Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

Yeah. just a few turns. Drive car...still a little notchy..adjust more. It takes less than a minute. I keep the 12mm wrench in my glove box and if I don't like the feel of the pedal I adjust it in a parking lot(reminds me. I have to adjust mine tomorrow)

itzcharlez

iTrader: (4)

cool! i'll try it out tomorrow when i go home.. i was always under the impression that the stock clutch pedal didn't need to be adjusted.. and even if it had to be it wasnt often..

the way you make it seem its like you adjust it althe time. is there alot of leway between two extremes? ( like too high and too low?) or is there a small saftey margin of play..

i'm also concerned about the 1mm-3mm of play in the pedal stated in page one.. i dont really understand that..

sorry for the noob questions.. its just im not with my car right now so i havnt had a chance to play with it yet.

Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

If you go to high you'll have to adjust your driving style...you'll notice right away. Like I said play with it. Only reason I have the 12mm is because my car was really stiff getting into gears. I tried the pedal adjustment and it made a night and day difference. I also bled my clutch system recently after installing the braided line.

Its not hard. I would say its about as hard as adjusting your seat to that spot before someone else sat in it.

SilverShadow03

iTrader: (19)

My Evo does the same....my clutch engages very close to the top.....So if I understand this 'How-To' correctly, I am to shorten the push rod length in order to lower the engagement point closer to the floor?

Thanks in advance.

Mike

Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

I believe it's counter clockwise.. You look and see if you turn it one direction the rod should get longer...that's to make the engagement lower. Also, higher clutch engagement (normally) = easier gear engagement

Digiflame

same process on 02 OZ?

Digiflame

great write up, unfortunately, the day i did it my clutch slave cylinder went out, all in all a confusing day

cij911

iTrader: (14)

On my '06 MR, the wrench point described is not 8mm, but rather 6mm. Other than that this post is very spot on....

With regards to checking engage point (TRE reference), couldn't one just take the car out cruise in 3 rd gear @ ~4K rpm and slowly push in the clutch to determine engagement point???

itzcharlez

iTrader: (4)

Quick question...... AS my stock clutch wears down... do i adjust the rod up? or down....
cause it aint as smooth as it use to be..

gt50

iTrader: (1)

This fixed my problem, with shifting when cold and notchiness when warm. I have owned my evo8 for one month now. I was certain that the tranny fluid needed replacement. Yesterday, as I left and thought about it while the car was cold, it reminded me of when my gsx project that I used to have, needed bleeding. But it only did this cold.

I did this last night and went for a test drive. It is shifting like butter now. I was able to make agressive/performance shifts with ease

The pedal was adjusted all the way to the floor on my car. I left it around the half-way mark.

BigBallin

iTrader: (9)

bumping old thread, but

so the less amount of threads showing means the pedal will engage closer to the floor or higher?

MR Turco

iTrader: (16)

where are the less amount of threads, on the back (rear of car) side of the nut or towards the front of the car.

The more of the bar that is towards the rear of the car, the lower, or closer to the floor the clutch will engage. The more the bar is towards the front of the car, the closer to the top the clutch will engage.

ODUB

iTrader: (8)

wow, could somebody find another way to state this that isn't so confusing?

exacc

The rod basically disengages/engages the clutch...

Think about it this way...when you step on the clutch, this pushes the rod into the firewall...at a certain point in the rod's shaft, the clutch disengages...this point in the rod is constant, and does not get adjusted here...

What is being adjusted is the clutch pedal relative to the rod.

So, the more you thread the rod so that it starts to go into the firewall, then you are making the clutch engage and disengage in a point where you don't need to move the clutch as much (higher on the pedal stroke)

The more you thread the rod so that it is less in the firewall when the pedal is not touched, then it will take more pedal movement to get the rod in the firewall...therefore, it will engage and disengage closer to the floor. (lower on the pedal stroke)

I hope this makes sense....

exacc

Short = closer to the floor engagement/disengagement point
Long = closer to the top engagement/disengagement point

SHORT


LONG