Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

it was high temp loctite.

evolancer04

iTrader: (8)

cool, thanks

EGbeater

iTrader: (35)

High temp loctite (PST 592) is only rated to 400 degrees. I doubt it is doing much after the first hour of starting the car.

Even a high-temp RTV is only rated to 650 degrees, intermittent:

http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81409.../dp/B000HBIB80

If you're really worried about it leaking:

http://www.deaconindustries.com/products.html

Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

Deacon products sound Luke the business

evolancer04

iTrader: (8)

looks like a good idea but to bad it is not sold to the general public

Slayaaah

Would it be possible/worth the effort to just buy a block plate between the EGR valve and the intake? If so, do I need to get a tune or anything to not throw a CEL or risk any lean/rich spots?

I drive my Evo mostly on highways so I bet it throws some serious amount of exhaust gases into my intake

Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

^ best way to block egr is to plug the hole in the head. Putting a plate only allows you to remove the egr. THe exhaust gases still have a port to rich the intake manifold.

EGbeater

iTrader: (35)

This isn't entirely true... with a plate where the EGR used to be, you can block off the gases from reaching IM plenum, because there's two sides of the port - one side where the gases come from the head, and another where those gases are routed to the plenum after the TB.

BUT, you'll still be unnecessarily heating up the bottom of the IM (the port runs under the #4 runner), and as you can see from the picture of my DIY blockoff plate and OEM gasket, the hot gases actually corroded/ate away the edge of the OEM gasket on the "hot" side after only a few thousand miles, because of the heat of the EGR gases getting bottled up there. So it's not a good idea to just install the plate:



The right side of the gasket is the side of the EGR port the gases come to from the head; the left (undamaged) side is the outlet up the IM/throttle body area.

Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

Maybe you're right. But, you'll still be heating up the IM and defeating the real purpose. Plug and plate need to be done for proper egr disabling.

EGbeater

iTrader: (35)

Agreed. I've since installed the 1/8" NPT allen-head plug in my head (conveniently, I melted a piston , so the head had to come off anyway).

Took me a while to find that hardware (all Home Depot had was a square-head 1/8" NPT plug, which I didn't see how to drive far enough into the EGR port)... eventually, I got a hold of them through a local Fastenal store (not the closest one to my house, but driving to a farther-away store was still way cheaper than ordering it through McMaster-Carr). They're only about 30 cents each at Fastenal, IIRC.

Evoryder

iTrader: (55)

I got my plug from Jegs

turbo dragon

iTrader: (1)

this is awesome Ill be doing this, this winter. after removing everything do you have to change the data in the computer or get tuned right of way

mchristian

iTrader: (15)

Just finishing up w/the EGR delete mod...will it be OK for me to drive the car 140 miles to AWD motorsports for a new tune?
Or will the car run like **** and have issues before the ECU is modified?

I removed all EGR components, charcoal canister, FPR solenoid, plugged hole in head and installed EGR block-off plate, Magnus IM heat barrier gasket, and had IM & EM ported by Buschur.

Just wondering if anyone knows if I can drive the car to the tuner before the ECU codes are modified to disable the EGR & FPR, etc or must the car be towed?

Thanks

neilm

iTrader: (1)

iv been driving mine with out the ecu mod just dont floor it, keep off boost if it needs a map

mchristian

iTrader: (15)

Thanks to everyone that has contributed on this topic...finished the mod and love the results!
I found that the hole in the head was easy to tap...
I used a slightly larger tap and plug than was suggested.
Here are the parts I used to do the job.