How-To: EGR Removal VIII/IX (and charcoal/EVAP canister)
Nov 9, 2016, 06:08 PM
#301
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Location: Minnesota
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So I've removed the EGR and am now looking to get the CEL off and turn it off.
Can anyone give a little bit of a detail on exactly what needs to be edited using ECUFlash?
I'm very new to tuning/editing the ROM. Thanks in advance!
Can anyone give a little bit of a detail on exactly what needs to be edited using ECUFlash?
I'm very new to tuning/editing the ROM. Thanks in advance!
Nov 29, 2016, 12:15 AM
#302
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I've read all 301 post, the diy write-up was very well written, although there has been some key questions others members have asked that have gone unanswered... I'd like to re-ask in hope for better understanding
-if doing just the block off plate & capping it's pertaining nipples, is it really necessary to tap/drill the egr port at the head??
Isn't the block off plate already blocking the flow of exhaust gases/fumes to the im? The only spot on the im where I can see super hot exhaust gas is obviously right at the egr port, and that's being blocked by the plate, so it really never reaches the intake runners. Then why go the extra mile to tap/drill the head & also do the block off plate?
-from my understanding, all of these actions concerning the egr can be tuned out / set at a value to not operate as intended. In that case, can any of this be left alone & not delete it and simply just set values on ecu for the egr not to operate?
-if doing just the block off plate & capping it's pertaining nipples, is it really necessary to tap/drill the egr port at the head??
Isn't the block off plate already blocking the flow of exhaust gases/fumes to the im? The only spot on the im where I can see super hot exhaust gas is obviously right at the egr port, and that's being blocked by the plate, so it really never reaches the intake runners. Then why go the extra mile to tap/drill the head & also do the block off plate?
-from my understanding, all of these actions concerning the egr can be tuned out / set at a value to not operate as intended. In that case, can any of this be left alone & not delete it and simply just set values on ecu for the egr not to operate?
Last edited by 2rbolag; Dec 2, 2016 at 02:51 AM.
Dec 2, 2016, 10:00 PM
#304
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Anyone at all?
I've read all 301 post, the diy write-up was very well written, although there has been some key questions others members have asked that have gone unanswered... I'd like to re-ask in hope for better understanding
-if doing just the block off plate & capping it's pertaining nipples, is it really necessary to tap/drill the egr port at the head??
Isn't the block off plate already blocking the flow of exhaust gases/fumes to the im? The only spot on the im where I can see super hot exhaust gas is obviously right at the egr port, and that's being blocked by the plate, so it really never reaches the intake runners. Then why go the extra mile to tap/drill the head & also do the block off plate?
-from my understanding, all of these actions concerning the egr can be tuned out / set at a value to not operate as intended. In that case, can any of this be left alone & not delete it and simply just set values on ecu for the egr not to operate?
-if doing just the block off plate & capping it's pertaining nipples, is it really necessary to tap/drill the egr port at the head??
Isn't the block off plate already blocking the flow of exhaust gases/fumes to the im? The only spot on the im where I can see super hot exhaust gas is obviously right at the egr port, and that's being blocked by the plate, so it really never reaches the intake runners. Then why go the extra mile to tap/drill the head & also do the block off plate?
-from my understanding, all of these actions concerning the egr can be tuned out / set at a value to not operate as intended. In that case, can any of this be left alone & not delete it and simply just set values on ecu for the egr not to operate?
Dec 15, 2016, 11:43 AM
#306
I've read all 301 post, the diy write-up was very well written, although there has been some key questions others members have asked that have gone unanswered... I'd like to re-ask in hope for better understanding
-if doing just the block off plate & capping it's pertaining nipples, is it really necessary to tap/drill the egr port at the head??
Isn't the block off plate already blocking the flow of exhaust gases/fumes to the im? The only spot on the im where I can see super hot exhaust gas is obviously right at the egr port, and that's being blocked by the plate, so it really never reaches the intake runners. Then why go the extra mile to tap/drill the head & also do the block off plate?
-from my understanding, all of these actions concerning the egr can be tuned out / set at a value to not operate as intended. In that case, can any of this be left alone & not delete it and simply just set values on ecu for the egr not to operate?
-if doing just the block off plate & capping it's pertaining nipples, is it really necessary to tap/drill the egr port at the head??
Isn't the block off plate already blocking the flow of exhaust gases/fumes to the im? The only spot on the im where I can see super hot exhaust gas is obviously right at the egr port, and that's being blocked by the plate, so it really never reaches the intake runners. Then why go the extra mile to tap/drill the head & also do the block off plate?
