just what the title says:
unfortunately, i followed the EVOMOTO.com how to install camshafts and overlooked the fact that I was suppose to bleed the lifters. I have found a way from the VFAQ website on how to bleed and clean them without taking out the camshafts (basically prying them off).
I only hear the ticking after the engine warms up and when i rev it to about 1200-1700 rpm. But after 3000rpm, it basically goes faint due to the loud engine sound.

I followed the Alldata instruction on gradually revving the engine to 3000 and then dropping it and doing this 15sec intervals for 30 times, but that didnt work. So i may have a bad lifter.

I know that 4G63s are notorious on ticking, but not to this extent.
My question is, is it safe to run with the ticking?
is it alright to do the same method of prying off the rockers to get to the lifters?
is it alright to run hard with the lifters like this, because someone mentioned that at higher RPMs, oil actually drives the lifters up and actually performs normally.
how long does it take to break-in the HKS 264s.

I analyzed the ticking sound thoroughly and it sounds like it is coming from the intake side near the fuel rail. Everyone says that it is usually the #2 on the intake side. Some say, it could be the injectors. The injectors do tick loud but why would they tick after a cam install?

I know that GIL would probably hunt and chew me down on this because he was suppose to do the install for me, but I just couldnt wait. Everything was fine with the install the first day, until i changed the oil the next day, and then I started to hear the ticking the next morning on my way to work.

Any advice, help, assistance especially for the techs/experts would be greatly appreciated. thanks!

 

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bump

 

ok I ll try and help you out. Many DSMs have had lifter tick, I had it on my 99 gst and it was loud as ***. The only way to get rid of it is to replace or clean your lifters. At some point it may come back.

Alot of people ignore it and have no problems. I have heard that the knock sensor can pick up the tapping if its loud enough and then then computer will pull timing. I have never experienced this.

I cant tell you that you wont have problems; We just cleaned mine when we did the cams. and my tick was comming from the same place that you have described.

 

BTW whats up with the link in your sig; it doesnt work.

 

I actually just replaced my lifters last night with the 2g dsm ones, ticking is still there but I didn't give them enough time to see if the ticking is completely gone. It is a lot better though.

 

I checked this issue out before my install and found contrary info.

The following is my best recollection of the advice I found:

The source was a local DSM group with several long time members, as well as a local pro who said that bleeding "lifters" was done in the old big block engines where the tolerances weren't as tight, and the travel of the components was greater.

First, they are not lifters, they are lash adjusters, and apparently require different consideration, namely none if they are carefully seated with the new cams.

Gently roll the lubed cam into their obvious seating (the term nitch comes to mind), careful not to knock of the little lash caps, before putting the large caps that retain the cams, back on.

As you begin to replace the cam caps and slowly tighten the bolts, "jiggle roll" (trademaked term :-) the cams back and forth, to find the same "seat" that the original cam enjoyed. Do this for the entire initial stage of tightening the caps, a little bit at a time untill all of the available play has disappeared.

I turned (clockwise) the crank several times, very gently at first, then check your cap bolts for new found room, and tighten as necessary, saving the final torque for a quality torque wrench.

I added a small bead of oil while doing this a few times to ensure lubrication.

My stock tapping disappeared with the new 272/264 combo. It remained quiet when I went to a 264/264 set up.

Hope your install goes well.
Dean

 

Service manual says the lash adjusters have to be washed, rinsed/bled, and serviced with diesel fuel before installation.