rgonyer

iTrader: (16)

I've started the process of removing my ACD TC on my IX MR. So far it's going fine, I've been taking my time since it's my first time. I do have a few questions:

1. The instructions at the beginning of this thread say you don't have to remove your driver side axel, but a couple posts down, they say you do. Which is it?

2. The ACD video shows the guy prying the engine forward so he can sneak the TC off. Wouldn't it be easier/safer to just remove the suspension cradle all together? I mean you already have all 6 bolts out. Or is it too hard to get the engine mount bolt out?

3. What about the ACD fluid and lines? I didn't see that addressed..... but maybe I missed it?

Thanks for helping a newb...

rgonyer

iTrader: (16)

Oh and one more - is there any reason you can't just take the whole suspension cradle out rather than just 'lowering' it and prying everything forward?

project_skyline

iTrader: (30)

I'm not sure why you guys remove the strut when you could just take the ball joint bolt off and pull the lower control arm. Less work and then you don't need an alignment.

Also IIRC you don't need to remove the rotors to take the axle nut off.

And removing the suspension cradle is not a good idea because you got to take a lot more stuff off. You can jack up the steering column and pull it outta the input on the inside of the car.

meek automotive

How about our way?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DH5h0uKkKC8

dmitirygolos

iTrader: (5)

thanks helpful tread

850RCT9A

iTrader: (14)

anyone know the part numbers to the 6 bolts for the transfer case??

ta ace

iTrader: (22)

this would have been amazing last night when we pulled my motor

lol

johno

iTrader: (5)

That is cool but i just move the strut out of the way with my hand and slide hammer it out and im done. Very cool tool how much are they.

Sinbig

iTrader: (5)

Gotta disconnect the acd line connected to the tc also. 17mm I think. I sucked out as much ATF from the reservoir first then let the rest drain from the line into a cup. Also breaking the castle nut is damn near impossible without an impact gun, I got the rest broke with just a cheater bar. All this for a damn leaking seal.

marcusE

iTrader: (20)

How many inches does the cradle have to move out of the way?? I CANNOT get the LCA hole 19mm nut on the driver side to unthread completely and its stuck.. I can push the cradle up and down about an inch..

U.P. Evo8

iTrader: (1)

I couldn't budge the 19mm bolts on my cradle, I was working in below freezing temps and didn't want to snap one of those buggers, so l left the cradle in. I did this job on jack stands, and by jacking up the engine 'til the car started to lift, I had enough room to get the t-case out.

marcusE

iTrader: (20)

So you jacked the engine up at what part exactly? I'm going to go try this and see..


Thanks for that It's giving me some motivation ....


Check out my thread on engine/turbo/drivetrain u can see what is going on.

U.P. Evo8

iTrader: (1)

I jacked it up where the engine and tranny meet. Good luck.

dookgvr4

iTrader: (14)

So if I intend to remove the transmission and the transfer case, what is the order of operations?

Tranny first? Or t-case?

If I remove tranny first does it make t-case removal easier?