Convert GSR/RS to Factory HID w/Fogs
Feb 14, 2006, 09:11 AM
#1
Convert GSR/RS to Factory HID w/Fogs
I have been looking for information on how to install factory HIDs into an Evo that did not come with HID or fog lights to no avail. Here is something that might help the next guy trying to make this conversion.
My goal was to use the factory switches so that it looked like it came that way from the factory. One of the many obsticles in this conversion is that the factory Mitsubishi fog light switch is momentary and a latching trigger needed to be added to keep the lights on even after you released the button. Below is a schematic for a latching trigger required to keep the circuit in a closed loop.
Now for the fun part. Take off the front of your car apart head lights and all.
Then cut off the factory 4-pin connector head light plugs from the wiring harness.
Before you even start this project you will need some doner parts from a HID equiped wiring harness. Specifically the 8-pin head light connectors and fog light connectors.
Required for this mod were a soldering iron, heat shrink tubing, relays, circuit breakers, split loom tubing, tie wraps, wire, various spade and ring connectors, mounting hardware etc.
The key to using the factory switch is the use of two relays and a diode to make the latching trigger pictured below. Note the diode in the connector with the orange wire on the left.
This job actually required 5 relays. 2 for the latching trigger plus on to bring power directly from the battery (circuit breaker protected). These are the 3 relays on the top. the lower 2 relays are for each HID.
Below is the finalized installation of the relay panel which doubles as a heat shield keeping the warm air away from the intake.
Because my '05 GSR did not come with any of the wiring provisions in the fuse box for HID or fogs, I had to improvise. Below are 3 thermally activated circuit breakers. The left and right HIDs have an independent 20 amp breaker to provided power to each. A 10 gauge wire feeds the relays (1 for each head light) that conect to the doner 8-pin headlight harness. I dabbed some silicone over the battery side terminals to insulate them against any unwanted arc welding from actions such as fallen wrenches etc..
I did all of the wiring on this this past weekend between coats of paint on my new HID housings. Yup, I split them apart myself, did the painting and resealing.
I tried to be original and give the parking lights and turn signals a little bit different twist than what others have been doing. Note that both are amber with no chrome. no these are not vinyl overlays. The clear plastic outer cover was painted on the inside so as not to wear.
My goal was to use the factory switches so that it looked like it came that way from the factory. One of the many obsticles in this conversion is that the factory Mitsubishi fog light switch is momentary and a latching trigger needed to be added to keep the lights on even after you released the button. Below is a schematic for a latching trigger required to keep the circuit in a closed loop.
Now for the fun part. Take off the front of your car apart head lights and all.
Then cut off the factory 4-pin connector head light plugs from the wiring harness.
Before you even start this project you will need some doner parts from a HID equiped wiring harness. Specifically the 8-pin head light connectors and fog light connectors.
Required for this mod were a soldering iron, heat shrink tubing, relays, circuit breakers, split loom tubing, tie wraps, wire, various spade and ring connectors, mounting hardware etc.
The key to using the factory switch is the use of two relays and a diode to make the latching trigger pictured below. Note the diode in the connector with the orange wire on the left.
This job actually required 5 relays. 2 for the latching trigger plus on to bring power directly from the battery (circuit breaker protected). These are the 3 relays on the top. the lower 2 relays are for each HID.
Below is the finalized installation of the relay panel which doubles as a heat shield keeping the warm air away from the intake.
Because my '05 GSR did not come with any of the wiring provisions in the fuse box for HID or fogs, I had to improvise. Below are 3 thermally activated circuit breakers. The left and right HIDs have an independent 20 amp breaker to provided power to each. A 10 gauge wire feeds the relays (1 for each head light) that conect to the doner 8-pin headlight harness. I dabbed some silicone over the battery side terminals to insulate them against any unwanted arc welding from actions such as fallen wrenches etc..
I did all of the wiring on this this past weekend between coats of paint on my new HID housings. Yup, I split them apart myself, did the painting and resealing.
I tried to be original and give the parking lights and turn signals a little bit different twist than what others have been doing. Note that both are amber with no chrome. no these are not vinyl overlays. The clear plastic outer cover was painted on the inside so as not to wear.
Feb 15, 2006, 01:18 PM
#7
No offense taken. I'll try to make a more detailed schematic at a later date for the fog and HID sytems incuding switches, relays and circuit breakers. I have a pretty busy schedule, but I'll work it in some how. I'm also goiung to take some video of all the lights. This set-up allows the fogs to remain on even with the high beams on or the parking lights off.
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Mar 23, 2006, 08:43 AM
#8
I have had several members PM me requesting information on the paint I used to get the orange color on the turn signals. I got it from am hobby shop that sells R/C cars.
Tamiya TS-73
Clear Orange
It also works great on the side marker lights if you want to make them orange like the JDM GTO markers:
Tamiya TS-73
Clear Orange
It also works great on the side marker lights if you want to make them orange like the JDM GTO markers:
Last edited by WavMixer; Mar 23, 2006 at 03:55 PM.
Jun 25, 2007, 05:43 PM
#13
I've been off these boards for a while and just found tons of messages about this. Please direct any questions to me by email at email@wavmixer.com
Jul 17, 2008, 01:37 PM
#15
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This relay circut might work a little better. The first schematic will trigger the 12v output but pulsing it again wont turn off the circut. You would have to remove the ground from the circut to turn it off. You hit the fog switch.. "on"..hit it again..still "on"
The circut below works perfectly with the factory fog switch, but its a little bulky. you could possibly make it with some tiny rellays and one normal size for the output. Even better, someone could draw up a solid state circut.
Keep in mind this for wiring up the fogs without using the factory harness, which is good for me since i want to make it as non permenant as possible. Hope this helps. By the way im using 1N4001 diodes. I've tested the set up and it works.This is from
http://the12volt.com
The pulse would be a negative signal from the fog switch. You could also use a normal SPST switch but I wanted a factory look. Next is to figure out how to trigger the dash indicator light.
The circut below works perfectly with the factory fog switch, but its a little bulky. you could possibly make it with some tiny rellays and one normal size for the output. Even better, someone could draw up a solid state circut.
Keep in mind this for wiring up the fogs without using the factory harness, which is good for me since i want to make it as non permenant as possible. Hope this helps. By the way im using 1N4001 diodes. I've tested the set up and it works.This is from
http://the12volt.com
The pulse would be a negative signal from the fog switch. You could also use a normal SPST switch but I wanted a factory look. Next is to figure out how to trigger the dash indicator light.
Last edited by Skywarp; Jul 17, 2008 at 04:05 PM.