-from my understanding, all of these actions concerning the egr can be tuned out / set at a value to not operate as intended. In that case, can any of this be left alone & not delete it and simply just set values on ecu for the egr not to operate?
For the second question - you can probably disable it enough that it won't function in the ECU, but that doesn't offer the benefits of weight/space/complexity that you are saving and leaves a bunch of air lines that can eventually rot and leak or blow off (which is fairly common). I think on older cars the EGR valve itself (likely the diaphragm) may deteriorate too and cause an undetected leak if everything is disabled and not removed.
Mar 16, 2017, 05:57 PM
#307
So for the basic version of this, I installed the plate with a gasket and some RTV. and capped the two vacuum lines on the very top of the TB. Nothing else I NEED to do correct?
Besides removing pointless extra stuff is there any benefit to removing the extra lines and EVAP solenoid?
Besides removing pointless extra stuff is there any benefit to removing the extra lines and EVAP solenoid?
Apr 3, 2017, 11:18 AM
#308
Newbie
I removed the canister assy. from the car, and looked at the pictures of the hose to the factory breather, before attempting that. Once I pulled the factory breather out I decided there has to be something better. At least a cleaner looking set up.
Yeah I understand it works, but when I saw the factory breather was nothing more than a 1/2" hole in the side of it, I thought well there's nothing to stop anything from going back into it.
So it's off to the parts store. Will pick up a valve cover breather and attach it directly to the vent tube off the fuel tank. Where the tube ends it will place the filter pretty much out of the way, and do as the previous system did, letting it vent, but more importantly prevent anything from entering the system.
Should look better too, rather then a rubber hose to a plastic breather with one of the ports capped off.
Yeah I understand it works, but when I saw the factory breather was nothing more than a 1/2" hole in the side of it, I thought well there's nothing to stop anything from going back into it.
So it's off to the parts store. Will pick up a valve cover breather and attach it directly to the vent tube off the fuel tank. Where the tube ends it will place the filter pretty much out of the way, and do as the previous system did, letting it vent, but more importantly prevent anything from entering the system.
Should look better too, rather then a rubber hose to a plastic breather with one of the ports capped off.
Apr 26, 2017, 10:42 AM
#309
Newbie
The stuff you think of when you're bored.
Today while working on the new intake mods, I got to thinking. After the EGR/canister mod, we have a nice 5/16" steel tube running from front to back and doing nothing. I could remove it, or maybe I can repurpose it.
On our last one I did a one piece line from the diff to the relocated pump in the trunk. Twas not fun at all, one screw up and I'd have had to start all over. And of course once built there was no way to remove it in one piece.
So, why not take the unused line, that's tucked away neatly from the factory, and tie it into the front diff, and make a connection in the rear to go to the relocated pump? WOuld be a nice added bonus to the subject of the thread. I'll take a look at it on Sunday and see if it would work out.
Today while working on the new intake mods, I got to thinking. After the EGR/canister mod, we have a nice 5/16" steel tube running from front to back and doing nothing. I could remove it, or maybe I can repurpose it.
On our last one I did a one piece line from the diff to the relocated pump in the trunk. Twas not fun at all, one screw up and I'd have had to start all over. And of course once built there was no way to remove it in one piece.
So, why not take the unused line, that's tucked away neatly from the factory, and tie it into the front diff, and make a connection in the rear to go to the relocated pump? WOuld be a nice added bonus to the subject of the thread. I'll take a look at it on Sunday and see if it would work out.
May 1, 2017, 10:15 AM
#310
The stuff you think of when you're bored.
Today while working on the new intake mods, I got to thinking. After the EGR/canister mod, we have a nice 5/16" steel tube running from front to back and doing nothing. I could remove it, or maybe I can repurpose it.
On our last one I did a one piece line from the diff to the relocated pump in the trunk. Twas not fun at all, one screw up and I'd have had to start all over. And of course once built there was no way to remove it in one piece.
So, why not take the unused line, that's tucked away neatly from the factory, and tie it into the front diff, and make a connection in the rear to go to the relocated pump? WOuld be a nice added bonus to the subject of the thread. I'll take a look at it on Sunday and see if it would work out.
Today while working on the new intake mods, I got to thinking. After the EGR/canister mod, we have a nice 5/16" steel tube running from front to back and doing nothing. I could remove it, or maybe I can repurpose it.
On our last one I did a one piece line from the diff to the relocated pump in the trunk. Twas not fun at all, one screw up and I'd have had to start all over. And of course once built there was no way to remove it in one piece.
