbox in the field can take the tcase off and leave it on the car, ACD line attached and all.. These days we prefer to take the whole engine out but we do it on a lift.. |
Originally Posted by OX
(Post 11691597)
Didn't want to
Hi how long did the clutch replacement job took you? Disconnect knuckle from lower arm Disconnect tie rods Disconnect power steering lines (hydraulically) Disconnect steering shaft and I didn't want subframe in Did remove Entire strut assemblies, just so much easier with them out of the way (will require alignment) HP PS line bracket from subframe and upper PS mount on end of engine Subframe bolts/nuts (will need to tie up or eventually remove TC). Key was to get one really long bolt or threaded rod to put in pass side rearward subframe connection. this allows subframe to drop and pivot rearward on drivers side, but still more or less keeps it up in the air and aligned. Remove dash/column panels and remove all 4 bolts from steering col. (wrap rag around wiring so it does not get cut). Helps to have 2 people, but lower subframe on drivers side, and pivot it rearward slightly, under front of frame (LIGHT pressure from ratchet strap rearward helps) . At the same time, slide steering column slightly down inside hole, in metal part of dash. Steering shaft u-joint can now drop down 3+ inches through boot. Plenty of space after that for trans. I really did not want to mess with steering shaft alignment or remove tie rods/ball joints, so this worked out great for me. May be impossible without lift. |
Originally Posted by eddy5201314
(Post 11694287)
Hi how long did the clutch replacement job took you?
a time start to finish for just the clutch. I think you could do it in 10 hours if every thing goes perfect, you have all the tools and ability, and someone to help you put trans back in. Much less if you are on a lift. |
The only point of being fast is doing this for a living. I remember spending an afternoon just tinkering with the throw out arm. DIY saves the cost of labor but the real benefit is taking the time necessary to do a perfect job.
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Originally Posted by OX
(Post 11694471)
I did a lot of other things while I was doing this, so I don't have
a time start to finish for just the clutch. I think you could do it in 10 hours if every thing goes perfect, you have all the tools and ability, and someone to help you put trans back in. Much less if you are on a lift. did you have to removed the whole transmission to just replace the clutch and flywheel? |
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