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How-To: EGR Removal VIII/IX (and charcoal/EVAP canister)

 
Old Jun 4, 2017, 06:02 PM
  #316  
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For those in the future that decide to plug the port in the head, I found the 1/8 plug to be small and goes in about an inch into the head and doesn't feel secure. After trying multiple size plugs, I used a 7/16 tap and screw, I would recommend using this size plug and not the 1/8th.
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Old Jun 5, 2017, 03:53 AM
  #317  
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Yeah it seems there may be variances in the size, on our 2nd 2006 MR the port was tapped for the 1/8" plug, and it was just fine. But I remember reading that someone else ended up using a 12mm plug because of the hole size.
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Old Jul 27, 2017, 01:57 PM
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Help

Can I just go to step 6 and be done with it? And finish the rest in the ecu and be good? Just cap the two hoses on the throttle body, install the block off plate and leave everything else in place?
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Old Oct 10, 2018, 07:47 AM
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Does the head need to come off to plug the port on the head? Can it stay on the car with just the intake manifold off to plug it?
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Old Oct 10, 2018, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts View Post
Does the head need to come off to plug the port on the head? Can it stay on the car with just the intake manifold off to plug it?

The funny part about that port is that one side is actually a hole that leads to the #4 exhaust port IIRC. You don't need to remove the head, but just make sure you vacuum out the metal shavings from drilling and tapping for a plug very well. it will be very difficult to get a drill back there with the head on the car and you'll have to use a different style tapping handle so that it clears everything in the way. A good drill bit will pull material out of the cylinder head and keep it from entering the exhaust port, which could eventually hit the hot side of your turbo (assuming those parts are even installed). You may not even need to drill to be honest.
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Old Oct 10, 2018, 10:52 AM
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Originally Posted by Pal215 View Post
The funny part about that port is that one side is actually a hole that leads to the #4 exhaust port IIRC. You don't need to remove the head, but just make sure you vacuum out the metal shavings from drilling and tapping for a plug very well. it will be very difficult to get a drill back there with the head on the car and you'll have to use a different style tapping handle so that it clears everything in the way. A good drill bit will pull material out of the cylinder head and keep it from entering the exhaust port, which could eventually hit the hot side of your turbo (assuming those parts are even installed). You may not even need to drill to be honest.
Thanks for the response! I'm assuming you just using something like this then ?
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Old Oct 10, 2018, 02:08 PM
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Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts View Post
Thanks for the response! I'm assuming you just using something like this then ?
Np! Exactly, NPT is best. I actually didn't even have an NPT plug at the time so i used a standard thread with thread sealant and torqued the hell out of it. It seems to have been working so far.



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Old Oct 19, 2018, 05:08 AM
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How tight does the plug have to be into the head? I put mine in and fingered tight it with red loctite(not sure if the loctite will hold to how hot the egr gasses can get). I wasn't sure if you need to crank it super hard in the head, was scared to stripe or damage the thread tap I did.
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Old Oct 24, 2018, 10:14 PM
  #324  
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Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts View Post
How tight does the plug have to be into the head? I put mine in and fingered tight it with red loctite(not sure if the loctite will hold to how hot the egr gasses can get). I wasn't sure if you need to crank it super hard in the head, was scared to stripe or damage the thread tap I did.

It has been a while but if I recall correctly the plug can't really go anywhere due to the intake manifold inlet size or bend radius. I'd compare the hole sizes and the radius and see if you think it could be a problem if it backs out.

That said I'd think firm is fine, but that is pretty open to interpretation.
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