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Dropped the diff recently to re-stack the clutch plates and add the mustache bar bushings. Just wanted to reiterate the simplicity of the easy way to drop the diff because this thread helped me out.
The only sort of pry bar I had available was a pickle fork, but it worked very well for popping the axles loose. Once I get this all back together and add the re-flashed ACD computer I will have an update. Thanks for the writeup
Last edited by Hookah Bazooka; Jul 12, 2017 at 10:41 AM.
I just completed the rear diff swap to a MaxLock rear diff. The process took me about 5 hours on my garage floor. I pulled the exhaust, rear coilovers and sway bar to give me more room to work and I wasn't in a rush.
I do believe anyone can perform this work as this thread is very helpful. There is also a video on youtube that shows it step by step and the will help clarify what to do.
The worst part about this job is dealing with the stench of the diaqueen.
I just completed the rear diff swap to a MaxLock rear diff. The process took me about 5 hours on my garage floor. I pulled the exhaust, rear coilovers and sway bar to give me more room to work and I wasn't in a rush.
I do believe anyone can perform this work as this thread is very helpful. There is also a video on youtube that shows it step by step and the will help clarify what to do.
The worst part about this job is dealing with the stench of the diaqueen.
this the video? doesn't seem like anything i can't do, but as far as "want" to do - jeez, no way.
re: reconnecting the driveshaft bolts the same direction same way, any ideas on why this matters?
I believe that's the video he's referencing. CZero has a bunch of other helpful videos as well.
If Mitsubishi balanced everything with the rear diff connected, then it would be wise to install everything the exact same way. My understanding is that just the driveshaft is balanced, excluding the bolts. I used a paint pen to mark the driveshaft in relation to the diff, but didn't bother with matching the exact bolts up, just made sure they were facing the same direction.
I believe that's the video he's referencing. CZero has a bunch of other helpful videos as well.
If Mitsubishi balanced everything with the rear diff connected, then it would be wise to install everything the exact same way. My understanding is that just the driveshaft is balanced, excluding the bolts. I used a paint pen to mark the driveshaft in relation to the diff, but didn't bother with matching the exact bolts up, just made sure they were facing the same direction.
No need to index the drive shaft, it is balanced independently. I would advise cleanliness of the mating surfaces tho. Also use the original bolts they are higher grade than most chassis bolts on the vehicle.
I believe that's the video he's referencing. CZero has a bunch of other helpful videos as well.
If Mitsubishi balanced everything with the rear diff connected, then it would be wise to install everything the exact same way. My understanding is that just the driveshaft is balanced, excluding the bolts. I used a paint pen to mark the driveshaft in relation to the diff, but didn't bother with matching the exact bolts up, just made sure they were facing the same direction.
got it... i think i prefer how the, drop the rear bar and lower diff method a lot better...
I tired this last week and it didn't work out for me. Not enough flex to pull the axle out while lowering.
Your car probably was not high enough in the air then as there is enough room to pull them out. You drop it down and sorta swing it to one side to get one out followed by the other side.
Your car probably was not high enough in the air then as there is enough room to pull them out. You drop it down and sorta swing it to one side to get one out followed by the other side.
luckily my car will be up pretty darn high to do this!
Originally Posted by CaptainSquirts
I did this a couple weeks ago and got the axles to have enough room to come out of the rear diff when lowering it.
how did you "get the axles to have enough room"? or were you just saying that there was enough room doing this?
I jacked the car up, popped the axles out, undid everything that had to come off to have the rear diff free. I put a jack under the rear diff, lowered it. You will have to angle it/position it around to get one end out, and then the other end you will come out as well.
I actually had a pic of it in the process of being dropped, dunno if it will give you any ideas but was super easy.
nah just curious if you did anything special to get those out. how much of a ***** is it to get the axles/splines aligned to go back in?
I've never had any issues trying to get axles splines back in. Just slide the axle in and push. It'll just click into place, really easy. Hopefully when I install my transmission it'll be as easy as the axles....
Jul 11, 2017, 07:41 PM
