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How-To: EGR Removal VIII/IX (and charcoal/EVAP canister)

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Old Jun 4, 2017, 06:02 PM
  #316  
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For those in the future that decide to plug the port in the head, I found the 1/8 plug to be small and goes in about an inch into the head and doesn't feel secure. After trying multiple size plugs, I used a 7/16 tap and screw, I would recommend using this size plug and not the 1/8th.
Old Jun 5, 2017, 03:53 AM
  #317  
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Yeah it seems there may be variances in the size, on our 2nd 2006 MR the port was tapped for the 1/8" plug, and it was just fine. But I remember reading that someone else ended up using a 12mm plug because of the hole size.
Old Jul 27, 2017, 01:57 PM
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Help

Can I just go to step 6 and be done with it? And finish the rest in the ecu and be good? Just cap the two hoses on the throttle body, install the block off plate and leave everything else in place?
Old Oct 10, 2018, 07:47 AM
  #319  
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Does the head need to come off to plug the port on the head? Can it stay on the car with just the intake manifold off to plug it?
Old Oct 10, 2018, 10:08 AM
  #320  
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Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts
Does the head need to come off to plug the port on the head? Can it stay on the car with just the intake manifold off to plug it?

The funny part about that port is that one side is actually a hole that leads to the #4 exhaust port IIRC. You don't need to remove the head, but just make sure you vacuum out the metal shavings from drilling and tapping for a plug very well. it will be very difficult to get a drill back there with the head on the car and you'll have to use a different style tapping handle so that it clears everything in the way. A good drill bit will pull material out of the cylinder head and keep it from entering the exhaust port, which could eventually hit the hot side of your turbo (assuming those parts are even installed). You may not even need to drill to be honest.
Old Oct 10, 2018, 10:52 AM
  #321  
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Originally Posted by Pal215
The funny part about that port is that one side is actually a hole that leads to the #4 exhaust port IIRC. You don't need to remove the head, but just make sure you vacuum out the metal shavings from drilling and tapping for a plug very well. it will be very difficult to get a drill back there with the head on the car and you'll have to use a different style tapping handle so that it clears everything in the way. A good drill bit will pull material out of the cylinder head and keep it from entering the exhaust port, which could eventually hit the hot side of your turbo (assuming those parts are even installed). You may not even need to drill to be honest.
Thanks for the response! I'm assuming you just using something like this then ?
Old Oct 10, 2018, 02:08 PM
  #322  
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Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts
Thanks for the response! I'm assuming you just using something like this then ?
Np! Exactly, NPT is best. I actually didn't even have an NPT plug at the time so i used a standard thread with thread sealant and torqued the hell out of it. It seems to have been working so far.



Old Oct 19, 2018, 05:08 AM
  #323  
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How tight does the plug have to be into the head? I put mine in and fingered tight it with red loctite(not sure if the loctite will hold to how hot the egr gasses can get). I wasn't sure if you need to crank it super hard in the head, was scared to stripe or damage the thread tap I did.
Old Oct 24, 2018, 10:14 PM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts
How tight does the plug have to be into the head? I put mine in and fingered tight it with red loctite(not sure if the loctite will hold to how hot the egr gasses can get). I wasn't sure if you need to crank it super hard in the head, was scared to stripe or damage the thread tap I did.

It has been a while but if I recall correctly the plug can't really go anywhere due to the intake manifold inlet size or bend radius. I'd compare the hole sizes and the radius and see if you think it could be a problem if it backs out.

That said I'd think firm is fine, but that is pretty open to interpretation.
Old Sep 4, 2019, 01:51 PM
  #325  
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Finally did mines today. Finding a 7/16 -14 tap was a pain. I used the extra strength red loc tight.

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Old Nov 6, 2019, 06:26 PM
  #326  
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To all that have removed the charcoal canister. Did you install a check valve? If so what did you use?

if no check valve... any I’ll effects?


thanks
Old Nov 7, 2019, 09:57 PM
  #327  
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Originally Posted by dookgvr4
To all that have removed the charcoal canister. Did you install a check valve? If so what did you use?

if no check valve... any I’ll effects?


thanks
In my previous Evo 9 I did not use a check valve. I just tucked the hose away from direct path of debre/water splash . But since you asked, a check valve doesn’t sound like a bad idea. Something with a very light cracking pressure. But what happens if the check valve fails? I guess maybe the gas cap has its own relief valve for gasses to escape .
Old Nov 8, 2019, 05:34 PM
  #328  
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Originally Posted by BluEVOIX
In my previous Evo 9 I did not use a check valve. I just tucked the hose away from direct path of debre/water splash . But since you asked, a check valve doesn’t sound like a bad idea. Something with a very light cracking pressure. But what happens if the check valve fails? I guess maybe the gas cap has its own relief valve for gasses to escape .

thanks

yes these are the same questions I had

i am just worried about the possibility of excess moisture in the tank due to running e85

Last edited by dookgvr4; Nov 8, 2019 at 05:50 PM.
Old Dec 29, 2020, 07:26 PM
  #329  
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I deleted the EGR and disabled in the ECU using the byte length value "EGR system Enable / Disable" set to 0 but I am still throwing a P0403 code. Should I also set FCA bit 9 to 0 as well to disable the EGR test. I thought this was unnecessary if the test was disabled using the byte length value? ECU is on 88590015 ROM. Any help appreciated. Thanks.
Old Nov 15, 2021, 12:08 PM
  #330  
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what does part #15 do?


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