So, why not take the unused line, that's tucked away neatly from the factory, and tie it into the front diff, and make a connection in the rear to go to the relocated pump? WOuld be a nice added bonus to the subject of the thread. I'll take a look at it on Sunday and see if it would work out.
Also just a secondary thought - if the line is bigger I'm not sure it wouldn't change the required duty cycle of the solenoids. That's OK if you are tuning the diff yourself, but it might require some changes to behave exactly the same as the factory lines.
May 2, 2017, 03:57 AM
#311
Newbie
Yep, I will be checking the inside of the pipe, and flushing it out, just in case.
Size wise, it's the same as the factory line, and the same size as the line I originally made.
And yes the diff control is modded for racing, so it's already set up.
But that said, your concerns are appreciated, and are quite true.
Size wise, it's the same as the factory line, and the same size as the line I originally made.
And yes the diff control is modded for racing, so it's already set up.
But that said, your concerns are appreciated, and are quite true.
May 10, 2017, 03:21 AM
#312
Good / New method: Remove everything in this diagram except 15, 4, and 12. connect 4 and 12 with a 17mm barrel (one is 16.5mm and one is 17.5mm). Cap the hose for connection #3 with a 12mm cap. Note that if you do not do this there will be limited access to your fuel system via connection 2.
Bad / OLD method: Remove all of this diagram after hose #7, and plug hose #7 with the check valve from the front of the car.
Optional: Remove the hard line (#7) that runs from the rear of the car to the front of the car. Note: you will have to un-bolt the fuel brakets along the underside of the car and the line does not weigh very much.
Optional: The check valve might be useful if you will be removing the charcoal canister as it will allow vapors out while letting nothing back into the fuel system (at connection #2 above). Unfortunately it is much smaller then this connection and the valve may become stuck closed and clogged if left open to air in a dirty environment, but this may be better than whatever clogged it having limited access to your fuel system. Please note the check valve is represented backwards in the image shown above, as well as some of the other FSM diagrams.
Bad / OLD method: Remove all of this diagram after hose #7, and plug hose #7 with the check valve from the front of the car.
Optional: Remove the hard line (#7) that runs from the rear of the car to the front of the car. Note: you will have to un-bolt the fuel brakets along the underside of the car and the line does not weigh very much.
Optional: The check valve might be useful if you will be removing the charcoal canister as it will allow vapors out while letting nothing back into the fuel system (at connection #2 above). Unfortunately it is much smaller then this connection and the valve may become stuck closed and clogged if left open to air in a dirty environment, but this may be better than whatever clogged it having limited access to your fuel system. Please note the check valve is represented backwards in the image shown above, as well as some of the other FSM diagrams.
Since it looks like in the photo, both 11 and 12 connect as an input to the charcoal box, and 7 exits into connection 9(solenoid), which is connected to an over glorified air filter(Numbered 8), which then has two exits (3 and 4) which connect to 15.
Why can't I put a check valve in connection 11 and 12, and then tie them both together and input them both into connection 9(solenoid) and then utilize the over glorified air filter(Unit 8) as normal? I am trying to keep the EGR for fuel economy, and just want to ditch the charcoal canister. My EGR is tuned with everything else. This keeps the periphery bits and ecu settings close to stock on the setup allowing the purge valve to work, of which, I have the ability to tune as well. Just wish to ditch the charcoal like I said.
Fostytou, any comments?
Last edited by Raceghost; May 10, 2017 at 10:01 PM.
May 15, 2017, 10:15 PM
#314
Thanks for doing a write-up!
I don't know if I'd be honest. Its been about 8 years since I had to do one and I can't remember the directional flow of all of the pieces. I may be wrong but I believe #8 is more of a multi way check valve and all of the charcoal/filtering happens in #13. I'm sure there's a reason all of the hoses flow between each unit, I'm just not remembering the directional flow and how the solenoids and check valves all interact at this point.
I don't know if I'd be honest. Its been about 8 years since I had to do one and I can't remember the directional flow of all of the pieces. I may be wrong but I believe #8 is more of a multi way check valve and all of the charcoal/filtering happens in #13. I'm sure there's a reason all of the hoses flow between each unit, I'm just not remembering the directional flow and how the solenoids and check valves all interact at this point.
May 16, 2017, 10:56 PM
#315
Bump, updated my write up. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11738358
I figured out flow, now just need to tune the purge solenoid/valve for more pressure, and needing longer opening of that valve.
I figured out flow, now just need to tune the purge solenoid/valve for more pressure, and needing longer opening of that valve.