fostytou

iTrader: (15)

I never experienced it, but you could do all of the patches / removal except the charcoal canister / EVAP and that would still force gas tank expansion gasses into the intake manifold where it would have to get past the throttle body and through the whole piping system to be smell able. I don't think a significant enough amount of gasses could build up to cause a hazard, but if you are smelling fumes like that you probably are better off doing more research on your own.

EvoVIIIFL

iTrader: (39)

I noticed in this picture this is the OLD/bad way to do it correct?



I was wondering about the #1 in the diagram below this picture. I notice its capped off. Do we cap that off as well? I've done full EGR delete except the sealing on the intake manifold.





This is what I've done:
1) Capped #1
2) Connected 4 & 12 via #15
3) Capped #3

The check valve is not connected and removed with the connecting harnessed just zip tied out of the way.

This correct?

fostytou

iTrader: (15)

I apologize, I can't comment on most of this since it has been so long but probably the single-most important part is capping off the intake manifold if you remove the check valve... especially since that would be a post throttle body leak.

EvoVIIIFL

iTrader: (39)

If by capping off you mean and EGR delete plate I have already done that. I was looking to see if what I have done in my picture after removing the charcoal box if thats correct?

fostytou

iTrader: (15)

That's not what I mean...

I believe #1 is the line that connects to the larger nipple on the intake manifold. It has the check valve in-line. You want to cap this off at the intake manifold, so capping off this line near the charcoal canister might save it from getting gunk in it if you want to re-use it but that shouldn't be necessary.

toxic-evo

iTrader: (12)

can some one answer the above questions???? is this the right way?? 15 4 and 12???

timmiii

iTrader: (3)

I don't think that's correct as it was intended to be 12 to 9 in the original picture at least that's what I did.

timmiii

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the input. So far I haven't been smelling much gas hopefully it'll stay that way for a while.

charlie.tunah

iTrader: (7)

does anyone have any more descrete ways of finishing the uninstall? Just curious if anyone has came up with a good way to hide any of the leftover capped stuff...

DSMdynamic

iTrader: (38)

I'm wondering this also. I'd like a better way to hide the leftover connecting clips.

fostytou

iTrader: (15)

If you wanted to go permanent you could always JB weld / epoxy / weld the leftover ports and/or shave them. Obviously you gotta take the IM off for this because shavings will make their way in if you don't. Also, these ports are useful for other things that require vacuum.

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

Have any Cali folks done this EGR delete and its associated solenoids and lines from the intake and passed visual on a smog check? I don't perceive the shop that did my smog knew enough or looked enough under hood, but then I don't know if they pull up some database of things they need to look for that is car specific.

Like to know to look for this on evo9s, but not on evoXs, etc.

I am considering this mod, because less is more, but wonder about the above, and/or if the NO2 levels will be beyond spec from the sniffer even with a stock cat. Said differently does this EGR functionality engineered in the 9 make a difference for the time of idle and 2500rpm non load test (because of AWD) we do her in CA for the sniffer?

fostytou-As usual great info and organization. If you were just finishing up a build would you go ahead and tap and plug the head outlet, but then install all of the EGR as stock to pass smog, to then remove afterward? or would there be issues with no pressure from the exhaust side once the EGR valve opened?

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

I just completed this today. I wanted to share just a small detail on my install that the passage in the head is not straight. So that depending on how deep you want to go with threads you may go at an angle. In order to ensure that I would have enough threads I tapped the hole slightly at an angle. This way I would be able to cut more threads and the tap would catch for longer.

Here is the hole and you can see its slightly off at an angle to follow the port a bit more/longer.


This is the plug, the same size as page two of this tread (1/8 NPT), I purchased mine at MacFadden tooling, a SoCal store for the hardcore stuff. You can see that the plug has a taper, which also helps since the tapped passage then curves and therefore narrows with respect to the plug.


The finished task.

boostless

iTrader: (21)

Same situation here

fireroasted

iTrader: (3)

I have committed to this delete, and so far I am OK. I have some questions about what some of this stuff actually does in the flow of air pressure and signals from the ECU, but for now I am just trying to figure out why the FPR solenoid can be bypassed.

Can a guru write out a simple If this, then that, else that thing so I can grasp the mechanism of the devices better?

In the OP fostytou notes that you can just run the hose from the rear of the IM to the end of the fuel rail. Why?

This is where my understanding of what triggers what and then what, is weak. Is it that the FPR solenoid doesn't ever trigger. Does it not trigger because of the deletes of the others, or because of the periphery bits that disable EGR?