Yes, those tips were covered on page 2 or so back in 2006. The grenade pin going back in wasn't really covered well though and there is some confusion above on this page.

If the pin goes back in easily, you are in spec. BUT, it is also possible for it to be in a position where the pin won't go back in but it is still in spec. Only way to know is to measure it. If I remember correctly the gap spec is .15 to .18 inches (can be found elsewhere in this thread). The pin will only fit back in if you're in a relatively narrow part of that range. I like to stay on the lower side of the allowable range even if it makes the grenade pin a little tight. You can measure with a typical digital or analog caliper. Still no need for the special tool to adjust this.

 

so do ya'll adjust the tensioner pully to this position circled in the picture Before or After the grenade pin is pulled on the timing belt tensioner?

 

yes, in order to get the proper load on the hydraulic tensioner it all comes down to that pulley. Like mentioned several times before, make sure the load you have on that pulley allows for you to move the grenade pin back and forth. Once you achieve that, then you can tighten that pulley bolt and pray its within spec. Turn the crank as many revolution's as it takes so everything lines back up again.. I believe its 3 or 4, and let it sit for a 30-40 seconds, if you can freely move that grenade pin then you got perfect tension. Its a tedious job, but once you do it, you'll be relieved.

 

Another way of doing this is to grind a couple of pieces of metal to mike to 0.15 and 0.18 inches. If the 0.18 feeler fits you are too loose. If the 0.15 feeler won't fit your are too tight.

 

I used to do exactly that, but with drill bits. 5/32nds and 3/16ths are close.

 

 

"To avoid having to *** around with the screwdriver hole thing to make sure the rear balance shaft is in phase, put the timing mark on the oil pump sprocket at 12 oclock. If it rotates toward the mark on the case, it's in phase. If it rotates away from the mark, turn it one full turn. This is an old DSM trick that works on the EVO too. "

This is for the REAR balance shaft? The one that has its very own little timing belt? I had to reset the timing because I did valvesprings and rolled the crank with the cams out, but the little tiny timing belt that the REAR balance shaft has was still locked in place.

What about the one just in front of the crank? This is the one I am worried about.

 

Its for the front. The rear balance shaft (or right balance shaft in the manual), that has its own little timing belt is set just by the marks with the crank. No 1/2 out of phase there. Set the marks and forget about it.

The front, set the timing marks, and check that the screw driver fits in the hole. Easy.

 

LOOK just follow this and it will make your life a lot easier: http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

And you don't have to remove the crank bolt to get the balance shaft belt on either. The evo timing belt installation is IDENTICAL to the 2g DSM's.

The only difference is the timing marks line up on the valve cover and not the cam gears on the evo.
To get the bs belt on without removing the crank bolt just remove the crank angle sensor temp to slide it over the
trigger plate.

Also, its very important that you measure the deflection on your bs belt after you tighten the tensioner. If this belt is
to tight your car will run like total **** and the belt will get shredded within the first 100 miles and could potentially get
caught on the timing belt and cause big problems.

 

I used the screwdriver trick in the front of the block under the turbo today. Inside of the bolt the screwdriver went in pretty far, like almost 6 inches.

 

6 inches is plenty. If it hits, its in the first 1-2 inches. Just be sure you are using the largest Phillips screw driver that will fit in the hole. A thin one can still go around it even if it is out of phase.

 

this was a big phillips, the meaty kind

 

dont bother with the screw driver... people figured a way around that 12 years ago. it was noted here 100 times. set the timing mark on the pulley at 12 o clock and let go of it.... if it falls counter clockwise then its in phase, if it falls clockwise then rotate it a full turn then set it to 12 again and let go of it, now it will fall counter clockwise aka in phase. - done.

Taken directly from the vfaq:

NOTE that there is an easier way to do this. Simply rotate the mark on the oil pump sprocket until it is pointing straight up, and let it go. If the sprocket rotates towards (counterclockwise) the timing mark on the engine, the oil pump sprocket is aligned correctly. If it rotates away (clockwise) from the mark, spin the sprocket a full turn and test again, and it should properly rotate towards the mark now. Now line the mark on the sprocket back up with the mark on the engine. This avoids having to remove the rear access bolt entirely

why are you guys even wasting your time with the screw driver? do you not know that even the dealership uses the method above?

 

I tried to do that trick, but it wouldnt fall either way. You could rotate it back and forth and see which way it moved easier though. It moved easier TOWARDS the mark with the first spin, then easier away from the mark on the next spin. Thats why I thought I had it right on the first spin. Maybe my car is too new. It was SUPER easy getting the screwdriver infront of the block because I had no turbo or basically anything in front of the block because I am in the middle of a huge turbo swap project. I could have fit an elephant in front of my engine.

 

ah makes sense, you just wanted to be extra safe. In your case, I can understand going the screw driver route